First day running my 200DX... some ups and some downs (tech support needed too)

[Trip59]

So I finally got to feeling better, finally finished everyone else's major projects and got working on my cart (will post pics later). In the process, I decided to break out the 200DX a bit early and give some 6011 a shot. Came out like crap, looked like a sponge (tried it on AC as well as DC+) I only spent a half an electrode on it, I need to play around a bit more to dial it in.

So I switched over and decided to give TIG a go, had some issues getting the flow set, then realized I had shut the gas and forgot to turn it back on. Ok, so past that, got the flow set and gave it a shot. NO HIGH FREQ. Scratch started a few beads and found out that it IS just like riding a bike. 1" and I was back in the groove without issue, like I never stopped

So now I need to go find the 'gap' tutorial and adjust that, also, the display kept kicking to 011. Did this a handful of times in the 10 minutes or so I was messing with it. What's that mean?

So I got to run my new machine that's been staring at me since June, bit up. Had issues with it, big down. Finished the base for my cart, big up. and in the middle of it, had a neighbor stop by so I could weld some exhaust tips on, he gave me enough to have pizza for dinner for the job (I charge materials plus what they think is fair, put it in the tip jar, I'll look at it later)

BTW, MIG splatter in the armpit hurts just as much as the side of your neck...

[Rambozo]

From someone else used to transformer machines. I was really surprised at how much different inverters are with 6011. While 7018 and 6013 came around pretty quick, I'm gonna need to unlearn some old habits as far as 6011. I've heard the same will apply to 6010, and even more so as the voltage is lower unless the box has a 6010 port. I'm still working on it. It's almost like you have to do things a little backwards, when you would close up the arc on a transformer, you pull back a little on the inverter. And when you get in real close that arc force will kick in and bump up your current. Takes some getting used to. The one thing that didn't was the hot start, that was nice right from the get go. Even with a little extra flux, these machines start really nice.

[Trip59]

Yeah, all my time was on huge old transformers. TIG was same but with a hi-freq box on the line. I didn't do much with the stick, but I did get a feeling it felt backwards, glad to hear the feeling was right.

Now, I just have to find the gap instructions and I'll get to run the TIG side a bit tomorrow. I would have liked to use it for more today, but the MIG did the job, just a bit more grinding...

[performance]

So I finally got to feeling better, finally finished everyone else's major projects and got working on my cart (will post pics later). In the process, I decided to break out the 200DX a bit early and give some 6011 a shot. Came out like crap, looked like a sponge (tried it on AC as well as DC+) I only spent a half an electrode on it, I need to play around a bit more to dial it in.

So I switched over and decided to give TIG a go, had some issues getting the flow set, then realized I had shut the gas and forgot to turn it back on. Ok, so past that, got the flow set and gave it a shot. NO HIGH FREQ. Scratch started a few beads and found out that it IS just like riding a bike. 1" and I was back in the groove without issue, like I never stopped

So now I need to go find the 'gap' tutorial and adjust that, also, the display kept kicking to 011. Did this a handful of times in the 10 minutes or so I was messing with it. What's that mean?

So I got to run my new machine that's been staring at me since June, bit up. Had issues with it, big down. Finished the base for my cart, big up. and in the middle of it, had a neighbor stop by so I could weld some exhaust tips on, he gave me enough to have pizza for dinner for the job (I charge materials plus what they think is fair, put it in the tip jar, I'll look at it later)

BTW, MIG splatter in the armpit hurts just as much as the side of your neck...

The unit displays the output when you are trying to start and as long as it continues to weld. 11 amps with the foot pedal sounds about right at the start.
What is your preflow? Also are you in lift start or HF?

The unit does not weld in AC on stick, the last I knew. Set your arc force for about 75%.

[Trip59]

Does not weld in AC on stick? Really?

This was without the foot pedal, using the torch trigger. I set the amps to 85, hit the button and it blinked to 011 for a few seconds. I had pre and post both set to 5, downslope about the same. I had it set to HF, DC, no pulse. I used it in both 2t and 4t (trying out the torch and the pedal) and neither would fire off, I had to lift start even with the HF so I stopped since I knew it wasn't right and didn't want to damage anything.

[performance]

Well, if you had the preflow set to 5, then it won't give you HF for at least 5 seconds. You need to turn that way down, to about .5 or 1. It really is rare you need preflow that long...Remember preflow delays the start by that number of seconds. Going to 11 amps for the start is completely normal.

[Trip59]

Had it set that high so I could adjust the flow. I did hit it and hold it there for longer than 5, still no HF. I'll try again tomorrow with it turned down.

The 200DX really can't do AC stick?

[performance]

It defaults to DC last I knew.

[bswinn]

Hi there Trip59.

I'm also a new 200DX user. I have not used the machine in stick mode (not a fan of stick since I suck at it) so I'm unsure of your issues here. Also, I haven't experienced anything wrong on the HF start. I would say to double check, then check again, the position of the start mode switch on the front panel. I know from experience how difficult it is sometimes to discern what position the switch is in.

The display going to 011 I believe I'm familiar with since it happens to my machine too. From my understanding of reading through the forums...ignore the amperage display while the torch is putting out juice, it's useless (bit of a downer there).

[Trip59]

Ok, so nice full day of running the machine.

Started out working on my cart only to have my MIG short out (sheath slipped down a bit) arc'd the liner to ground and melted the gas line.

DC+ on the 200DX with 6011 smoothed out a bit after I got used to it, unfortunately, I was running the wrong size for what I was doing, so it's ugly as sin, but worked it out and was able to finish the project. Too much leftover paint to TIG, so I burned through the crap and just finished it up.

TIG, the knob must have gotten bumped, preflow was set to max, which is around 10 it seems, so counting past 5 wouldn't have it start, though it would strike and run at that point. I brought pre-flow down as suggested but it was too big a blast. Somewhere around 2 worked great.

Had to mess with the sensitivity on my new helmet a bit, I'm happy with it though, Hobart variable shade w/grind mode. Max sensitivity had it going dark with sunlight. Oddly, I liked this, I was able to use my hand to block it momentarily to see, then move my hand and weld. Once I got it dialed in, it became my favorite helmet. Easy adjustment knob on the outside.

Now, I noticed that when I let off the pedal or switch, EVERY TIME, the display would momentarily say 011.

Next weekend should have some more hood time, I want to try out the pulse function.

[Rambozo]

One TIG tip you might find useful. Since the argon blast at startup can mess things up, (shorter, smaller, less soft hose between the tank and machine will really help that) and waiting for the arc just feels odd, here is what I have always done. Set the preflow to zero and the post flow to normal for the size tungsten and power you are using, typically 5-10 seconds. Then right before you start a weld keep the torch away from the material by about an inch and just tap the button or pedal for an instant. This will start the postflow timer. Now you can get right into position while the gas is stabilizing and then when you hit the button or pedal, the arc will start right away and since the postflow was still going, it will be a super clean start at the exact moment you hit the switch. I find this a much more exacting way to start and I just do it out of habit now. For me knowing right when the arc will start gives me much more control, especially in tight places or when I'm all out of position to get to something.

[Trip59]

One TIG tip you might find useful. Since the argon blast at startup can mess things up, (shorter, smaller, less soft hose between the tank and machine will really help that) and waiting for the arc just feels odd, here is what I have always done. Set the preflow to zero and the post flow to normal for the size tungsten and power you are using, typically 5-10 seconds. Then right before you start a weld keep the torch away from the material by about an inch and just tap the button or pedal for an instant. This will start the postflow timer. Now you can get right into position while the gas is stabilizing and then when you hit the button or pedal, the arc will start right away and since the postflow was still going, it will be a super clean start at the exact moment you hit the switch. I find this a much more exacting way to start and I just do it out of habit now. For me knowing right when the arc will start gives me much more control, especially in tight places or when I'm all out of position to get to something.

Took all the advice, I changed the hose out to a much thicker, reinforced hose I had (about twice as thick wall) shortened it to about 14" and it improved dramatically, almost no blast. I also did as you said, set pre to the lowest and tap the pedal. BTW, the 200DX will throw a near 2" spark, so I rotate it to point up, hit it, rotate it back to the work and then go.

I also started knocking the needle point off the tungsten, just a very minor flat, helped it out a bit, though the arc went ape#### a couple times due to, I'm guessing, spots on the metal that wanted the arc more then where I wanted it. it jumped into the tube when I was trying to edge weld, hit the ridge from the tube's weld.

Getting in my 3/32 tungsten and assortment of fillers this week, will be spending time tomorrow, Thurs and Fri practicing up. Got my first paying TIG gig Saturday (that coolant line I've mentioned a few times. Going to replicate the joint on regular steel exhaust a couple times, then a practice on SS and if it feels, looks right, I'll do the final one. Same with the surface bead.

[SeanMurphy265]

Keep up with what you charge fig welding because you can loose money quick! I have two 80 cf tanks and I can run through one pretty quick, at $40.00 a tank! My first paid tight job was a riveted aluminum boat and I lost my butt on that piece of crap.

[Trip59]

Keep up with what you charge fig welding because you can loose money quick! I have two 80 cf tanks and I can run through one pretty quick, at $40.00 a tank! My first paid tight job was a riveted aluminum boat and I lost my butt on that piece of crap.

First gig is for the guy who bought my 125 tank for me for helping weld up a frame break (it's in the project section) he way overpaid me. For this, he's covering a pound of filler and paying on top of that, I have no doubt he'll do me better than right. Others... did an exhaust tip job the other day, got $10, told him to give me what he thought was fair, figured he'd do ok since he was quoted $300 from the shop that did the exhaust. Lesson learned. Now:

$20 to get my gear out, $1 per tack, $1 per inch, plus whatever is fair in my tip jar

$30 or so to fill my 125, but it's a half hour drive each way.