TIG torch replacement parts

[jameslo]

For the different styles of torches that go with the TIG machines, are the consumables and replacement parts standard?

In other words, can I walk into any welding shop and just pick what I need off the shelf, or is there a discussion that goes with it to identify what might fit? I'm thinking of tungsten, gas lenses, cups, replacement pieces, and so on.

Thanks for the insight.

[joshuab]

The main thing you need to know is your torch type: 17, 20, 26, and so forth. After that, consumables are pretty much standard across the board. Tungsten, gas lenses, cups, collets, etc... Whether you will be able to pick up what you need off the shelf depends on how well stocked your LWS is. Personally, I always order from Cyberweld, because of the number of times I have gone into the LWS and found them to be out of stock on something I want (e.g. has 3/32" gas lens, but not collets--that sort of thing). Definitely call ahead.

[joshuab]

A few more thoughts, just in case they're helpful:

When I first got my machine, I ordered tungsten in .040", 1/16", and 3/32". I wanted to have my bases covered. This was silly. The vast majority of a typical hobbyist's welding will be done with 3/32" tungsten. The tungstens are relatively cheap to have a set in each size, but when you start looking at gas lenses and collets and collet bodies... suddenly it gets way more expensive to keep a set of consumables in each size.

Word on the street is that 2% Lanthanated tungsten is a very good general-purpose electrode for both AC and DC welding.

I have also heard that you can use smaller collets on larger collet bodies and/or gas lenses. I've never tried this, but it sort of makes sense that the smaller collet would spread to accept a larger tungsten. I wonder if anybody here could speak as to whether they've done this, because it would help save on consumables if I could buy only one size of collet. I go through very few collets, so having to buy even a five-pack of an off size is money I'd rather spend on something else.

Gas lenses are the bomb. Yes, people weld without them all the time and produce excellent welds. People produce excellent welds with scratch-start, upside down, in a snow storm too. Especially as a beginner, get a gas lens. The additional stickout and better gas coverage will help you a lot. If you are very price-conscious, you can certainly get by with a standard collet body, but a gas lens is nice, and if you are careful to only weld on clean metal (so you don't get spatter up in the lens), it should last you a long time.

And last, but not least: TIG IS ELECTRODE NEGATIVE!!!

Happy welding!

[Rambozo]

I have also heard that you can use smaller collets on larger collet bodies and/or gas lenses. I've never tried this, but it sort of makes sense that the smaller collet would spread to accept a larger tungsten. I wonder if anybody here could speak as to whether they've done this, because it would help save on consumables if I could buy only one size of collet.

Sorta but not like that. You can't use a larger tungsten in a smaller collet. It will not make proper contact to transfer the current one way and the heat the other. However, you can often use a smaller collet with matching tungsten in a larger collet body or gas lens body. While it's not ideal, going that way there is usually enough contact and mass to work for the smaller setup. In fact Anchor stubby kits and some of the Everlast starter kits come with a universal collet body that works for all sizes, but the collets are still matched to the tungsten sizes.

[jameslo]

Ok, good to know. Thanks.

Another question - for the TIG machines that are foot pedal compatible, is there a series of them off the shelf that would work? I hate the word "standard", but for lack of a better term... do they use "standard" pedals?

Thanks again

[Rambozo]

Ok, good to know. Thanks.

Another question - for the TIG machines that are foot pedal compatible, is there a series of them off the shelf that would work? I hate the word "standard", but for lack of a better term... do they use "standard" pedals?

Thanks again

Alias, no. Every manufacturer has their own standard and has even changed them over the years. Both the pedal internals and the plugs vary. Even Everlast has a few different pedal models depending on what machine you have. The closest to a one stop source is http://www.ssccontrols.com as they make high quality pedals for many brands, and is what Everlast sells as the USA pedal.

[joshuab]

Regarding pedals: is it true that, ultimately, the pedal is basically just a pot and a switch? Or are there manufacturers who put more fancy-pants stuff in their pedals (can't imagine what, though)? I've never really understood why manufacturers use 10-pin or 14-pin connectors for pedals, except that the connector is convenient, but then why not use five-pin aircraft and be done? Seems like you basically need three pins for the pot and one more for the switch... but what do I know?

[jameslo]

Good to know. Thanks.

The welding supply houses in the Dallas Ft Worth area are all very well stocked with parts for the red and blue machines. It sounds like whatever works for them will work as well on green ones. That's good to know.

I'd look to get all matching parts and go the gas lens route, if for no other reason than the good things I hear about the gas lenses.

I don't mind having whatever advantage I can get with welding.

[Rambozo]

Regarding pedals: is it true that, ultimately, the pedal is basically just a pot and a switch? Or are there manufacturers who put more fancy-pants stuff in their pedals (can't imagine what, though)? I've never really understood why manufacturers use 10-pin or 14-pin connectors for pedals, except that the connector is convenient, but then why not use five-pin aircraft and be done? Seems like you basically need three pins for the pot and one more for the switch... but what do I know?

For the most fancy-pants stuff packed into a pedal, check out Miller's wireless pedal. Virtually all the others are just a pot and a switch or two. Some use extra pins for different things. Like Everlast adds two pins to tell the machine that the pedal is plugged in, others use the same connector for different things, so they need more pins. Real old Millers used to use two plugs, one three pin for the pot, and one two pin for the contactor, and they were off the shelf twist lock plugs.

[joshuab]

Like Everlast adds two pins to tell the machine that the pedal is plugged in

Waitwhat? So, in theory, I could easily add a switch to cut the pedal out of circuit and not have to constantly unscrew it when I switch from TIG to stick? Pinout diagram please!

EDIT: Well, it should be trivial to find the correct two pins with a jumper wire, but if a pinout is available, I'll take it!

[jameslo]

Thanks. I figured I was on a wing and a prayer with that one.

Like I always say, that's the wonderful thing about standards; there are so many to choose from.

I think the only thing that's standard is a garden hose fitting.

[Mr120]

Waitwhat? So, in theory, I could easily add a switch to cut the pedal out of circuit and not have to constantly unscrew it when I switch from TIG to stick? Pinout diagram please!

EDIT: Well, it should be trivial to find the correct two pins with a jumper wire, but if a pinout is available, I'll take it!

I found this:

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...-pedal-pinouts

Hope it helps.

[joshuab]

I found this:
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...-pedal-pinouts
Hope it helps.

Thanks very much.

[MrBoiler]

[QUOTE=joshuab;48783]
And last, but not least: TIG IS ELECTRODE NEGATIVE!!!
QUOTE]

Yup... Forgot about that today and was cursing the machine, the electrode, the tig handle even my grinder. Then the little light inside me head went on...LOL

Good thing I was just practicing...

[DaveO]

Forgot about that today

No worries, it happens... hopefully just once!