Project 4 from Youngnstudly. Catergory: Custom welded Shop tools and improvements

[youngnstudly]

I'm sorry if the number of pics is a problem, I'm running around like a chicken with my head cut off! I am on day 17 of this stupid cold, which really isn't helping matters (at least I have antibiotics and prescription cough syrup though!)!

Okay, so I'm sliding in sideways here with my final entry. My portable band saw has been a great tool for me, but I always wanted to convert it to a vertical band saw by purchasing the SWAG off-road portable band saw stand. I finally decided that money has been far too tight for purchases like that, and I would be better off making my own stand.

I started out with 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" EMT conduit scraps that worked out perfectly for dimensions. The front "leg" is 1-1/4" conduit that I had to weld a small section onto (to get the proper length). Everything was coped using a hole saw, and at times, my sheet metal snips. All the caps that are welded onto the ends are 16 gauge galvanized sheet that I cut with my snips too. The front rest where the saw sits is 1/8" flat stock with 5/16" diameter steel rod formed and welded to the flat stock. The gussets in the corners are 1/8" thick hot rolled steel and the bolt on sides that secure the band saw's handle to the stand are 1/4" aluminum.

The machine screws that fasten those aluminum plates to the stand are threaded into 5/16" thick hot rolled steel that I drilled and tapped (before welding to the conduit and the 1/8" flat stock that matches the saw's handle shape). All fasteners used on this project are 6mmx1.00 pitch except for the 10mm stainless screw that secures the trigger hold down. Fasteners can easily be changed out or swapped later if need be.

The removable aluminum jig saw table is a cheap purchase from Ebay, and the only other item I had to purchase was the adjustable feet on the bottom, which thread into 1/4"x20 TPI flange nuts that are welded to the conduit. A short piece of 1-3/8" OD stainless tubing was welded to flat stock that fastens to the jig saw table via tapped bosses on the tables underside. An electric sewing machine motor hanger holds the table in place until I want to remove it, which means removing one simple clip and pulling the pin (motor hanger) out.

The most complex part of this project was the trigger and handle hold down, which consists of misc. stainless plumbing fittings that are 1/2" and 3/4" trade sizes. The U-bend is 1/2" OD stainless tubing which I cut and added a stainless plumbing coupler to (in order for the bend to be the right width). The slotted portion that is welded to the U-bend is another piece of stainless tubing (3/4" diameter?) that I formed into an oval shape in the vise. Leftover sections of the 3/4" tubing were used to "box" the open part of the slot, plus the open ends.

Lastly, the mount on the left rear of the stand is made of 1" diameter stainless tubing that I shaped into an oval so the bolt head would fit snugly before welding. I covered the top of the mount using a flat washer, I fit a sleeve of 1/2 stainless tubing over the bolt to shim things the proper amount so there wouldn't be a chance of tightening down too much. I don't want to crack the band saw's handle or break the trigger!

[jakeru]

That's pretty slick looking... nice work! Got any overall picture of the saw mounted into it, ready to a cut?

[youngnstudly]

That's pretty slick looking... nice work! Got any overall picture of the saw mounted into it, ready to a cut?

Sorry, I was in the middle of adding more pics when you posted. I appreciate the compliment! I worked my butt off on this, and was basically shooting in the dark. I knew what I wanted, but I had to change things around as I went. Pretty much the standard when fabricating from one little vision of the end result that's embedded in your brain.

I forgot to add that one "hurdle" that I ran across was snapping a stainless socket head screw off while removing the aluminum plates! I wasn't happy about that and ended up having to heat the screw up and using a little wax to coax it out with Vise Grips. I wasn't about to use anti-seize before painting the stand (as that stuff ends up EVERYWHERE before the cap is placed back on the bottle!).

I was able to find a few more pics of fit up, and developing the needed patterns from sheet metal for mock up.

As you can see, the stand breaks down easily so the saw could be used freehand...But it probably won't once I get the stand painted and everything put together! The stand's dimensions allow me to fit this stand (with the band saw attached) into my job box at the end of the day without trouble. I forgot to show a pic of the plug that fills the hole in the jig saw table. It's just a simple piece of 1/4" aluminum.

The best part of this project was the fact I used the saw and stand while I build the stand! The better part is that as of now I am DONE with it, and done posting pics and typing about it for now! My cold cough syrup has me seeing cross-eyed and blurring right now!

[Trip59]

That's awesome! I've been sitting here for the last three weeks trying to come up with a design (remember my rebuild of a similar Milwaukee?) Could I trouble you for a snap or two of the lower receiver? That's been the part I can't figure out, lip on one side, but there's a slope on the other...

[youngnstudly]

That's awesome! I've been sitting here for the last three weeks trying to come up with a design (remember my rebuild of a similar Milwaukee?) Could I trouble you for a snap or two of the lower receiver? That's been the part I can't figure out, lip on one side, but there's a slope on the other...

Trust me, it took me a million years to figure out that design! I started off by noting that the saw would stand on it's own (assuming the surface was completely flat), so I thought I'd just bend up some material to support it that would connect to the conduit. I actually forgot about the saw standing up (on it's own) for half a day, and it was still standing when I came back.

Anyways, the main base is 2" wide 1/8" flat bar that has a flange bent up on the back, and I have 5/16" steel rod welded on both sides to act as guides so the saw "drops into place." The rod didn't show up well in the pics though.

[Trip59]

Trust me, it took me a million years to figure out that design! I started off by noting that the saw would stand on it's own (assuming the surface was completely flat), so I thought I'd just bend up some material to support it that would connect to the conduit. I actually forgot about the saw standing up (on it's own) for half a day, and it was still standing when I came back.

Anyways, the main base is 2" wide 1/8" flat bar that has a flange bent up on the back, and I have 5/16" steel rod welded on both sides to act as guides so the saw "drops into place." The rod didn't show up well in the pics though.

Cool, came through fine, I see what you've done, don't mind if I adapt your concept, do you? I've been planning a stand like this, as well as a horizontal table conversion. I'll let you know once that design is worked out, it'll be set up with an auto-off switch, counterweight, etc. Should be a fun project.

[youngnstudly]

I was really wracking my brain trying to come up with a design to make this saw stand horizontal, but as you mentioned, counterweights need to be used and I simply didn't want to come up with that much design on my own (too much work). I was trying to use an old chop saw base with the clamp arrangement, but it was really driving me crazy thinking of how to attach the saw. I did purchase an on/off foot pedal for this stand that I forgot to include it in the pics.

I also have some aluminum channel for the table so I can use a miter gauge later on, but I have to wait until I get a welder that I can tig aluminum with. I incorporated a VW aluminum degree pulley into my miter gauge design, but again, no way to weld the aluminum. That's the reason I had to drill and tap the aluminum that I used on this project.

I look forward to seeing your idea in action! I love seeing other creative people building things that nobody else has. It gives me ideas for future projects.

[Trip59]

I was hoping to start on it this weekend, took a day off to work on some things, spent half the day looking into Boss Hoss electrical problems, now looks like my Saturday is spent on it as well...

The design is from all raw stock, I don't have anything to work into it, though I did think about some old miter boxes. The main thing I'm stuck on now is determining what I want to do for the pivot; bearings, Delrin, bronze, etc. Maybe just steel on steel, it's pretty slow moving and little load.

[youngnstudly]

Yeah, I know how you feel! I've had this nasty cold keeping me indoors and it's driving me crazy! My last 2-1/2 weeks have been spent doing almost nothing! Only so much internet and Jerry Springer/Two and a half Men episodes I can watch in one day!

I often find that it's easier to make something from scratch completely, rather than try to incorporate something that's pre made into your design. That's the reason I scrapped the chop saw base idea. I like working with a blank canvas (so to speak). No rules or criteria that limit you!

How big is the diameter of your pivot going to be? Sealed bearings would work well...which reminds me that I have a TON of needle bearings (left over from transmission rebuilds) that I just found the other day in my shed. How can I put these to use on my next project? What is my next project, anyways? I need practically everything!

[Trip59]

Well... that's part of the problem, looking at what I have on hand and what I can get my hands on easily. I'm planning, and y'all call me crazy, to design it where it can pivot, compound horizontal bandsaw just sounds like a great project! I have an old 5th wheel receiver I was going to scavenge some steel from, but it found another calling as a base to jig up my '84 chop for a frame jig. Pivot will probably start as a piece of 15/16 bar I have, I'm amazed it's lasted as long as it has... either that or one of the 1" bolts I have laying around, I think I have an extra 5" one, they just turn soooo nice. The base, as well as the clamp pieces are starting out as part of an 8' bar of 3x1/4" angle I have on hand, the vise will either tighten via a long bolt, or I may turn an acme or square thread for it, I haven't done one in a while and am itching. It WILL incorporate a quick release though, I love them and have been wanting to make one from scratch for a while.

For a real fun project, I've been thinking of building a large, like 16x9 or so horizontal saw. Trying to figure out what to use for the wheels, only thing I have on hand are a set of 11" rotors off a Camaro, I'd rather have them 16-18" in diameter though, else it may only have a 6-8" depth.

I'm not short on projects, that's for sure. I have about 6 open projects now, picked up the Boss Hoss wiring, may wind up doing a carb rebuild and body reinforcement on it. Got a rollpan in a week or two, several more brackets for the Pete, as well as a full set of 4 new boxes for it, a transmission jack, bottle to rolling jack conversion. Those are the client jobs as of right now, 4-5 more personal projects as well including a new tubing bender design so I can bend up the frame components for the bike as well as start manufacturing some Pete/Kenworth parts. No $$$ for a bender to handle 3" stainless tube, figure I can build one for about $100-$150. should be a fun couple months.

[youngnstudly]

One of my next projects is to make a bench vise, followed by an adjustable stool for tig welding, plus I already have 100 projects going. Your tubing bender sounds like a good project! I'd like to see the end results of that.

So I managed to get the band saw stand sanded and painted yesterday, but it was still too wet last night to handle. It turned out okay considering I ran low on spray paint. For some reason I have like 20 cans of spray paint that are only 1/2-1/4 full, yet I won't throw them out (they're still good, right?)! I was planning on the textured silver showing up better, but the 2 coats I sprayed on were pretty thin in order to get everything covered evenly (and still make my stamped initials show up...The letters "EMT" are not my real initials, BTW!).

I found a brand new aftermarket urethane shift coupler for one of my VW projects and decided that it would work well as a stop on my saw stand. Had to coax it to the right shape using my flap disc (which is now contaminated heavily with chunks of red urethane-go figure!).

Now to get back to the other 99 projects I have going!