First time Plasma cutter owner review of PP50
I made the decision over my winter layoff (management refers to it as paid vacation) to get a Plasma Cutter for my service truck.
Most of my field fabrication is 1/2" mild steel or AR450 or thinner, and a great deal of weld removal for component repair, and grinding out cracks plain sucks...that is what pushed me to commit to the plasma cutter. My truck welder does not have enough stones to run an air arc rods any bigger than 1/8" and even then it's inconsistent. I've used the shop plasma cutter to gouge out welds and prefer that to oxy/acel (I've developed quite a skill for using it that way though), I just hate the extra grinding after cutting a weld up the middle.
Suggestion to Everlast - update your pictures of the PP50 to show what you are actually getting in the package. The torch comes with a roller guide/stand off - which does not fit the S45 by the way, good thing I ordered one when I made the purchase. I was planning on the simple wire type stand off - wish I had one now. My initial order received was a Super Cut 50 (shipping dept boo boo), and curiosity got the better of me and I looked inside the parts box and the regulator/filter that comes with the SC50 is 3 times better than that itty bitty one with the PP50. PP50 comes with a simple little filter, where as the SC50 has a regulator, gauge (IIRC) and much bigger filter/water separator. I was a little disappointed that the higher end model has a lower grade accessory.
Anyhow - I've used it now for several field fabrication projects and am pleased with the results. Kind of wish I had gone with a 60a but could not justify the expense. The ratings posted for the PP50 are not realistic. Max quality cut, at least by hand is 1/2", and severance is 3/4. It will not do 1" (I've tried). Maybe with a #10 tip it will do the thicker stuff, but all I have is #8, and a lot of them (bought the 75pc consumable - bad choice). Another suggestion for Everlast - Offer a variety pack of 6, 8, and 10 tips! I'd be more than happy to send back the 75pc kit. I am still on the original set of 3 that came with the torch.
Cutting with a plasma is a whole new skill I need to learn. I can do plasma quality cuts with my oxy/acel torch and don't have that much of a problem maintaining proper speed and angle. Plasma on the other hand is a PITA. A little off on the angle and it really shows, and the roller guide - I just can't get the hang of or maintain a constant speed. Hard enough trying to set up the right standoff, and angle, and well, it is just not that secure (READ - you can still get some wobble out of the torch inside the roller guide). I do much better using a 1/4" x 1" piece of strap for a guide and rest the tip of the ceramic cup on top, and the torch tip against the side. Speed is better, but I still get little sections where I snag then break free too fast and get some blowback. At least I don't have to sand/grind off the rust when I have to make good cuts. Amazing how much grief a little rust will cause you when using oxy/acel.
Gouging - Me likey. I know it is only rated for limited use, and you are supposed to use the proper tip - of which I have none of, but the #8s work quite well for washing away welds, and tracing/gouging a crack is not that hard and you can adjust your depth pretty easy by either playing with the settings, or the angle of your torch. I really need to find a #7 shade set of goggles. #9 and you can't see the crack, #4 and you get a little torch blind. #9 for welds is OK, just have to keep checking to make sure you don't wander off the path.
I wish I had time at work to stop and take some pictures of the projects in progress, but I get paid to work, not make photo blogs for the interweb forums.
Really nice to have the ability now to cut metals other than mild steel. Going to be interesting the first time I have to do some pot metal, or what ever the bushing is made of on one of our pieces of equipment. The last guy that had to cut it out (8" diameter x 3" thick, 3" deep) took several hours with a torch, and no way to get a cut off or demo saw in there. All he could do was get it molten then blow a bit out, rinse and repeat. Out to be really fun doing grease loaded pillow bearings. Nothing I work on is small. 3" shaft with a 8" housing is the average. Big bearing.
Going to try to make some template/guides for hole cutting (circle and elongated). Wood has been suggested, so I will need to take some measurements to see what the offset is from the side of the torch tip to kerf is. It looks like it is close to 1/4". I hope it's that simple of a fraction, not some oddball like 7/32". Bolt clearance holes are OK with a little slop, but elongated have to be dead on to match the bolt.
I still need to make a rigid handle for the unit. That nylon strap flat out does not work for me, especially when it's hanging off my crane (sometimes I am way up in the air working, or down in a hole). Hmmm. Might have to make a basket to hold both my plasma and mig.
That's all for now.
Sticks
Field Service Tech for a Concrete Paving Company
Location: The corner of "No" and "Where"
"If they break it, we will fix it"
AKA
"Find some scrap and build a new one"