New guy with 250ex questions.

[gree box]

Hello everyone. I just recieved my new welder (250ex). I have a few question after using it for the first time.
1. When I switch the power on I get a spark on the left side of the unit inside behind the air vent. Is this normal?

2. I'm using a blue 3/32 tungeston and after welding about an inch I get a ball on the end. I'm running my gas at 7LPM, A/C balance on 65. welding alunimun at .090 thick around 75 amps SR18 torch. What am I doing wrong? Because I'm over 30 amps I'm not putting a point at the end of the tungeston.

3. I'm having a hard time back off on the foot pedal to reduce my amps when things get too hot. Is this foot pedal crap? I had someone watch the amps on the welder and the do drop as i back off but it seems like a light switch. I'm thinking of ordering the USA made on to help me out.

4. Is this the correct part number for a glas lense for this torch CK D4GS332LD?

I watched alot of welding tips and tricks videos on you tube. He convinced me on this unit.

Thanks Jeff

[zoama]

Welcome to the forum.
The spark is normal and is coming from the high frequency points. Turn the AC balance all the way left and only increase it enough to break up the oxidation on the aluminum you're welding at the time. The oxidation layer can be broken up at lower power for a few seconds where you start and then give it enought to start the puddle. With 2% lanthanated tungsten you should be able to hold a point in the range you're welding. Your torch uses CK 3 series parts if that's what you want.

[Winky]

Set your frequency at 100 and your balance at 30% Everlast is not like Miller or Lincoln which have a starting point of 70% ... it's like the balance knob is backwards ... if you have your balance at 65% you will just fry your tungsten.

[jakeru]

Hello everyone. I just recieved my new welder (250ex). I have a few question after using it for the first time.
1. When I switch the power on I get a spark on the left side of the unit inside behind the air vent. Is this normal?

Congrats on the 250EX purchase.

I could see some spark being audible (and maybe visible there) when the arc starting (also known as "high frequency") is working, but this should normally *not* happen the instant you switch the unit on, (assuming you are not doing something strange like holding down the footpedal or torch switch while switching the unit on). Normally, the high frequency should only kick in when the footpedal or torch switch is engaged and the arc has not yet been established. If your machine is not behaving this way, you might want to call Everlast support to verify and troubleshoot the problem.

2. I'm using a blue 3/32 tungeston and after welding about an inch I get a ball on the end. I'm running my gas at 7LPM, A/C balance on 65. welding alunimun at .090 thick around 75 amps SR18 torch. What am I doing wrong? Because I'm over 30 amps I'm not putting a point at the end of the tungeston.

A ball is not necessarily a problem, especially if it's small. But if it bothers you, set the A/C balance towards less cleaning. I would recommend perhaps 25%-35% EP for a more general purpose aluminum welding setting. (That would be where the AC balance knob on your machine is turned nearly all the way counter-clockwise.)

3. I'm having a hard time back off on the foot pedal to reduce my amps when things get too hot. Is this foot pedal crap? I had someone watch the amps on the welder and the do drop as i back off but it seems like a light switch. I'm thinking of ordering the USA made on to help me out.

The Everlast pedals can be perfectly effective, but often seem to need a little tweaking to get them working at optimal. When you friend watched the digital display, how far back did the amps reduce from wide open throttle to just before the arc terminated? You could likely make some easy adjustments inside the pedal to increase this range. And it is necessary when welding aluminum properly to be able to taper off the current substantially when welding aluminum.

If you don't feel like messing with it (or want the lower profile style), the aftermarket USA made foot pedal could be a good route to go if you don't mind spending the $.

4. Is this the correct part number for a glas lense for this torch CK D4GS332LD?

That is a very expensive, specialty setup that I wouldn't recommend for someone such as yourself starting out. It would be a good setup if you are interested in doing very limited welds on titanium, which is very expensive material so difficult to justify for most applications. Due to how large it is, to properly use it for most applications (e.g., aluminum and steel), you're going to be wasting a lot of gas. It may have some benefit on stainless but I'd start with a standard diameter (with no larger than a #8 cup size) gas lens first.

I'd recommend an industry standard gas lens setup, which your local welding supply (where you get your shielding gas replaced) should have in stock for a fraction of what that large diameter glass gas saver setup costs. Before splurging on a lot of torch components for your WP18, consider whether you wish to upgrade your torch to a different, more compact style (such as a WP20 or similar) which would require different torch components. In any event, the 250EX should be watercooled, to get the most out of it. Don't run a watercooled torch dry unless you don't mind ruining the torch and its leads.

Hope this helps!

[Skeeter]

Great Idea. Although I couldnt get it to fit the paper when I printed one. Might be a setting but couldn't find size adjustment.

[Rambozo]

Great Idea. Although I couldnt get it to fit the paper when I printed one. Might be a setting but couldn't find size adjustment.

Since it's a jpg, you will have to control the printed size with whatever application you use to print it. Most browsers should be able to auto size it. If you set the paper to landscape, the aspect ratio will fit.

[gree box]

I do have the watercooler set up from Everlast.

When I turn on the breaker with nothing in my hand I see and hear the spark comming from the seventh air slot from the bottom. This is on the left side viewing from the front. I hope I don't have to send this back. I ordered this in November 30th and just got it on Wednesday! The short story is wrong unit sent to me, forgot to send the correct one out, opened box it was broken, set it back for repair got half of it fixed... you get the idea.

When I watched the welding tips and tricks video I took notes and that's where I got the 65% balance from. I get what your saying about it being backwards. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

When I back off the pedal alittle bit it seems to cool my weld puddle quickly to where I add filler rod and it lays in a ball next to my nice weld.

I'm going to put more time on this tomorrow to see how I do.

Thanks again Jeff

[Rambozo]

Adding filler also cools off the puddle. You need to let the puddle melt the filler, not the arc. It takes some practice to learn how to do that. Torch angle has a lot to do with it, too. Try to keep the torch more vertical at first. Then add filler to the puddle when it is starting to become a depression in the base metal. You might also open up the arc gap at that time, by about .030" so that as the puddle takes in the filler it doesn't grow into the tungsten. By setting the panel control to just at or a little over your expected weld current, you will have more control with the pedal over a longer range.

That sparking doesn't sound right. I would give support a call. You might have something loose that needs tightening. Unfortunately shipping can be a little rough on these machines.

[Paul Moir]

My 225LX gives a quick little pip on the HF when I power it on, which generates a visible spark across the points as is normal. It's about where you describe it from memory. Honestly I never thought much of it. Mine's running 208v but otherwise is a normal setup.

But do give them a call and see what they think.

[Kempy]

If anyone wants it as PDF PM me and I will send it to you. Sence I can't put it on the forum yet.

[jakeru]

If you are really able to back the current off with your footpedal (while still maintaining the arc) sufficiently so that the puddle completely solidifies, while also having the machine set up to quickly form the puddle at the start (in, say, 1-2 seconds max without the material being preheated), then that is IMO, about as good as you can expect to have your footpedal set up.

If the issue is that the puddle solidifies unexpectedly, then the fix is obvious: be more sensitive with your foot, and just don't let off it as abruptly. To accomplish this, you may need to change your seating position, or the location of your footpedal, to be able to "feather" the footpedal more accurately.

If, however, you actually still have a puddle, but are describing a different problem of the end of your filler rod melting before being able to reach it into the puddle, that is a different problem. First, consider what Rambozo advised regarding not using too much torch angle. Additionally, you may be experiencing a problem with arc stability, such as due to your AC balance being set to an excessive amount of %EP. Regarding AC balance settings, don't confuse %EP (percentage of electrode positive) with %EN (percentage of electrode negative). It sounds like you got them mixed up, which is a very common mistake.

Don't expect to be able to be "great" at TIG welding very quickly. It requires developing a good deal of coordination between both hands, eye, and foot (for current control) and practice time, to get good. At first you will need to be thinking of a lot of things. Only after a good deal of practice, will it come natural, and seem to be easy. Learning how to set things up properly, (and learning to recognize when they aren't properly set up, and how to make the necessary adjustments), is also a big part of it.

[Skeeter]

Got it. "landscape" did the trick.

[performance]

I do have the watercooler set up from Everlast.

When I turn on the breaker with nothing in my hand I see and hear the spark comming from the seventh air slot from the bottom. This is on the left side viewing from the front. I hope I don't have to send this back. I ordered this in November 30th and just got it on Wednesday! The short story is wrong unit sent to me, forgot to send the correct one out, opened box it was broken, set it back for repair got half of it fixed... you get the idea.

When I watched the welding tips and tricks video I took notes and that's where I got the 65% balance from. I get what your saying about it being backwards. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

When I back off the pedal alittle bit it seems to cool my weld puddle quickly to where I add filler rod and it lays in a ball next to my nice weld.

I'm going to put more time on this tomorrow to see how I do.

Thanks again Jeff

Not trying to sound harsh here, but you need to go back and listen to the video again. He doesn't say to use 65% but he does make a distinction.

[gree box]

OK so I confused about AC balance. The video says 65% EN. Does that mean the second yellow knob is set an 65% for welding aluminum or any other material?

Got welding on Sunday. Boxed .120 wall to 1/4 Aluminum plate. I set my amperage at 200 and 35% AC balance. Did not have as many problems with balling the tungeston, and was able to work the foot pedal alot better. Put a sheet of rubber diamond plate on the bottom to keep it from sliding around. Some of the welds did not come out as pretty so I put a pass over it and made it looks nice. I'm not sure if that works for aluminum or not?

I'll get some pics up soon. Thanks for the help so far

Jeff

[Rambozo]

OK so I confused about AC balance. The video says 65% EN. Does that mean the second yellow knob is set an 65% for welding aluminum or any other material?

Everlast machines balance controls are % EP so you need to change the percentage you would use from Miller or Lincoln. So 65% EN = 35% EP. It's just a brand difference, one of those things that you have to learn about your particular machine. Like because Everlast uses metric flowmeters you will use liters per minute instead of cubic feet per hour. You will often run into information in the US that talks about CFH and European info that talks LPM. At least for that one, the conversion is pretty easy. Double LPM to get approximate CFH, or cut CFH in half to get approximate LPM.

Sounds like you are getting there, it just takes practice. Yes, you can go over a bead a second time to help even things out and add filler for just the places that need a little more. One thing about aluminum though, if you get the workpiece too hot, things will go bad in a hurry. So if you are welding something over and over, you might need to stop and let it cool down some before welding more on it. Aluminum is sensitive to heat if it's too cold it's hard to weld, and if it's too hot it is too. There is a sweet spot where it's just great. I think it's about 200 - 300°F where everything just works.

[gree box]

If I need more cleaning action do I turn the knob clockwise or counterclockwise on AC balance?

[performance]

Clockwise...if you'll notice the big + mark...toward that mark to indicate the polarity in charge of cleaning (EP). Again, the video doesn't say 65% on ours...he makes a distinction. About 6:30 and further...here: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...-settings.html

[gree box]

Is that video 2? I did notice that in video 1 his ac balance knob does not have the same markings nor the + or - signs that mine has. He has the dial set around 11:00 area.

[performance]

Same knob. Marks are there.

[Winky]

When I found the optimum settings for most stuff on mine I took a sharpie and put a little dot there so I could tell at a glance were I should be … I know that’s silly … but it helps me see it better.