A couple of pratice welds..

[225]

I am working on a teardrop trailer. And before I actually started trying to build a trailer chassis for it, I have been doing some test ones.

I am very new to TIG welding. Maybe a hour seat time. I am using a 200DX with a CK130 torch. 3/32" rod, 1/16" tungsten, and running at about 95 max amps, #8 cup.

Corner:


Butt // T joint. The funk is from my gloves. I wiped it when it was still hot.

[posixPilot]

You might want to try 3/32" tungsten ... I kept destroying my 1/16" pretty quickly at about 80 amps and above. Not sure if you had that issue.

How do you like the CK130? I'm definitely getting tired of my stock torch, and looking at the CK line pretty closely.

Thanks
Mike

[225]

I would def buy the CK130. It feels like I am holding a pencil. The the flex cord is awesome. My welding has improved so much by using it.

I haven't had any trouble blowing up tungsten's yet. But I do have a 3/32, I will try.

[225]

Here is the difference in size:

[posixPilot]

Yeah, that is a nice looking torch ... zozama's thread pretty much sold me on it as well.

I have the same stock torch (a WP18, I think?), and I've been using the pencil grip on the torch body, with the index finger on the torch switch. But I notice that you went from a rigid neck, to a flex neck. With the flex neck, do you have to grab the torch head, or can you still use the torch body/handle? I can't stand the stock torch, as it seems like I'm always fighting to keep the torch rotated at the correct angle. With the pencil grip, you really don't have much to hold on to while keeping the right angle.

Thanks
Mike

[225]

Yeah, that is a nice looking torch ... zozama's thread pretty much sold me on it as well.

I have the same stock torch (a WP18, I think?), and I've been using the pencil grip on the torch body, with the index finger on the torch switch. But I notice that you went from a rigid neck, to a flex neck. With the flex neck, do you have to grab the torch head, or can you still use the torch body/handle? I can't stand the stock torch, as it seems like I'm always fighting to keep the torch rotated at the correct angle. With the pencil grip, you really don't have much to hold on to while keeping the right angle.

Thanks
Mike

I hold the handle. But the flex head is so awesome. I thought I wouldn't use it, but I do all the time.

[posixPilot]

Ok, I was worried that you were forced to hold the torch by the head to control the flex. It sounds more like you bend the head to your desired angle, and the flex is rigid enough to generally retain that position (like a bus driver's microphone).

Thanks (and sorry to steal your thread )
Mike

[zoama]

Ok, I was worried that you were forced to hold the torch by the head to control the flex. It sounds more like you bend the head to your desired angle, and the flex is rigid enough to generally retain that position (like a bus driver's microphone).

Thanks (and sorry to steal your thread )
Mike

It stays where you bend it like a thick wall soft copper tube.

[jakeru]

225 - that is a remarkable result for only an hour of practice. Looks like you were using a good torch angle, and didn't try to add the filler rod too early. A little extra filler would make a bit sounder structural weld.

You might want to try 3/32" tungsten ... I kept destroying my 1/16" pretty quickly at about 80 amps and above. Not sure if you had that issue.

How do you like the CK130? I'm definitely getting tired of my stock torch, and looking at the CK line pretty closely.

Consider the CK TL-210. Here a picture of mine after I first got it set up. (I have since added an on/off trigger switch and cable sleeve.) The "stubby gas lens" shown also complements it very well. People who think you "need" watercooled, I think have just never discovered this torch...

[KSmith]

225 - that is a remarkable result for only an hour of practice. Looks like you were using a good torch angle, and didn't try to add the filler rod too early. A little extra filler would make a bit sounder structural weld.



Consider the CK TL-210. Here a picture of mine after I first got it set up. (I have since added an on/off trigger switch and cable sleeve.) The "stubby gas lens" shown also complements it very well. People who think you "need" watercooled, I think have just never discovered this torch...

I have been wanting to adapt one of the CK torches and rotary amperage adjustment to my 3-in-1 chinese built unit. I uses a 7pin interface. I wonder if CK has that sort of adaptation?

ken

[posixPilot]

It stays where you bend it like a thick wall soft copper tube.

Cool, thanks Zoama. Did I read somewhere that you ran your CK130 safely up to 150A DC?

Consider the CK TL-210. Here a picture of mine after I first got it set up. (I have since added an on/off trigger switch and cable sleeve.) The "stubby gas lens" shown also complements it very well.

I'm going to take a close look at the line before I decide, but I don't foresee my self needing that many amps very often. If I do, I'll just swap back to my water cooled, stock torch. I really want to get a super light torch.

Thanks
Mike

[zoama]

Cool, thanks Zoama. Did I read somewhere that you ran your CK130 safely up to 150A DC?
Thanks
Mike

AC or DC... the torch is rated 130amp 100% duty cycle in both ac/dc. I use it up to 150amp in both ac/dc @ 60% duty cycle.

[5440]

I am working on a teardrop trailer. And before I actually started trying to build a trailer chassis for it, I have been doing some test ones.

I am very new to TIG welding. Maybe a hour seat time. I am using a 200DX with a CK130 torch. 3/32" rod, 1/16" tungsten, and running at about 95 max amps, #8 cup.

Corner:


Butt // T joint. The funk is from my gloves. I wiped it when it was still hot.

Decent welds for first time TIG. Always good to practice on some scrap. It looks like you have some undercutting from too much heat that will develope cracks under stress. Been there done that on a truck frame.

[fdcmiami]

i'm not sure where using the 1/16th tungsten got started but the fact is you can do 90 percent of your tig welding with a 3/32. i am split even between those and 1/8th; rarely do i need a tungsten smaller than 3/32.

[225]

i'm not sure where using the 1/16th tungsten got started but the fact is you can do 90 percent of your tig welding with a 3/32. i am split even between those and 1/8th; rarely do i need a tungsten smaller than 3/32.

I am about to go to a 3/32. A buddy that is a pro told me to go to it also. He said it controls the heat better, etc...

[Rodsmachineshop]

same here 3/32 and 1/8 never really use the smaller tungsten

[Trip59]

same here 3/32 and 1/8 never really use the smaller tungsten

Let me ask though, for welding what?

90% of what I'll be Tigging will be under 1/8, probably 75% of that 16ga or less. All the charts and calculators told me 1/16"

[Rodsmachineshop]

everthing from aluminum exhaust manifolds to intake manifolds and pontoons on pontoon boats. if welding thin stuff i just grind the 1/8 to a nice point . I weld mostly dirty aluminum so use the 1/8 since using high balance when welding smaller tungsten burns up

[Rambozo]

Let me ask though, for welding what?

90% of what I'll be Tigging will be under 1/8, probably 75% of that 16ga or less. All the charts and calculators told me 1/16"

For steel that would be fine. For aluminum you will want to go larger. Also it can depend on the torch, a water cooled one can wring a little bit more out of a small tungsten. For sheet metal I like a 1/16" in a WP-20 torch. However, that CK Flex-loc has me thinking about a change.

[Rodsmachineshop]

same here think the CK flex is the perfect torch for what i weld