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Thread: 200 LX intermittent output (current)

  1. Default 200 LX intermittent output (current)

    Hi, I hope to get a resolution for this problem that I can fix without sending the unit back.

    Problem: I get an intermittent lack of full current flow. For example if I set the unit at 130 amps, sometimes when I fully depress the pedal while welding aluminum everything works fine and I get 130, then sometimes it will not go past about 20 or 21 amps even with the pedal down all of the way for 10+ seconds. It will go back and forth without touching any knobs on the machine. There is no middle of the road either. It's either full power or 20 amps. I have checked the pedal with a multi-meter. It seems to have perfect change in resistance from 0 to 70k something ohms. It does not seem to matter if the machine is cold (just turned on) or hot either.

    Thanks for any input.

    Buck

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Disneyland
    Posts
    2,662

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bucket View Post
    Hi, I hope to get a resolution for this problem that I can fix without sending the unit back.

    Problem: I get an intermittent lack of full current flow. For example if I set the unit at 130 amps, sometimes when I fully depress the pedal while welding aluminum everything works fine and I get 130, then sometimes it will not go past about 20 or 21 amps even with the pedal down all of the way for 10+ seconds. It will go back and forth without touching any knobs on the machine. There is no middle of the road either. It's either full power or 20 amps. I have checked the pedal with a multi-meter. It seems to have perfect change in resistance from 0 to 70k something ohms. It does not seem to matter if the machine is cold (just turned on) or hot either.

    Thanks for any input.

    Buck
    Check it without the pedal, just using the torch switch. There are several things that can go wrong with the pedal and by testing without it, you can narrow your issue down to the pedal or the machine.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  3. #3

    Default

    Yes, sounds like a pedal too. Make sure your cog is not slipping on the shaft. Otherwise, it's time for a new pedal likely. Give us a call if you need help.

  4. Default

    Rambozo you were spot on. Checked with the torch switch. Works like a champ.

    Performance, I checked the pedal, the cog is not slipping. I adjusted it when I first bought it and it has been fine since then.

    Recommendations for a new pedal?

  5. #5

    Default

    You can get a new chinese pedal or order the SSC. I believe yours does not have a separate rheostat on the pedal does it? That would be the 47k (you can confirm this by looking at the pot in the pedal and it should be marked). That would be the same as what we produce now. Simply call ext 202 and purchase one. Pedals, torches etc. are only warrantied for 6 months. The welder of course is for 5 years.

  6. Default

    Also, I took the multi-meter to the connector again. Pins 3-4 gives 0-40k ohms, then shorts during the last inch of pedal travel. Pins 5-6 gives 40-0 kohms.

  7. #7

    Default

    Ok, the short is likely the cause. Give 202 a call if you want another pedal.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Default

    Another option is to just replace the pot in the pedal you have.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  9. #9

    Default

    The pot is easy to replace. Yours does not have the separate pot, so you have 3 choices.

    The SSC is a US made lower profile pedal, never used one but everyone seems to like them. Depends on that you want to spend.

    The short at the end of the 47K is not good though, weird it would short at the end. Maybe tweak the cog back a hair .
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  10. Default

    Am I right in assuming that the SSC is the pedal for sale here that says "US Made"?

    Also, I confirmed the POT is 47k.

    Buck
    Last edited by Bucket; 10-26-2012 at 12:31 AM.

  11. #11

    Default

    Yes. It is made in the USA. I left the A off, sorry.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    143

    Default

    My 225lx did the same thing when the pot went flaky. I got one from a local electronics shop, and asked for the best one they had. It turned out to me Made In Canada; go figure! I thought they only made the other kind out in BC...

    The only deal was it turned out to have a little more range angle than the old one, so I had to put the pedal stop way down. Now it's a bit uncomfortable to go full throttle. Watch out for that.

    I checked out the old one before tossing it. It had a few wiper contacts so not a bad design. Unfortunately only one was actually in contact...

    Also, upon replacing I got my downslope overriding my pedal back after replacing it, which was a surprise. I kind of like that: it allows me to be lazy when ending a weld without cratering.
    Last edited by Paul Moir; 10-26-2012 at 07:51 PM.

  13. Default

    Ordered the new pedal

  14. #14

    Default

    Our pedals. No SSC in the picture, just Everlast pedals. They range from 3.5" high (far left 210ext only 1K) to 8" old school far right (47K). Our low profile is 4.25" high (47K) in the middle and not a bad pedal at all.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

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