Auto dimming mask question

[Jasonz172]

Hello. First post here.

I just got a 250ex tig and a fabricator mask. It's pretty sweet getting to learn on the 250ex, but I have a problem (I'm probably just doing something wrong). I think it's the mask (because without the mask, the arc doesn't seem to get drastically brighter or dimmer when watching the reflection on the wall)

When welding some 24ga sheet metal @ 20-30 amps, the shade level on the mask instantly jumps from pretty shaded, to hardly shaded. When the shade level jumps down, it's not a blinding light, but the light is bright enough where it's hard to see my weld area anymore. I was welding yesterday night with my friend (who has some weld experience, but none with an auto dimming mask), and he had the same problem. I tried to make sure the sensors were right perpendicular to the arc, but I don't think that made a considerable difference.

sensitivity was set to 3 bars
shade level was 8
delay was fast

any ideas?

Thanks,
Jason

[performance]

Make sure sensitivity is set as high as possible.

[Jasonz172]

Is 3 bars the most sensitive or least sensitive? I think there's also an option for 'grind'. I will try to get some time in today.

[jakeru]

If all else fails with adjusting your helmet to work with your the arc, you can adjust your arc to work with your helmet by adding in a little pulsing into the DC arc. It's a bit of a kludgey workaround, but I find just a little bit of pulsing makes all the difference with getting my helmet (a harbor freight unit) to reliably trigger when TIG welding DC.

My helmet's two sensitivity settings ("low" and "high") aren't sensitive enough to reliably trigger from a pulsation-free low amp DC arc. Eventually I'll buy a better one that is more sensitive, but for now that's my "workaround."

[Jasonz172]

If all else fails with adjusting your helmet to work with your the arc, you can adjust your arc to work with your helmet by adding in a little pulsing into the DC arc. I find just a little bit of pulsing makes all the difference with getting my helmet (a harbor freight unit) to reliably trigger when TIG welding DC.

My helmet's two sensitivity settings ("low" and "high") aren't sensitive enough to reliably trigger from a pulsation-free low amp DC arc. Eventually I'll buy a better one that is more sensitive, but for now that's my "workaround."

maybe I'll try adding some flashlight reflectors in front of the sensors.. that might work. Is there anything else that people try to make these masks work in the 30 amp range?

[performance]

It's probably got more to do with how much tungsten you have sticking out and the angle of your torch more than anything. Being perpendicular to the weld is NOT what you want. You actually should be leaning in at a 45 degree angle in between the torch and the front part of the weld...which is the correct way to use a helmet like this.

[Rambozo]

I think it's the mask (because without the mask, the arc doesn't seem to get drastically brighter or dimmer when watching the reflection on the wall)

Watch out for that. The reflection can get you. The worst flash burn I ever got was from helping do some aluminum fitting for another welder. I was just holding pieces so I would just look away or close my eyes, when he tacked things up. Not a good plan, several hours later I got hit with some of the worst pain I have ever felt and had to go to the hospital to get anesthetic for my eyes. Learned my lesson that night for sure.

Even if your helmet doesn't stay dark, it will still filter you from UV and IR so you might get dazzled, but not burned. Try going through the settings for your helmet to make sure you are not missing something, and turn the delay up so that even if you block the sensor for a second, it will stay dark long enough to recover. For most things sensitivity up full and delay up full will be your best bet for low amp TIG.

[vicrc]

BTW, I did have problems getting flashed on low frequency with the blue flame helmet. I set the sensitivity high switch on the inside helmet and it worked for me.

[cbmkr]

I had the same problem with the first red flame one from HF, Returned it and tested the other one in the parking lot on some sunshine reflection on a car mirror. It works fine and i have had no issues. Used it welding pop cans at 20 amps on 185 did great. Better yet it was the $79.95 one with a coupon on sale for $49.95 and free 2 year replacement for $9.99.

[blacksmith]

... and free 2 year replacement for $9.99.

I never get replacement warranties but in this case it might be worth considering. How fragile are auto darkening helmets in general, regardless of manufacturer?

[cbmkr]

They are more fragile than the standard just because the electronics are added, But with normal use they are fine. My thought on the HF replacement warranty is that you can also upgrade to a newer or better model if one comes out . If i break the headgear or crack the helmet itself, or if the auto system just quits. Its to the store for return.

My old Jackson brand large lens hood just sits now.

[ShaneJackson]

You can do soda cans on 20 amps without blasting holes.... I tried it with my 200DX and blast holes no mater what. I tried .040 tungsten and played with ac balance... even tried pulse... holes is all I get.

I have been practicing on 1/8 al angle and doing ok beads.

[Rambozo]

Too small a tungsten won't let you move the heat to the tungsten. If you do 20 amps @ about 65% balance, you should be ok.

[jakeru]

You can do soda cans on 20 amps without blasting holes.... I tried it with my 200DX and blast holes no mater what. I tried .040 tungsten and played with ac balance... even tried pulse... holes is all I get.

I have been practicing on 1/8 al angle and doing ok beads.

I'll bet there is a thin, clear coating of lacquer over the bottom of that can that is causing you problems. If you remove it, it will help. Try scrubbing it thoroughly with a stainless steel wire brush, or scotchbrite pad to remove the lacquer and get down to bare aluminum.

Used it welding pop cans at 20 amps on 185 did great.

I expect a HF autodark would work fine on 20 amps AC; at least my blue flame did (and before it I also used a different blue flame without the grind mode, that was the same in its arc sensitivity behavior.)

DC welding (without pulsing) is a different story though (on both of the HF autodarks I've used.) I expect will initially darken when you strike the non-pulse DC arc, but then will lighten on you mid-arc, after a couple or so seconds.