What am I doing wrong???

[Toby]

I have a powertig 200dx. Finally got my garage wired up and started messing around welding stuff up. I am have a couple issues though. When welding steel I get this orange coloration around the edges. It's more a soot than anything. See pic below. Next when welding aluminum I can get the arc to focus. It jumps around and leaves this black spotting. Any help or info is appreciated. I have tried different gas, tungeston, made sure everything is clean with acetone.

[sportbike]

Clean teh aluminum with an abrasive.

You do have the torch in the negative right?
and using straight Argon as a shielding gas?


What settings are you using for the steel?

What settings are you using for the aluminum?

[Paul Moir]

On the steel: did you dip the tungsten at all, that is to say let the tungsten come in contact with the weld puddle or rod? If you do, you'll get a blast of crap like that.

Otherwise, it's obviously contamination from somewhere. Try a fresh ground peice of steel on it's flat to rule out contamination of the material. Use a fresh disc if you have one so you know it's not coming from there. Next check your hoses, torch (cap) and connections for signs of leaks. Suspect bad gas as well.

Flow rate right? (Everlast flow gauges are in LPM, not CFH!!)

Those little balls shouldn't be there. TIG is very clean if the metal is.

[everlastsupport]

Make sure all the hose connections and back torch cap/nozzle are tight. Looks like air might be getting in or you might have bad or wrong gas (happens, but rare).

Also, you mentioned "the garage". Is there any air movement (fan, wind, etc). If using our flow gauge, set it around LPM, set to 7 and see how it works, work "up" from there.

Also, as stated, with TIG, metal must be clean, don't touch the tungsten on the metal, clamp on positive side , straight argon gas.

[Toby]

Ill try the suggestions. Yes the torch and ground is correct, i tried different methods to cleaning including acetone, laquer thinner, brake cleaner etc. different pieces of steel, played with gas flow. I suspect possible bad gas myself. Thanks for the info ill report back.

[zoama]

Ill try the suggestions. Yes the torch and ground is correct, i tried different methods to cleaning including acetone, laquer thinner, brake cleaner etc. different pieces of steel, played with gas flow. I suspect possible bad gas myself. Thanks for the info ill report back.

Never use brake cleaner or any chlorinated solvent in welding, it will kill you.

[everlastsupport]

Toby,

PM me a phone number and time you are at the machine tomorrow (that would be Sunday). I will call you (as long as you are in the USA) and get you going. Or call me at me my toll free number below in the sig.

Most brake cleaners are safe now, so do no panic. Use denatured alcohol and acetone are the best choice though. Do not use brake cleaner.

[performance]

Some, but not all. Still not a good practice...because sometimes they change formulations even though the ingredient lists say other wise. Seriously one drop of residual brake cleaner when the welding arc hits it will kill you stone cold dead...painfully.

[everlastsupport]

Good point Mark, I know I have a 15-20 year old case of starting fluid still around (not for cleaning welds or anywhere near the welders. hahaha). So someone could have old brake cleaner from the past.

[Big Paulie]

Use great care with starting fluid. Vapors will ignite from the arc. I use Acetone for many purposes, but be aware that it is absorbed quickly through the skin. Recommend well folded rag, and better, a pair of protective gloves. Alcohol is a lot safer, and the fumes are not flammable, as is the case with Ether (starting Fluid).

[everlastsupport]

Use great care with starting fluid. Vapors will ignite from the arc. I use Acetone for many purposes, but be aware that it is absorbed quickly through the skin. Recommend well folded rag, and better, a pair of protective gloves. Alcohol is a lot safer, and the fumes are not flammable, as is the case with Ether (starting Fluid).

Please re-read my post, no where did I mentioned using starting fluid for anything to do with welding. I mentioned Mark was right, someone could have some older brake cleaner (still chlorinated), like my old cans of starting fluid from 1995.

[HemiRod23]

I was welding a nut to a piece of steel, and got very similar colored results. I figured it was some sort of plating on the nut I was using, or in your case maybe the rod. The aluminum looks like a long arc (losing shielding), or maybe air not completely purged from the argon line. Just an idea. Good luck,

[Toby]

Thanks guys, yeah the brake cleaner i used was non-chlorinated. I am pretty confident its a bad tank of gas. I plan to get a new bottle on wednesday. If the same results show up i will give you a call Mike. I tried the suggestions today with no change. I am also going to buy a new set of tungeston just to rule both those items out.

[Rectified]

Thanks guys, yeah the brake cleaner i used was non-chlorinated. I am pretty confident its a bad tank of gas. I plan to get a new bottle on wednesday. If the same results show up i will give you a call Mike. I tried the suggestions today with no change. I am also going to buy a new set of tungeston just to rule both those items out.

On the steel, I have caused that to happen by touching the filler metal to the tungsten and having pulled the torch back causing to long of an arc. The aluminum, I have seen that when only on dc.

[everlastsupport]

Thanks guys, yeah the brake cleaner i used was non-chlorinated. I am pretty confident its a bad tank of gas. I plan to get a new bottle on wednesday. If the same results show up i will give you a call Mike. I tried the suggestions today with no change. I am also going to buy a new set of tungeston just to rule both those items out.

The bad gas issue pops up sometimes. No one quite knows how, but looks like moisture gets in the tanks. I have not done it, but some people have a desiccant filter after the regulator. Not sure how well it works. If you can swap tanks at the LWS, and they swap with no issues, that is probably the problem and they have had it before. Otherwise, let us know.

[Winky]

The suggestions stated are valid ... basic settings a crucial as well for aluminum set on ACEN with a starting balance around 30% and frequency set around 100 HZ ... No pulse ... proper gas flow and it looked like the aluminum wasn't prepped properly ... remember when you dress down the aluminum do not use abrasive that has been used on any other metal you WILL contaminate it ... and very important make sure the brush you use is SS not ferric steel and ONLY use it on aluminum. As for mild steel ... DCEN and proper prep ... with TIG always remember the three c's and the three p's CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN ... PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. It will come together for you just stay with it.

[nikstiks]

Some, but not all. Still not a good practice...because sometimes they change formulations even though the ingredient lists say other wise. Seriously one drop of residual brake cleaner when the welding arc hits it will kill you stone cold dead...painfully.

What from? an explosion or from the gas vapors?

[zoama]

What from? an explosion or from the gas vapors?

It produces phosgene gas that can kill you at a concentration level as low as 4 parts per million and has a pleasant smell.

[weirtech]

get a gas lens. it helps significantly with proper gas coverage, especially with stainless. i haven't welded without one in years.

also, i avoid using any chemicals to clean my material except for a dry rag.

[Toby]

Looks like it was just the gas. I welded some steel today, no residue and a nice clean weld. Ill try out the aluminum tomorrow and report back.