Help choosing 225LX or 200DX

[Dhoffryn]

Hi,

Looking to purchase my first TIG to learn on; home/personal motorsports (4x4) applications only.
I've only used MIG, so my question may be very rudimentary.

Typically (99% of the time) I'd be welding tube, 1.5 & 1.75 .120 wall DOM and thin aluminum with the TIG, but ocassionally I may do cast iron axle housings that would require more power.

The 200DX is likely all the machine I'd need, but in consideration of future proofing I'm also considering the 225LX.
The 225 comes with 12 ft Economy WP 18 series water-cooled TIG torch.
I think the added cost of water cooling would put me on to the 200 because I don't really need to weld for extended periods of time and can always put it down to cool.

Is water cooling a requirement for the 225's torch or can the it be run without water on lower settings/shorter periods?
Again, really new to all these options with the TIG, but excited to learn.

Thanks in advance.

[Rambozo]

Hi,

Looking to purchase my first TIG to learn on; home/personal motorsports (4x4) applications only.
I've only used MIG, so my question may be very rudimentary.

Typically (99% of the time) I'd be welding tube, 1.5 & 1.75 .120 wall DOM and thin aluminum with the TIG, but ocassionally I may do cast iron axle housings that would require more power.

The 200DX is likely all the machine I'd need, but in consideration of future proofing I'm also considering the 225LX.
The 225 comes with 12 ft Economy WP 18 series water-cooled TIG torch.
I think the added cost of water cooling would put me on to the 200 because I don't really need to weld for extended periods of time and can always put it down to cool.

Is water cooling a requirement for the 225's torch or can the it be run without water on lower settings/shorter periods?
Again, really new to all these options with the TIG, but excited to learn.

Thanks in advance.

Welcome.

Water cooling is required on all water cooled torches, or you will burn up the power cable. You can check with support to see what torch options are available for each model. Also the options from Everlast CA are different than US.

The difference is power between those isn't much. Translates into about .025" material thickness difference.

[undercut]

I've heard some people have hooked up the water cooled torch to a faucet in a pinch but I wouldn't suggest it. Too easy to forget to turn on the tap and I'm not sure if the minerals dissolved in the water will eventually clog up the torch.

I'm with Rambozo, if you aren't going to get a water cooler, the 200DX might be close enough in power to edge out the 225LX.

[Rambozo]

I've heard some people have hooked up the water cooled torch to a faucet in a pinch but I wouldn't suggest it. Too easy to forget to turn on the tap and I'm not sure if the minerals dissolved in the water will eventually clog up the torch.

I'm with Rambozo, if you aren't going to get a water cooler, the 200DX might be close enough in power to edge out the 225LX.

Lots of TIG setups have been run with city water as constant loss, even before coolers existed, but those old machines also have a water solenoid valve that turns the water on and off with the argon so you don't forget and you don't waste a lot of water.

[Trip59]

I was going to get a 225LX, the latest round of changes to the 200DX were enough to just go that route. The few added and expanded controls brought it pretty close to the same features (200DX has Arc Force, chart doesn't show the LX does, LX has Up Slope, 200DX does not). The big jump would be to go with a 250EX if you wanted the rest of the features. Just my 2 cents.

Now, I did just buy a WP20, but I wanted/needed a smaller torch and also had plans to run the machine up at the top of it's range more than you (big aluminum castings). I'll be running city water, with a valve and a tag on the cart to turn it on, but my next purchase will be a CK fusible link Dinse just in case my tag system doesn't work or the cooler I build fails.

[SeanMurphy265]

You can add the amp control torch to the 225lx. You can also make your own tig cooler to save money. My advice would be to go the biggest you can afford. I've owned both machines and both are good machines.

[Dhoffryn]

Thanks for the help. I think all things considered the 200 should be fine. Now to see if there are any Black Friday deals this week!

[sportbike]

I have a 200DX (one generation older unit) and It suite my needs well. If you have a need for heavier fabrication, the 225 has a bit more power. Features are essentially the same.
It has been stated numerous times that the 200DX may be the most robust machine available from Everlast.
I operate mine on a 30 amp dryer outlet circuit with a 10 gauge 100ft+ SOOW extension cord without any issues.

[Trip59]

I have a 200DX (one generation older unit) and It suite my needs well. If you have a need for heavier fabrication, the 225 has a bit more power. Features are essentially the same.
It has been stated numerous times that the 200DX may be the most robust machine available from Everlast.
I operate mine on a 30 amp dryer outlet circuit with a 10 gauge 100ft+ SOOW extension cord without any issues.

Wow, how many amps are you setting the machine in that configuration? I've been running mine on a dryer circuit as well, there's a 40' #4 extending it to the front of the shop (electrician should be rewiring the shop for me in a couple weeks, new 50A drops at front and by machines) I've been trying to come up with something to get me an extra 50' for work inside enclosed trailers, but cords rated for what the machine calls for are pretty damn expensive.

[SeanMurphy265]

You can go to home depot and buy the cable to make your own chord.

You could also buy one and replace the plugs to match what you need.
http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14368-...extension+cord

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-ft-...ord-93674.html

[Rambozo]

Wow, how many amps are you setting the machine in that configuration? I've been running mine on a dryer circuit as well, there's a 40' #4 extending it to the front of the shop (electrician should be rewiring the shop for me in a couple weeks, new 50A drops at front and by machines) I've been trying to come up with something to get me an extra 50' for work inside enclosed trailers, but cords rated for what the machine calls for are pretty damn expensive.

You can search this forum for more info about extension cords. There is a whole section in the NEC about de-rating extension cords for welders with limited duty cycles. The same thing that limits the welder, also applies to the cord so you don't need a 50A cord for a machine with a 35% duty cycle running at 50A.

[sportbike]

Wow, how many amps are you setting the machine in that configuration? I've been running mine on a dryer circuit as well, there's a 40' #4 extending it to the front of the shop (electrician should be rewiring the shop for me in a couple weeks, new 50A drops at front and by machines) I've been trying to come up with something to get me an extra 50' for work inside enclosed trailers, but cords rated for what the machine calls for are pretty damn expensive.

THe 200DX is only rated at 25A @240VAC. 10 gauge works just for that. Plugging it into a 50A outlet doesn't make the machine run any differently. That said, Some areas for commercial / industrial applications require full current capacity for extension cords (although I believe it is really short circuit over current capacity as required to trip the circuit protection rathern than steady state current carrying in that case)

You really don't need 4 gauge for a 30A dryer outlet. You could increase that circuit to 50A just by changing the circuit protectiona and the receptacle.

[Trip59]

THe 200DX is only rated at 25A @240VAC. 10 gauge works just for that. Plugging it into a 50A outlet doesn't make the machine run any differently. That said, Some areas for commercial / industrial applications require full current capacity for extension cords (although I believe it is really short circuit over current capacity as required to trip the circuit protection rathern than steady state current carrying in that case)

You really don't need 4 gauge for a 30A dryer outlet. You could increase that circuit to 50A just by changing the circuit protectiona and the receptacle.

Sorry... I didn't add all the details. The #4 is run tied into the dryer plug for now, it will be hard-wired into the new panel we're installing with a 50A. The same circuit will also hold (not concurrently) 1 large kiln, my air compressor, lathe and mill, as well as the welder. As I'm one person, I can only use one of these at a time, with the exception of the compressor, so no worries there.

Thought the 200DX was listed at up to 33A, new model different?

[DaveO]

Now to see if there are any Black Friday deals this week!

Welcome, Dhoffryn! There is an email for Thanksgiving week deals, which I'll be happy to forward to you (please PM me with an email address). Or, perhaps someone could post details here. (I don't have a smartphone as much as a dumb phone, so the email format is FUBARred.) You can sign up for email alerts here, btw:
http://visitor.r20.constantcontact.c...m6QnEEUw%3D%3D

[ShaneJackson]

Not sure on the amp draw for the new 200DX.... I have mine on a 30 amp breaker.... about 40 feet or so of 10awg running to the panel if I remember correctly.

You cant go wrong with a 200DX! If you need the extra power, I would step up to the 250EX.

[sportbike]

Thought the 200DX was listed at up to 33A, new model different?

Inrush is listed at 33.6@220V, but inrush isn't really a primary concern when sizing a circuit, unless it is some crazy high amount as compared to running maximums.

Max running amps (I eff) are listed as:
27 A @ 220 V
26 A @ 230 V
25 A @ 240 V

These are the values that should be used when determining ampacity of the wiring.

[Trip59]

Inrush is listed at 33.6@220V, but inrush isn't really a primary concern when sizing a circuit, unless it is some crazy high amount as compared to running maximums.

Max running amps (I eff) are listed as:
27 A @ 220 V
26 A @ 230 V
25 A @ 240 V

These are the values that should be used when determining ampacity of the wiring.

Not sure how I overlooked that! If that's the case, then screw the cable, it's gennie time. I have to double-check mine, I think it's just all 110, but my neighbor (the one with the Pete) has a 5k Generac with a 30A running 240v side (little higher peak) that seems like it matches up with everything power wise, clean power (they mentioned Generac specifically, I assume all heads by them are clean).

[sportbike]

my neighbor (the one with the Pete) has a 5k Generac with a 30A running 240v side (little higher peak)

That must be one hell of a 5K Generator if it is putting out 7200 watts continuous and more than that for peak...

[Trip59]

That's what confused me. I'll have to look at it again. He bought it to run massive stone working tools on site. Says 5k on the front, has a 30A rated 240V...

Mine is rated 5.5k 8k peak, physically about the same size, not sure what gennie head is on it, but mine is a Honda.

[undercut]

You can go to home depot and buy the cable to make your own chord.

You could also buy one and replace the plugs to match what you need.
http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14368-...extension+cord

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-ft-...ord-93674.html

Personally, I bought the Harbor Freight 100 foot cable and made two extension cords. 1 @ 25 ft and 1 @ 75 ft. Cut off the ends and went to town. Bought it on sale and I think I used a coupon too.