What am I doing wrong???

[Toby]

I have a powertig 200dx. Finally got my garage wired up and started messing around welding stuff up. I am have a couple issues though. When welding steel I get this orange coloration around the edges. It's more a soot than anything. See pic below. Next when welding aluminum I can get the arc to focus. It jumps around and leaves this black spotting. Any help or info is appreciated. I have tried different gas, tungeston, made sure everything is clean with acetone.

[sportbike]

Clean teh aluminum with an abrasive.

You do have the torch in the negative right?
and using straight Argon as a shielding gas?


What settings are you using for the steel?

What settings are you using for the aluminum?

[Paul Moir]

On the steel: did you dip the tungsten at all, that is to say let the tungsten come in contact with the weld puddle or rod? If you do, you'll get a blast of crap like that.

Otherwise, it's obviously contamination from somewhere. Try a fresh ground peice of steel on it's flat to rule out contamination of the material. Use a fresh disc if you have one so you know it's not coming from there. Next check your hoses, torch (cap) and connections for signs of leaks. Suspect bad gas as well.

Flow rate right? (Everlast flow gauges are in LPM, not CFH!!)

Those little balls shouldn't be there. TIG is very clean if the metal is.

[everlastsupport]

Make sure all the hose connections and back torch cap/nozzle are tight. Looks like air might be getting in or you might have bad or wrong gas (happens, but rare).

Also, you mentioned "the garage". Is there any air movement (fan, wind, etc). If using our flow gauge, set it around LPM, set to 7 and see how it works, work "up" from there.

Also, as stated, with TIG, metal must be clean, don't touch the tungsten on the metal, clamp on positive side , straight argon gas.

[Toby]

Ill try the suggestions. Yes the torch and ground is correct, i tried different methods to cleaning including acetone, laquer thinner, brake cleaner etc. different pieces of steel, played with gas flow. I suspect possible bad gas myself. Thanks for the info ill report back.

[zoama]

Ill try the suggestions. Yes the torch and ground is correct, i tried different methods to cleaning including acetone, laquer thinner, brake cleaner etc. different pieces of steel, played with gas flow. I suspect possible bad gas myself. Thanks for the info ill report back.

Never use brake cleaner or any chlorinated solvent in welding, it will kill you.

[everlastsupport]

Toby,

PM me a phone number and time you are at the machine tomorrow (that would be Sunday). I will call you (as long as you are in the USA) and get you going. Or call me at me my toll free number below in the sig.

Most brake cleaners are safe now, so do no panic. Use denatured alcohol and acetone are the best choice though. Do not use brake cleaner.

[performance]

Some, but not all. Still not a good practice...because sometimes they change formulations even though the ingredient lists say other wise. Seriously one drop of residual brake cleaner when the welding arc hits it will kill you stone cold dead...painfully.

[everlastsupport]

Good point Mark, I know I have a 15-20 year old case of starting fluid still around (not for cleaning welds or anywhere near the welders. hahaha). So someone could have old brake cleaner from the past.

[nikstiks]

Some, but not all. Still not a good practice...because sometimes they change formulations even though the ingredient lists say other wise. Seriously one drop of residual brake cleaner when the welding arc hits it will kill you stone cold dead...painfully.

What from? an explosion or from the gas vapors?

[Toby]

Thanks guys, yeah the brake cleaner i used was non-chlorinated. I am pretty confident its a bad tank of gas. I plan to get a new bottle on wednesday. If the same results show up i will give you a call Mike. I tried the suggestions today with no change. I am also going to buy a new set of tungeston just to rule both those items out.

[Rectified]

Thanks guys, yeah the brake cleaner i used was non-chlorinated. I am pretty confident its a bad tank of gas. I plan to get a new bottle on wednesday. If the same results show up i will give you a call Mike. I tried the suggestions today with no change. I am also going to buy a new set of tungeston just to rule both those items out.

On the steel, I have caused that to happen by touching the filler metal to the tungsten and having pulled the torch back causing to long of an arc. The aluminum, I have seen that when only on dc.

[everlastsupport]

Thanks guys, yeah the brake cleaner i used was non-chlorinated. I am pretty confident its a bad tank of gas. I plan to get a new bottle on wednesday. If the same results show up i will give you a call Mike. I tried the suggestions today with no change. I am also going to buy a new set of tungeston just to rule both those items out.

The bad gas issue pops up sometimes. No one quite knows how, but looks like moisture gets in the tanks. I have not done it, but some people have a desiccant filter after the regulator. Not sure how well it works. If you can swap tanks at the LWS, and they swap with no issues, that is probably the problem and they have had it before. Otherwise, let us know.

[Winky]

The suggestions stated are valid ... basic settings a crucial as well for aluminum set on ACEN with a starting balance around 30% and frequency set around 100 HZ ... No pulse ... proper gas flow and it looked like the aluminum wasn't prepped properly ... remember when you dress down the aluminum do not use abrasive that has been used on any other metal you WILL contaminate it ... and very important make sure the brush you use is SS not ferric steel and ONLY use it on aluminum. As for mild steel ... DCEN and proper prep ... with TIG always remember the three c's and the three p's CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN ... PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. It will come together for you just stay with it.

[Toby]

Looks like it was just the gas. I welded some steel today, no residue and a nice clean weld. Ill try out the aluminum tomorrow and report back.

[Winky]

Looks like it was just the gas. I welded some steel today, no residue and a nice clean weld. Ill try out the aluminum tomorrow and report back.

Outstanding ... good luck with the aluminum ... it can be a challenge … remember it's the most persnickety thing you can weld when it comes to cleanliness. Redress your tungsten watch the setting.

[Toby]

thanks for the help guys! I was able to build a couple catch cans for my truck that i just finished an ls1 swap in. It amazing how much better and smoother it welds with the correct gas.. haha..





Also what do you guys think about using green tungeston on aluminum? I have been using red and it works well, but my uncle who works at air gas, told me his customers like the green better. thoughts??

[zoama]

thanks for the help guys! I was able to build a couple catch cans for my truck that i just finished an ls1 swap in. It amazing how much better and smoother it welds with the correct gas.. haha..

Also what do you guys think about using green tungeston on aluminum? I have been using red and it works well, but my uncle who works at air gas, told me his customers like the green better. thoughts??

Green is for the old transformers... never use that with your inverter machine. Red or light blue (2% lanthanated) work well for everything.

[sw2x]

Green is only for use on transformer welders with aluminum. In ac.

Its not recommended for inverter machines. ive found lanthanated the best for aluminum on my 225 lx eith the gold or blue band.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

[Toby]

kool thanks for the advice guys! Ill be sticking with red.