A81 Torch Damage

[Rectified]

Exciting
second time I used this torch.

[everlastsupport]

Do you have a dryer on your compressor line? Did you set the air pressure with the tube and ball meter?

You can contact our sales group and order another containing nozzle and stand-off, but you will want to figure out the problem before using the new one. I would change consumables. What size compressor motor and tank are you using?

[geezer]

Kinda reminds me of a fellow moving too fast on the cut,,,thereby having it splash back up into the torch,,instead of cutting. Been there, done that myself..

[everlastsupport]

Kinda reminds me of a fellow moving too fast on the cut,,,thereby having it splash back up into the torch,,instead of cutting. Been there, done that myself..

Ditto. Done that as well with the A81 no less. And when you get in some corners and angle and can not reach.

[undercut]

No different than diagnosing a car engine problem, computer problem or electrical problem ... you ALWAYS need to know when the last time it worked, how did it behave then, if anything changed since that time, what (exactly) steps you were doing when you encountered the difficulty, how does the behavior now differ from the last time it worked. It really does aid those trying to help you.

Actually, the above came from the IT department where I worked. It's really universally applicable to anything that goes wrong.

[performance]

It appears to be a water/technique related issue. Or it could be oil in the line as well. When you see those black swirls on the consumable, that is an indicator of water/oil in the line. You MUST have a separate filter in line. The water trap is there to trap large slugs of water and debris, not to dry the air. The melting is from excessive heat on the torch head, which could have something to do with technique, especially if you are piercing a lot and blowback is coming from the surface. The melted standoff, would point to that as well. This is the only thing I can think of that would cause this UNLESS the pilot arc isn't transferring and you are only making a slight mark in the top of the metal.

[redbeard]

The melted standoff, would point to that as well. This is the only thing I can think of that would cause this UNLESS the pilot arc isn't transferring and you are only making a slight mark in the top of the metal.

Would the pilot arc really have the balls to do that to the cup and standoff?

First thought I had was piercing or technique as well. I know when I first got mine, I just wanted to see what 60A would do to a 1" piece of metal, to hell with practicing on thin stuff first.

[performance]

Would the pilot arc really have the balls to do that to the cup and standoff?

First thought I had was piercing or technique as well. I know when I first got mine, I just wanted to see what 60A would do to a 1" piece of metal, to hell with practicing on thin stuff first.

Sure it would. The pilot arc is still 20+ amps and around 10,000 degrees. I've known guys to cut 1/8" metal or more with it. If it's moving too fast or the work clamp isn't making good connection the flame would spread out instead of down, on thick metal, blowing molten metal everywhere.

[Rectified]

No I do not have a dryer on my compressor line and will install a dessicant chamber or some other means to a solution. I did not set the air pressure with the tube and ball. I will contact sales for another containing nozzle but not for a stand off, it is not what I would prefer to use. The compressor is a cheapo 2 gal harbor frieght pancake noise maker. I think somehow the sound waves this compressor puts out compresses the air.

Do you have a dryer on your compressor line? Did you set the air pressure with the tube and ball meter?

You can contact our sales group and order another containing nozzle and stand-off, but you will want to figure out the problem before using the new one. I would change consumables. What size compressor motor and tank are you using?

[Rectified]

I move as fast as it will cut. Sparks fill the air like the Fourth! haha

Kinda reminds me of a fellow moving too fast on the cut,,,thereby having it splash back up into the torch,,instead of cutting. Been there, done that myself..

[Rectified]

Here is another good saying, "You cannot troubleshoot a woman."

No different than diagnosing a car engine problem, computer problem or electrical problem ... you ALWAYS need to know when the last time it worked, how did it behave then, if anything changed since that time, what (exactly) steps you were doing when you encountered the difficulty, how does the behavior now differ from the last time it worked. It really does aid those trying to help you.

Actually, the above came from the IT department where I worked. It's really universally applicable to anything that goes wrong.

[Rectified]

Im sure it is all of the above except the pilot arc. That seems fine. I do hear a little zap when I first turn the machine on coming from inside the case. That is off topic. I pretty much set up like the book says to, pull the trigger in the air make sure a rainbow blasts out, and set the guide to the work pierce and go.

It appears to be a water/technique related issue. Or it could be oil in the line as well. When you see those black swirls on the consumable, that is an indicator of water/oil in the line. You MUST have a separate filter in line. The water trap is there to trap large slugs of water and debris, not to dry the air. The melting is from excessive heat on the torch head, which could have something to do with technique, especially if you are piercing a lot and blowback is coming from the surface. The melted standoff, would point to that as well. This is the only thing I can think of that would cause this UNLESS the pilot arc isn't transferring and you are only making a slight mark in the top of the metal.

[Rectified]

This was one cut of a car hood about 1'x 1' needed a chunk to match the paint up with another hood. As I was coming around with the torch the stand off rotated on the containing nozzle and a slurry of sparks hit it.

Would the pilot arc really have the balls to do that to the cup and standoff?

First thought I had was piercing or technique as well. I know when I first got mine, I just wanted to see what 60A would do to a 1" piece of metal, to hell with practicing on thin stuff first.

[Rectified]

Too all, Thank you for looking at this and adding your insight. I believe we can write this damage off as operator inexperience, a failure to follow guidelines and to top it off a cheapo air compressor. The project was to cut a 1'x1' section of a car hood to match paint with another hood. Project was a success.

[performance]

It will happen again, unless you get a bigger compressor. Things are beginning to make sense now. There's no way that the compressor can come close to supplying the volume or the pressure you need during actual use. This is a 60 amp cutter, and you'll need somewhere around 5-6 cfm @ 90 psi, and about a 25-30 gallon reserve at a minimum.

[everlastsupport]

No I do not have a dryer on my compressor line and will install a dessicant chamber or some other means to a solution. I did not set the air pressure with the tube and ball. I will contact sales for another containing nozzle but not for a stand off, it is not what I would prefer to use. The compressor is a cheapo 2 gal harbor frieght pancake noise maker. I think somehow the sound waves this compressor puts out compresses the air.

They are noise makers for sure. You will need a larger compressor for sure. The next size up at HF is a 30 gallon I think and should provide the volume you need. Also for $8 you can pick up a good little dryer and be back in business.

[Rectified]

What do you think about this compressor as a choice? 5.5 scfm at 90psi http://www.sears.com/ingersoll-rand-...1&blockType=G1

It will happen again, unless you get a bigger compressor. Things are beginning to make sense now. There's no way that the compressor can come close to supplying the volume or the pressure you need during actual use. This is a 60 amp cutter, and you'll need somewhere around 5-6 cfm @ 90 psi, and about a 25-30 gallon reserve at a minimum.

[Rodsmachineshop]

for a couple of bucks more can get this one from lows http://www.lowes.com/pd_54284-1126-V...roduct_price|1 plus has a 3 year warranty the sears only has a 1 year warranty

[Brian Ski]

What do you think about this compressor as a choice? 5.5 scfm at 90psi http://www.sears.com/ingersoll-rand-...1&blockType=G1

for a couple of bucks more can get this one from lows http://www.lowes.com/pd_54284-1126-V...roduct_price|1 plus has a 3 year warranty the sears only has a 1 year warranty

The one from Sears would do it. Ingersol Rand is a good name and has good reviews. The one Rod shows for a few dollars more has 11 CFM at 90 psi. Twice the compressor. But it requires 220. You will never regret getting a bigger compressor. Ever think about sand blasting?? Even small stuff requires a lot of air. Surprised how much air you need with a D/A sander or a spray gun.

[performance]

This is the one I personally recommend, as I have one of these, and it will work. Most people face the dilemma of having enough 240V outlets. This compressor is 120V and meets the size requirements. Performance is better with a higher reserve...and better price.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_221495-14989-LLA1683066_4294795218__?productId=3115861&Ns=p_pro duct_price|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_pri ce|1&facetInfo=