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Thread: Power Pro 256 cannot get a cut with plasma cutter

  1. Default Power Pro 256 cannot get a cut with plasma cutter

    I have had 256 for a couple months now and I'm am pretty happy with the tig and stick functions but I am having no luck at all with the plasma. I tried to cut1/8 aluminum and cuts are very inconsistent
    Meaning sometimes it arcs and sputters and leaves ugly black spots. When I have gotten it to cut its maybe for about an inch and it's very messy with lots of slag underneath. The consumables seem to be wearing out very fast and it has even melted the standoff and cap on the plasma torch. I have It hooked up to a craftsman 3.5 HP 25 gallon 125 max PSI compressor and it's running through a motor guard M-45 air dryer/cleaner. I need some help. Thanks !!

  2. #2

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    What air pressure, and what torch do you have? Aluminum cuts with a plasma are not pretty typically and does leave slag under the cut because it melts, and does not "oxidize" the same way steel does. Are you holding a standoff? How much? It should be less than 1/8". Are you doing a lot of straight down piercing? Are you using the torch in the negative? Set for DC? What is your cfm at 90 psi?

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    The PSI on the back of the unit is at 60psi but I've tried it everywhere from 40psi-85psi. I've used the standoff guide and tried dragging and tried to hold a minimal standoff. I believe I have the A81 torch.

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    I have had the same luck with regular steel. I am trying just a regular cut starting on the edge of the metal and I also have tried piercing with the same luck.

  5. #5

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    Are you getting the cutting arc or only the pilot arc? IF you are burning up the cons and getting a lot of blowback from the metal particles, it sounds as if your arc isn't transferring or you have the wrong polarity. Is the torch in the negative or positive? Did you get a floating ball tube with the torch? 65-75 is about right for that unit, unless the pressure gauge is off a little. Make sure you are getting GOOD contact between the metal and work clamp, and see if it is getting hot on you while trying to cut or if it is corroded under the cable lug where it attaches to the clamp and pull the rubber boot back off the DINSE connector and check to make sure there is no corrosion or loose cable there either. Also is the swirl ring in the torch?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonathan5685 View Post
    I have had 256 for a couple months now and I'm am pretty happy with the tig and stick functions but I am having no luck at all with the plasma. I tried to cut1/8 aluminum and cuts are very inconsistent
    Meaning sometimes it arcs and sputters and leaves ugly black spots. When I have gotten it to cut its maybe for about an inch and it's very messy with lots of slag underneath. The consumables seem to be wearing out very fast and it has even melted the standoff and cap on the plasma torch. I have It hooked up to a craftsman 3.5 HP 25 gallon 125 max PSI compressor and it's running through a motor guard M-45 air dryer/cleaner. I need some help. Thanks !!
    I had the same type of problem with a different brand of plasma cutter and it led to not enough volume of air,I currently 25 Cfm at 175 Psi, What CFM is your Compresor 25 gallon is enough capacity for a short time but the return rate on your compressor may not be enough to keep up with the amount of air being used. You might have a high cfm but it may be at a low psi.Just a thought what might be going on.
    PowerTig 200DX
    Supercut 50P
    PowerTig Micro 185 SOLD GREAT MACHINE
    Millermatic 200
    Miller Thunderbolt
    Jet 1340 Lathe
    Jet 20" Drill Press
    Jet 12" Wet Band Saw
    Kalamazoo H7 Bandsaw
    Forward 12,000 lb 4 Post Lift

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    Torch is in the negative side. Swirl ring is in. No I didn't receive the pressure tube thing. The compressor is 6.8 scfm @ 90 psi. Or 8.5 scfm @ 40 psi.

  8. #8

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    I was having trouble with my torch at first too, but it was all user error. First of all, I didn't realize the grounding clamp was needed, then I didn't know that the green knobs all needed to be zeroed out (except arc force)
    PowerPro 256, Lincoln Electric Weld Pack, 220V HF Spot welder,
    RF45 Mill/Drill(clone), and more $$$ in tooling for the mill than it's worth!
    Cadillac 14 x 40 lathe (not yet running)

  9. #9

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    I wish there was a more comprehensive instruction manual for these units or even a laminated quick reference guide that explains what every knob does for all three modes cause it seems like every mode needs the knobs in a certain position to get the best performance. I always mess things up when I switch from the foot pedal to the torch switch cause I forget to adjust things.

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    So do you think that the specs I listed for the compressor I have is not enough to support a decent cut?

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonathan5685 View Post
    So do you think that the specs I listed for the compressor I have is not enough to support a decent cut?
    It's not the compressor because a 25 gallon tank could maintain cutting pressure for several minutes at least. Your compressor should be fine.
    Last edited by zoama; 09-20-2012 at 11:30 AM.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

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    Well then it's non of the obvious problems. I'm thinking something's wrong with the machine?

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    Well I finally figured it out on my own. Nobody ever mentioned all the green knobs had to be zeroed. After lots of frustration and consumables it at last works.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonathan5685 View Post
    Well I finally figured it out on my own. Nobody ever mentioned all the green knobs had to be zeroed. After lots of frustration and consumables it at last works.
    Ahem, somebody did...

    Quote Originally Posted by hobbymachnst View Post
    I was having trouble with my torch at first too, but it was all user error. First of all, I didn't realize the grounding clamp was needed, then I didn't know that the green knobs all needed to be zeroed out (except arc force)
    PowerPro 256, Lincoln Electric Weld Pack, 220V HF Spot welder,
    RF45 Mill/Drill(clone), and more $$$ in tooling for the mill than it's worth!
    Cadillac 14 x 40 lathe (not yet running)

  15. Default

    Oh ya you did haha. Maybe that's how I figured it out. Thanks to hobby machinist! Do you have any tips on cutting or attachments for drag cutting? Very much appreciated.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonathan5685 View Post
    Oh ya you did haha. Maybe that's how I figured it out. Thanks to hobby machinist! Do you have any tips on cutting or attachments for drag cutting? Very much appreciated.
    Not really, that tip pretty much exhausted my current knowledge about the machine

    I fired it up, made a couple cuts with the torch, went through 10 or 15 sticks of 6013, and more or less melted a small scrap of 1/4 aluminum flatbar with the tig torch, and then had to put it up because my company moved.
    I'm still waiting for them to hook up 220 at the new shop
    PowerPro 256, Lincoln Electric Weld Pack, 220V HF Spot welder,
    RF45 Mill/Drill(clone), and more $$$ in tooling for the mill than it's worth!
    Cadillac 14 x 40 lathe (not yet running)

  17. Default

    Ya I had never tig welded before getting this unit. I have gotten decent at welding aluminum. patching some holes in an aluminum boat we have was my first project. I also added at extension on the stainless kelp cutter on the outboard.

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