What welding helmet are you using?

[225]

What helmet are you using?

Which helmet would you like to have, if you could buy any one?

I have 2 helmets. One is a fiber standard helmet. Just a cheap, good, non-darkening helmet.

The other is a auto darkening Rhino off of Fleabay.

I would love a nice one. Just so many choices. I would love a big viewing area like my Rhino one.

[DaveO]

Good question for the holidays, if you're looking for an answer to the "What do you want for Christmas" question. I have the entry level auto dark from Northern Tool, very pleased with it. I also kept my old static Jackson widescreen as a backup.

Not to hijack 225's thread, I think this is in line with his original question: when you switch from a low-end hood to a high-end hood, what's the biggest difference you see? What is it that makes the jump worth a fistful of dollars?

[Trip59]

Right now, my newest is a Hobart XVS I got on sale at TSC and painted because it was hideous. Prior to that (and before I got my 200DX) I was using a Hobart XFS fixed shade. Happy with both, the XFS now serves for an assistant helmet, for my kids to learn, for someone to watch (providing I'm within shade 10 safety).

I'd really like a larger view, more sensors, and auto adjust, but I'm going to save my pennies for one of the really nice ones down the road. The XVS serves me fine, has grind mode and cheater clips, sensitivity and delay and an external knob for shade.

[225]

Not to hijack 225's thread, I think this is in line with his original question: when you switch from a low-end hood to a high-end hood, what's the biggest difference you see? What is it that makes the jump worth a fistful of dollars?

Exactly..!

[cbmkr]

HF Red Auto $40.00 it works fine no problems and Old Jackson (1981) Large View

[Trip59]

Not to hijack 225's thread, I think this is in line with his original question: when you switch from a low-end hood to a high-end hood, what's the biggest difference you see? What is it that makes the jump worth a fistful of dollars?

The items I mentioned in the second part of my other post: "I'd really like a larger view, more sensors, and auto adjust, but I'm going to save my pennies for one of the really nice ones down the road. The XVS serves me fine, has grind mode and cheater clips, sensitivity and delay and an external knob for shade."

But to add, what kept me away from the HF/Northern/etc. helmets was a few random late night calls from folks I know asking how to get the sandpaper or little dots out of their eyes when their cheapie autodarks didn't do what they were supposed to. I've seen a number of them fail in person as well. I'm not rich, but I'll spend the extra to get one, and Hobarts have yet to let me down.

[Odyknuck]

I have been using the cheapy Northern Tool auto hood for 5 years with no operational issues othe than the head band has a crack in it. I recently bought a cheapy HF of similar design to the NT and it also works just fine. If you weld every day then I would pony up for the high dollar unit.

[Gerry]

Another Northern Tool helmet user, mine works ok.

[Rambozo]

Checkout the thread on the helmet shootout that jakeru did.

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...hread.php/3560

It convinced me to buy a Jackson TrueSight and I love it.

[cbmkr]

I just picked up 3 Tweco Weldskill WHC41003 Helmets at a great price will give one a try today and see how they work. They have a 9-13 range on darkness and are solar also.

[EchoSixMike]

Lincoln 3350, was part of a package sale deal. Quite happy with it. I've got a couple cheapie autos for loaners and spares. S/F....Ken M

[cbmkr]

I tried the Tweco Weldskill helmet and it worked just fine . Headgear was easy to adjust and comfortable and the tension knobs worked easy. The shade seemed darker than a 13 but with the 9-13 range made it easily adjustable. The 4 sensors had a fast reaction time and it also has an adjustable delay short medium or long to keep the lens dark after finishing welding.

[everlastsupport]

We weld almost daily. My son uses the old HF skull helmet (got it when he was young and just likes it). I use an Everlast Fabricator. We have a large face Jackson for people to watch and 2 other HF helmets and 2 other Everlast helmets.

For me, cheaters and clean lens is key on most helmets.

Would I like to have a Truesight, Viking or Digital Elite, sure. But the prices put me off. Truesight in the $160 range almost got me on ebay.

[225]

What is a cheater?

[cbmkr]

I tried the Tweco Weldskill helmet and it worked just fine . Headgear was easy to adjust and comfortable and the tension knobs worked easy. The shade seemed darker than a 13 but with the 9-13 range made it easily adjustable. The 4 sensors had a fast reaction time and it also has an adjustable delay short medium or long to keep the lens dark after finishing welding.

Interesting after only about an use the reaction time on the hood has slowed and now you are getting a flash when you strike an arc. Will have too see what is going on and Maybe give Tweco a call.

[cbmkr]

After checking with everyone that purchased a helmet from my daughter, only one of the ones we purchased is working properly. I just talked to a Victor rep and got some things to try. There suggestion was charge in direct bright light for 3-4 hours with the protective lens cover off and try again. Seems odd as the adjustable shade works, delay time works but sensitivity knob does not change anything.

As of now she is not offering any of these hoods for sale.

[Toby]

i have a lincoln viking, i love it! the view is huge! mine looks just like the one below, i paid 220 for it from air gas.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...olnElectric%29

[Spike]

Not to hijack 225's thread, I think this is in line with his original question: when you switch from a low-end hood to a high-end hood, what's the biggest difference you see? What is it that makes the jump worth a fistful of dollars?

I use a Jackson NexGen helmet. I love the nexgen. This is my second one. My first helmet got stolen and I bought another to replace it. They've lasted a long time and i've never had a problem, and i'm rough on helmets. I've also got some cheap helmets I keep in the shop for "guest use."
When you step up to a high end helmet, one of the first things I always notice (aside from the fancy digital displays and indicators) is how much lighter the whole thing is, and how the better helmets will situate on your head to reduce neck strain. My Jackson had a bug wide soft plastic ergonomic headband that cups the back of my head and distributes the weight evenly.
Next thing I notice is how amazing the viewing area is. It's big and crisp.when it's light it lightens up brighter than regular sunglasses, and the color of the screen is better. cheap helmets turn everything green, but the nexgen keeps colors when it goes dark, so you can see the color of your metals and weld puddle. This is a big help on stainless, copper, and thin materials, and it also helps reduce eye strain.
at the end of a long day of welding, the last thing you'll notice with a high end helmet is the lack of a head ache. Cheap helmets simply don't darken as fast, as consistently, or as well as the best helmets. After all, there is a reason that a good helmet costs over $400, and it's not just a brand name. For a hobbyist, or someone learning it might not be significant enough to worry about, but for the professional that will spend 8 hours a day just staring into a weld puddle it means a whole heck of a lot!

[zoama]

I really like my 3m Speedglas 9100xx for the light weight, comfortable head gear, large viewing area and side windows. With the side windows you don't have to flip the helmet up all the time.
The sensors have also been infallible so far having a Tig rating of >1 amp. This helmet is a little pricey but well worth it. Go to your local dealer and try one out, you'll see the difference. http://store.cyberweld.com/nespwehe91au.html

[Johnson]

I have a Rhino, an older speedglas, fiber pipefitters syle and a newer Jackson. The optics in the 3m are just as good as the Jackson....and to honest the Rhino is ok too. The biggest problem is the lack of sensors. I kept getting flashed with the two sensor Rhino and 3M. The Jackson fits great and the color/ optics are nice....plus the four sensors have never flashed me. The only bad thing about the Jackson is the tensioners keep loosening on the side and it falls down a lot. Drives me crazy..buy it works well other wise. If money was no object I think I would get a newer speedglas. They are so frickin lite!