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Thread: CK20 for a 200DX?

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    True, but you have to be careful of how the argon solenoid is switched. If it's switched by a relay you can probably see the contact rating on it and make sure that you don't exceed that with two solenoids. But if it's solid state switching, it might not have that much extra current available, in which case you might need to add a relay to switch one or both solenoids. The last thing you want to do is fry the solid state device that switches the solenoid. Some solenoid valves can draw a fair amount of current.
    I could, but why? Seems to me I'd want it running before and longer than the gas, to draw remaining heat from the head and circulate the water for best heat transfer.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    I could, but why? Seems to me I'd want it running before and longer than the gas, to draw remaining heat from the head and circulate the water for best heat transfer.
    Oh yeah, it really helps to keep the torch cool to have it run all the time. But you'd better be damn sure you remember to turn it on, before you start welding, or your power cable will go poof! With an automatic setup you can't forget. Or if you have a cooler, it's no problem to just wire it up to come on with the welder. I think the 200DX has an outlet in the back just for that. But if you run off the sink, maybe hang a sign on the power switch to remind you to turn on the water.
    That's one other advantage of CK torch setups, they have a thing called a torch saver that has a fuse block that will blow if there is no water flowing. I think I saw that the 250EXT had a water flow sensor that would cut the current if your water stopped as well.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  3. #3
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    Relying on yourself (or other human) to turn on/off water valve is risky...

    Here's what happened to an expensive CK superflex cable when someone in the off-site shop I was welding at turned off the water in a laundry tub faucet cooling the TIG setup I was using. That was not a good day...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You might give serious consideration to simply going with a CK Trimline 210 superflex with flex head, being able to weld anything you come across with reasonable dexterity (it will be a huge improvement in maneuverability over your current WP-26 and the handle is going to be way smaller too) and not messing around with all the complexity that is water-cooling.

    I have a setup with similar output capacity as yours (Everlast Super200P; AC/DC TIG rated 200 amps @ 60% duty cycle) and the trimline 210 can take whatever it can dish (keeping the AC balance in check).
    '13 Everlast 255EXT
    '07 Everlast Super200P

  4. #4
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    Where does the 210 fit in size-wise and consumables-wise? What series consumables does it use and would it be comparable in size to a WP9/20?
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  5. #5
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    Zoama posted a picture of the TL210 superflex next to a CK 9 superflex, (which comparably makes the TL210 superflex cable look like a monster) but it doesn't show how much better it is than that WP26 that you've got. You should post a picture of your WP26, because there are different variations of that on the market (even for Everlast machines, I think) and it would help us know which you've got so we're not making the wrong assumptions.

    I've tried one (a WP26) that was literally like a club though (huge, thick, long handle and thick, very poorly flexible cable, which was basically the same hose used for rubber compressed air hose! Is this what you have?) - It was just horrible.

    Anyhow, the TL210 superflex cable has the same OD and the same flexibility as a vinyl-hosed WP9 or WP17, and a handle that is also very close in diameter (I think ever so slightly larger). This would be a huge step up from a WP26.

    The TL210 uses the same components are the WP17 or WP26. There are stubby collet bodies that allow you to fit WP9 or WP17 cups onto it, of which I particularly like the stubby gas lens version. If you want just one aircooled torch that does it all for the machine you have and is the best available, TL210. If you want to trade off some high power capacity to get some further maneuverability, CK9. Are you going to be welding primarily aluminum, or steel? And how thick of materials will you typically be welding? If aluminum, or thick, TL210. (If both thick *and* aluminum at the same time, TL210 with a Helium mix will do it. )

    Actually, I have both the everlast WP20 and the TL210 kicking around here so if you want, I can take some side by side comparison pics of those in a few days. Still won't allow comparison to whatever WP26 it is that you have.

    Edit: you could also do some more research on older threads in this forum for the same topic, there have been lots of others who have made similar upgrades. Here is some additional information, for example:
    http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...-Torch-options
    Last edited by jakeru; 11-14-2012 at 03:57 PM.
    '13 Everlast 255EXT
    '07 Everlast Super200P

  6. #6

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    I just put in an order for the TL210 flex head with a 25' Superflex cable and the matching gas-saver kit. The torch takes the 3 series components by default but you can put the stuby kit like suggested above to use the 2 series components.

    My original reasoning was to buy a lower high end torch like the CK17 for the flexibility and then swap to the OEM torch for the top end. Then I said to hell with that idea. I don't weld in such huge quantities to find much advantage is this so I figured a flex head with 200 amp capability and a slimer design would cover everything unless I have a super specific need.

    Enough of my rambling. My original purpose in replying was to state that once the torch comes in I can take some photos of the CK TL210 next to the OEM 200DX WP26 torch if wanted.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bswinn View Post
    I just put in an order for the TL210 flex head with a 25' Superflex cable and the matching gas-saver kit. The torch takes the 3 series components by default but you can put the stuby kit like suggested above to use the 2 series components.

    My original reasoning was to buy a lower high end torch like the CK17 for the flexibility and then swap to the OEM torch for the top end. Then I said to hell with that idea. I don't weld in such huge quantities to find much advantage is this so I figured a flex head with 200 amp capability and a slimer design would cover everything unless I have a super specific need.

    Enough of my rambling. My original purpose in replying was to state that once the torch comes in I can take some photos of the CK TL210 next to the OEM 200DX WP26 torch if wanted.
    That would be awesome, also, what all you had to pick up to make it work would help out greatly. I responded with what appears to be a similar thought line to your original thoughts as you were posting this... looks like I need to step back and think about it again. This all is starting to make my head hurt worse than my hand.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  8. #8
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    Been searching, I'd love it if someone had a side by side shot of all the torches in their lineup, you'd think manufacturer's would. Maybe I'll e-mail Jody and ask him to line up a collection of his torches side by side for comparison, sounds like something he could easily get a 7-10 minute video on that tons of folks would appreciate...

    The one I have is the big blue WP26 that others have posted pics of.

    One of the major projects I have coming up is a bunch of cast aluminum repairs. I have a 74 sporty case half on the way for practice so I can dial in the machine and operator before tackling the probably 120" of welding on my 59 cases, also have some intake manifold repairs and my neighbor the mechanic is always needing repairs on cast aluminum parts, so I need to be able to squeeze all the juice I can from the 200DX. Other than that, the vast majority of welding I've done and will do is much thinner steel and stainless, likely well under 130-150 amps 80-90% of the time

    I was looking for a small torch to handle whatever I threw at it, from getting inside cases and funky places under hoods, to miles of sheet metal and light fabrication. The probably 8-10 hours I've been searching and reading since posting, and all that before, is now leading me to think about a single line smaller gas cooled torch with superflex like a CK9 or CK130, and then something else like http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...tos-and-Part-s for the bigger stuff.

    Unfortunately, it doesn't look like $$ is going to line up just yet, so I'm going to keep digging and researching and take a look at a January purchase. Even the great deal from Alex probably isn't going to fit my immediate budget.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

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