Anyone run cellulosic E6010 electrodes in TIG 210Ext?

[Martine]

I'm using the R-Tech equivalent of the Everlast TIG 210Ext and am trying to burn Bohler E6010 electrodes. Striking the arc and keeping it lit is a little tricky, but once lit, if I set a drag angle of about 70 degrees I can get the rod to burn, so long as I push it into the workpiece. (Using DC reverse polarity i.e. DC +ve). If I keep the rod perpendicular to the workpiece e.g. root run, vertical up, I just cannot keep the arc lit for any length of time.

I've read that, in general, inverters struggle to run E6010 cellulosic electrodes.

I've tried different settings of arc force/dig as well as hot start but they don't seem to help.

Has anyone tried cellulosic E6010s with the TIG 210 and, if so, are there any tips you can give me?

Many thanks

Martin

[Ultraman]

Maybe you should post this in TIG category also...

I'm interested in the answer as well because I was thinking about getting 210EXT. I need to be able to run 6010 root for pipe certification.

All I know is if the rod is sticking because you need to maintain tight arc, you need to increase the arc force. Hot start is just to make scratch start easier.

What size rod and amp were you running? Maybe there's a hidden menu you need to adjust...

[everlastsupport]

If I get some time this weekend I will fire up mine with 6010 and test it. I have not ran any stick in it since I have other welders.

Now mine is not an R-tech, so I can not comment there. But I can tell you if ours will run 6010. I need to get the 210ext on a cart, too many welders and not enough room or carts here.

[performance]

On an inverter, running 6010 you DO push in. Technique is different for sure from a transformer. That does not necessarily mean it is more difficult, but only different. You always need to keep a tight arc. But the R tech is not the equivalent model despite what you might think. There are many differences internally despite the outward similarities. But in general you need to set your arc force higher and increase your hot start current to revent sticking. Increasing the duration of the hot start (If you have the adjustment) will also improve starting. IF you have them try the Lincoln 5P+ or ESAB atom arc 6010. There are differences in how these run while welding, and some rods like some machines better than others.

[Martine]

Thanks so much for all the truly helpful replies.

I was using Bohler Fox Cell 2.5mm E6010s and found it best to run at 80-85A, which is at the top end of the recommended range. These rods are primarily recommended for vertical down pipework. And I've started to think that's why I have had some difficulties. I've been trying for ages to get some Lincoln rods, but here in the UK, generally, you can get any rod so long as it's a 6013. Almost every time, I've had to justify why I want a 6010 and why I don't want an "alternative" 6013 instead. I'm hoping the Lincoln UK rep can get me a few sample 5P+ rods as well as some Fleetweld 180s, which is a 6011 cellulosic which can run on sets with an open-circuit voltage as low as 50V. ( I bought the Bohlers because, after months of trying, they were all I could get by way of 6010s in a 10 lb quantity.)

I contacted R-Tech and, despite their TIG 210's specs giving 62V as the no-load volts, I was told that "Our machines run about 75V and we do have customers welding some cellulosic rods ok". So that, plus the kind replies to this thread make me think cellulosic rods should, in general, run on the TIG210.

Thanks for the correction regarding the Everlast 210Ext and the R-Tech TIG 210. I'd mistakenly understood they were equivalents from some forum posting as well as a comparison of the specs and the hidden menus. It was R-Tech's refusal to discuss the hidden menu that lead me to discover Everlast and this forum. (Every cloud has a silver lining.)

I'm really very grateful for the replies and I await with keen interest details of trials with the Everlast 210Ext burning E6010 rods.

Martin

[performance]

OCV has less to do with the ability to run 7018 as does the actual output while welding. That reading is what you should be concerned about. Have you measured the voltage while welding 6010? BTW 6010 is ONLY DC+. Also if your unit has a VRD, take it off and use it without. That will likely improve things, especially the start. Fleetweld 180's or 35's from Lincoln will do the trick I am sure for most welders. For a 3/32 (2.4 mm) that is about the correct amp range...maybe slightly high.

[DaveO]

I've been trying for ages to get some Lincoln rods, but here in the UK, generally, you can get any rod so long as it's a 6013. Almost every time, I've had to justify why I want a 6010 and why I don't want an "alternative" 6013 instead.

This sounds odd, as though you are trying to convince a salesman at a store to sell you the electrodes that you want. Is that the case? I searched online and sure enough, UK online suppliers sell 6013- if they bother to describe the electrode at all, that is, beyond "mild steel". Glad you were able to find some, eventually!

[Martine]

On an inverter, running 6010 you DO push in. Technique is different for sure from a transformer.

I never knew that; many thanks. That helps explain a great deal. Sp can you whip and pause with a 6010 on an inverter the same way you can with a transformer-rectifier?

Martin

[Rambozo]

I never knew that; many thanks. That helps explain a great deal. Sp can you whip and pause with a 6010 on an inverter the same way you can with a transformer-rectifier?

No, they do not behave the same. I noticed this right off with 6011 on an inverter. 7018 was about the same, but the 6011 was not like a transformer or engine driven welder at all. It's almost backwards in the way arc force and arc length work. Took a little practice to get used to it. I'm sure you will pick it up in no time. I would use the same family of machine you are going to test on, inverter, transformer, or engine driven. Otherwise the differences might be a problem. My favorite used to be engine driven, but now I'm really liking the inverter.