Aluminum does take practice, it is not as forgiving, but it will make you a better welder in all metals. Clean, clean, clean & practice, practice, practice, as many here will tell you. Aluminum has to be very clean. Use a stainless steel brush that you only use on aluminum, and wipe it down with acetone after. For 1/8" set your amps around 150 and then fine adjust down from that with the pedal. Start with no pulse. Frequency of 100Hz is fine. AC balance start at about 35%. Preflow you only need enough so that the starting blast has settled down. .5 to 1 second is usually enough. Post flow you need a lot more, for 150 amps and a 3/32 tungsten, figure about 10-15 seconds. You want argon flowing anytime your tungsten is red hot, or it will get an oxide layer and that will make the arc unstable and jump all over the place. Don't touch the tungsten into the filler or the base metal. I know, easier said than done, but if you do, you need to re-grind your tungsten to clean off the contamination. Argon of 15-20 CFH is about right with a #7 cup. Be aware that Everlast flowmeters are in liters per minute, not CFH so if that is what you have, cut CFH in half to get LPM, around 7-10 LPM. Stay on 2T for now. 4T is for use with the torch switch and slope controls. Leave them all zeroed out for pedal operation. Go check out weldingtipsandtricks.com for a lot of good videos of proper technique of aluminum welding. When you start it will take a little time and a little more amps to get the puddle started and let the cleaning action break up the oxide layer on the aluminum. but then once it starts to melt, you will need to back down some to avoid getting too much heat. Add the filler to the puddle, try not to let the arc melt it directly.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!