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Thread: Auto dimming mask question

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by cbmkr View Post
    ... and free 2 year replacement for $9.99.
    I never get replacement warranties but in this case it might be worth considering. How fragile are auto darkening helmets in general, regardless of manufacturer?

  2. #22

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    They are more fragile than the standard just because the electronics are added, But with normal use they are fine. My thought on the HF replacement warranty is that you can also upgrade to a newer or better model if one comes out . If i break the headgear or crack the helmet itself, or if the auto system just quits. Its to the store for return.

    My old Jackson brand large lens hood just sits now.
    PowerTig 200DX
    Supercut 50P
    PowerTig Micro 185 SOLD GREAT MACHINE
    Millermatic 200
    Miller Thunderbolt
    Jet 1340 Lathe
    Jet 20" Drill Press
    Jet 12" Wet Band Saw
    Kalamazoo H7 Bandsaw
    Forward 12,000 lb 4 Post Lift

  3. #23

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    You can do soda cans on 20 amps without blasting holes.... I tried it with my 200DX and blast holes no mater what. I tried .040 tungsten and played with ac balance... even tried pulse... holes is all I get.

    I have been practicing on 1/8 al angle and doing ok beads.
    Everlast PowerTig 200DX
    Everlast Supercut 50P
    I need a MIG.... which one to buy:
    I-Mig 160, I-Mig 200, or a MTS 160

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    2,662

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    Too small a tungsten won't let you move the heat to the tungsten. If you do 20 amps @ about 65% balance, you should be ok.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Greater Seattle, WA
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    813

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    Quote Originally Posted by ShaneJackson View Post
    You can do soda cans on 20 amps without blasting holes.... I tried it with my 200DX and blast holes no mater what. I tried .040 tungsten and played with ac balance... even tried pulse... holes is all I get.

    I have been practicing on 1/8 al angle and doing ok beads.
    I'll bet there is a thin, clear coating of lacquer over the bottom of that can that is causing you problems. If you remove it, it will help. Try scrubbing it thoroughly with a stainless steel wire brush, or scotchbrite pad to remove the lacquer and get down to bare aluminum.

    Quote Originally Posted by cbmkr View Post
    Used it welding pop cans at 20 amps on 185 did great.
    I expect a HF autodark would work fine on 20 amps AC; at least my blue flame did (and before it I also used a different blue flame without the grind mode, that was the same in its arc sensitivity behavior.)

    DC welding (without pulsing) is a different story though (on both of the HF autodarks I've used.) I expect will initially darken when you strike the non-pulse DC arc, but then will lighten on you mid-arc, after a couple or so seconds.
    '13 Everlast 255EXT
    '07 Everlast Super200P

  6. #26

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    Gave it another go last night with 1/16 tungsten and 65% balance 20 amps.... better but still blowing holes like crazy. Oh and sanded and cleaned the bottom real good.

    The arc is all over the place.... is the AC arc suppose to be anything like a DC arc??? On DC I get a very good tight arc, on AC is starts out all over the place (even with a sharp tungsten and 125 freq) until I get a good shiny puddle (this is on the 1/8 metal). Then it focuses better but the puddle always seems to grow larger and larger.... I guess it is while the piece heats up. I am using 2t torch and down slop ... I guess I need to play with the pedal.
    Everlast PowerTig 200DX
    Everlast Supercut 50P
    I need a MIG.... which one to buy:
    I-Mig 160, I-Mig 200, or a MTS 160

  7. #27

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    With the 200Dx and the 185 like i have we are at a disadvantage trying to weld the cans at the higher amps , it would be easier at 10 amps not 20 but can be done.
    The arc will not be as smooth as DC . In AC on cans i used 3/32 tungsten and 3/32 filler, It worked and seemed to pull the heat to the filler and not the can.
    I had good success on cans at 20 amps w the 185, Turn the Freq up to around 200-225, You should get a high buzzing sound and the arc will be more centralized to the end of the tungsten.
    I did post my try at welding cans on the site here a while back.
    One thing about cans i have noticed and been told by mark, the sugar deposit in the can can cause issues also, But the main thing i found was all cans are not the same thickness. Beer cans are thicker than coke cans, 16oz , 32oz cans are a lot thicker than coke cans almost 3 times as thick. Find some thicker ones and give them a try.

    After the can practice and success , i had some .030 aluminum sheet to attach some .025 aluminum hinges too. i think i settled on about 40 amps for that project and it worked just fine.

    I do not do this for a living anymore as i am retired and just have a lot of things to repair for myself and friends and repair work around the farm here, some of my suggestions might not seem on track with what others say but i am still learning with this inverter type machine on aluminum over the older machines i learned on.
    PowerTig 200DX
    Supercut 50P
    PowerTig Micro 185 SOLD GREAT MACHINE
    Millermatic 200
    Miller Thunderbolt
    Jet 1340 Lathe
    Jet 20" Drill Press
    Jet 12" Wet Band Saw
    Kalamazoo H7 Bandsaw
    Forward 12,000 lb 4 Post Lift

  8. #28

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    65% balance? WHY? The arc WILL be all over the place.

  9. #29

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    If i am correct the balance should be set about 30% or 9:00 O'clock or a little less on the dial. Mark is right when building my aluminum cart the higher the balance the more the arc jumped around and the more cleaning or frosting you got.
    PowerTig 200DX
    Supercut 50P
    PowerTig Micro 185 SOLD GREAT MACHINE
    Millermatic 200
    Miller Thunderbolt
    Jet 1340 Lathe
    Jet 20" Drill Press
    Jet 12" Wet Band Saw
    Kalamazoo H7 Bandsaw
    Forward 12,000 lb 4 Post Lift

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