Project 4 from Agent4573 - Category - Offroad Fabrication

[agent4573]

I picked up a sandrail frame for a project and am going to be building it up over the next few months/years. I figured I would start this thread now and use it as a complete build thread as I make progress. This is what I'm starting with:





The front beam and complete rear end are going away. I picked up a set of A-arms for the front, and 5x5 trailing arms for the back that I need to modify to fit the micro-stub 930 cv's that I want to run. I also picked up a complete 1995 300zx motor for the back of it. Came with all sensors, wiring and ECU, so it should be relatively easy to get it to run. It will need an exhaust fabricated up though, because the headers point the wrong way right now.

The next part of the project was going to be building up a frame jig out of 2x2 steel tube. Just so happens the guy I bought the A-arm from has one made for his rail and he is letting me borrow it. Its a pretty nice 4x10 foot table, all 2x2 inch square tube with leveling feet and castors built in. Will save me at least a couple hundred on tubing and a bunch of time not worrying about making a straight table. I should be able to start cutting and welding in the new frame next week.

EDIT* Also, if anyone needs one, I have a pretty stock 1600 dual port that I'll be selling with the entire IRS and trans in the pic. Let me know and we can make a deal.

[agent4573]

Decided the other frame wasn't even worth trying to save. Designed one myself that should just fit inside my trailer. Started the mock-up in 1/2 inch electrical conduit so I can get an idea of what it looks like without spending real money on tubing yet. 100' of tubing is 17 bucks. The bender cost me the most and was almost 25 bucks in it self, but still worth it. I should be able to finish up the mock-up tonight and go pickup some real tube tomorrow and start cutting and bending.

[youngnstudly]

I like the design of the first frame, but since you're set on getting rid of any traces of VW, starting from scratch will probably be easier since you can put your parts where you want them. Design the frame around the stuff you want to run, so to speak. It's nice you didn't have to build your own jig either. With any horsepower at all, rear engined rails are a lot of fun to drive (and even scarier if one of your "nut job" buddies is behind the wheel!).

Are you actually planning to make this street legal when finished, or just use it as a toy?

[agent4573]

California won't let you reigster buggies for the street, so it'll be just a toy. If I can ever move out of this state, I'll try to get it registered for street use. I wanted to save the old frame, but once i measured out where stuff had to go, it would be a complete hack job to stretch it from a 2 seater in to a 4 seater. I feel safer with solid bars everywhere and not cut and spliced bars running around everywhere.

[youngnstudly]

I had a buddy that was set on building a street legal rail, only to find that California didn't allow that. It was VW powered so he was able to build a legal Manx using his existing components and a VW chassis (lucky for him!). You're absolutely right about being safer with less splices! Can't put a price on your life or health, so it's better to be safe than sorry.

[CGCINC]

Can't wait to see more progress pics!
I have wanted to build a custom buggy for awhile since I have an ATV state park two miles from my shop. They always have "sand" drags up there and some really cool buggies come through

[Odyknuck]

Decided the other frame wasn't even worth trying to save. Designed one myself that should just fit inside my trailer. Started the mock-up in 1/2 inch electrical conduit so I can get an idea of what it looks like without spending real money on tubing yet. 100' of tubing is 17 bucks. The bender cost me the most and was almost 25 bucks in it self, but still worth it. I should be able to finish up the mock-up tonight and go pickup some real tube tomorrow and start cutting and bending.

The Parallelagram cage design will collapse on the first rollover. I would recommend flipping the "B" and "C" pillers to angle towards the "A" piller so your cage is in compression.

[CGCINC]

The Parallelagram cage design will collapse on the first rollover. I would recommend flipping the "B" and "C" pillers to angle towards the "A" piller so your cage is in compression.

How do you know this stuff because I want to learn it??!? Did you go to school or read books or just trial and error and learn along the way!?!?

[Odyknuck]

How do you know this stuff because I want to learn it??!? Did you go to school or read books or just trial and error and learn along the way!?!?

Not to hijack the OPs thread however I have been in the off road arena for over 25 years, racing, trail riding and building Buggys. Your bound to pick up a few tips and tricks along the way lol.

[agent4573]

Planning on "x"ing in the top of the roof, and depending on radiator mounting location, will either box the C or D pillars. Also going to put a Y in the windshield tied into the front suspension points. Not going to x the "b" pillar, but I am going to gusset the a,b and c pillars with 3/16 plate, prolly just a simple triangle gusset with ~3 inch legs. If I take the b pillar vertical, it only leaves me with like 14 inches across the mid-rail to get into and out of the back seat. I know its a small car, but thats a little too tight. Leaving it at an angle gives me about 18 inches for both front and rear seats.

[agent4573]

The Parallelagram cage design will collapse on the first rollover. I would recommend flipping the "B" and "C" pillers to angle towards the "A" piller so your cage is in compression.

The rear mid-crossbar has been moved back around 6 inches so the rear cage arms now come down at an angle like you suggest. Also, what isn't shown is that there will be an engine section added on to the rear so it will also have arms coming backwards at ~45 degrees off the top of the roll cage to tie it in as well. The "B" pillar can't be flipped because you won't be able to get in or out of the back seat, but the "C" and "D" pillars if you will will have the correct angles to suppost the cage properly.

EDIT* The "B" pillar has also been brought closer to the verticle for better support as well.

[Odyknuck]

Ok, Good to here as i do not want to see anyone hurt. Can you at least make the "B" piller vertical? Are you going to "X" brace the "B" and/or "D" pillers?