Aluminum exhaust manifolds

[jtybt]

I guess my photobucket links got changed around so I'll re-post them

[Oleg]

I will post a link to a boating site with the pixs. I hope it ain't against forum rules.


http://www.boated.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=135650

Hello Charlie

nice work !!!

[jtybt]

Hey Oleg, Called today but you were out. I got questions about generators.

What would be needed to run my 225LX and a power plasma 50 and do you have a generator that can be run of the diesel motor in a truck?

Oh! That was my first project trying aluminum. Works great.

[britstef]

hey there i just made 2 exhaust tips for my f30 trojan sportfisher with my 200lx and powerplasma50 and plan on doing ss water jacketed manifolds for my 2 chrysler 318 225 hp fresh water cooled engines and i got a pair of headers and will try figure a way to do it any suggestions would be great

[jtybt]

Those tips look identical to mine 'cept I put flappers on.

I added a pix of my risers/water jacketed exhaust system when I had to open the mounting holes a little.

My next project on the exhaust will be the exhaust manifolds. I'm thinking of trying to find SS exhaust headers pre-assembled so I can make the water jackets. Gonna have to modify things as I go along. Probably won't start that project this season. Need some water time.

[britstef]

im looking at making some thing similar to these at hitek marine headers for my engines and have you taken a look at these and the video i think they r great and that way i can elimate these buldgy wet mufflers

[jtybt]

I think HiTek manifolds are great ideas. I talked to them a lot. In the end, I figured I could make them for less and stop the water reversion I was getting.

Also, I ended up making 3 different exhaust risers/exhaust systems. One problem was noise and no help from water reversion with an 'add-on' to the stock riser. That's when I started making full water jacketed riser and baffeling system. So far, so good. The only water getting in the manifolds are condensation...which can't be stopped. It's just a natural result of cooling.

Let me know if you find a nice set of short SS headers for small-block chevys?

...either that, or I gotta buy a tubing bender...which I'm considering.

[britstef]

noise doesnt bother me but excites me since im deaf just like my harley with drag pipes and ss super carb and i got 2 sets of headers from older model engines and will use them and my bender to make header system going up like hi tek then going down at a 110 degree angle straight out to the tips with flappers so the only problem ill have is the condestation inside the system between the headers and the flappers but thats better than every thing else dont you agree let me know what you think

[jtybt]

I had drag pipes but got stopped too much and the SS were just expensive. I got an SU back in '70 and still have them.

Unless you have SS exhaust, they won't last if you run in salt water.

...and the secret to preventing water reversion is keeping the exhaust separated from the raw water (keep it water jacketed) as far as possible from the heads. Mines are over 36" 'down wind'. Also you should baffle the exhaust to break up the exhaust harmonics/resonance and 'suck back' from valve overlap.

[britstef]

ok im getting what ur trying to say and i have freshwater cooling system on mine so ill just use the headers from my older car and cut off 2 inches from the flange and then make the rest out of stainless steel and the jacket will be welded on to the stainless part of the piping created out of stainless away from the steel header part and it should last for a while

[jtybt]

It's just not going to be worth the time and effort to used cast-iron exhaust manifolds or even steel headers. Use SS headers. You can make the exhaust FWC and design the fresh water and raw water separation anywhere you like...but, the raw water is generally a lot cooler so keeping the riser section raw water cooled as in a stock set up has merit.

There's more to the design than you think. The raw water can't be allowed to run thru the exhaust. It will drain too fast and create HOT spots. The raw water has to be held within the raw water jacket by closing the outflow by about 90%.

A good model...study the out-flow ports of stock risers.

[britstef]

ok any pictures or drawings would be help ful and you can send em to me at balbertson@sprint.blackberry.net and would be much appreciated because there are several ways of building them and mine is a shaft drive so it will be running about 6 feet from exhaust tips to the manifolds and so any suggestions would help

[mojojo]

ok any pictures or drawings would be help ful and you can send em to me at balbertson@sprint.blackberry.net and would be much appreciated because there are several ways of building them and mine is a shaft drive so it will be running about 6 feet from exhaust tips to the manifolds and so any suggestions would help

Hi britstef, this link has a lot of Stainless steel exhaust parts
you can weld.
http://www.burnsstainless.com/INDEX.aspx

This site is geared to builders cheaper prices
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/

[britstef]

thanks for sending these sites they seem help ful and ill be making most of everything my self and ill show yall the progress once i get the header flanges

[jtybt]

Let me know where you get the flanges for the head side. They will be on small-block chevys and looked like yours.

[mojojo]

thanks for sending these sites they seem help ful and ill be making most of everything my self and ill show yall the progress once i get the header flanges

I would love to see pics of those, Sounds like a fun project.
Lots of work.do you have a pipe bender? I think I have a link
to a homade bender hereit is.
http://www.pro-tools.com/200k.htm

[britstef]

yes i have a gardner bender one shot bender that makes perfect bends without wrinkles