Have me a DX200 110/220, unsure on power requirements still, what's in the box

[budbd]

But yeah, I'll have to do some reading to find out what exactly I need, a wp18 water cooled torch, unsure the rated duty of that, apart from whether or not I need a water cooled torch this year, compounded by the fact I have no idea what I am doing.
I mean, I've done a lot of research into what I need or might need, I guess my acrchilles heel was "what torch/torches" I need, probably should figure it out to maybe save money on shipping. Right now I have no idea what improved lense kit I purchased is for, haha. Great! I love it when a plan comes together, .....for me, that is like after loads of trial and error.

[everlastsupport]

I think rather than nobody TOLD me, just ask and you shall receive. And we have very practical people here on the forum. I posted an old picture of how to bypass a water cooler. We would love to sell you one, but you can get around it for maybe $5 and some items in the shop.

[Rambozo]

A few points:
The water cooler is a minimal power draw, and the welder draws much less than 50 amps, so that will not be an issue. With a one man shop you will probably only be running a few things at a time. 50 amps will run your welder, the lights and should even be ok with an average air compressor coming on. Something that would be impossible with transformer welders. (a 250 amp Miller Syncrowave draws 98 amps plus, while a 205EX is only about 35 amps)

Using the tap water cooling method works very well. I worked at a shop that used that for over 10 years on the same torch with no issues. The actual amount of water used is pretty small, so we just drained it out a hole in the wall and let it puddle in the parking lot. Even after a full day of welding the puddle wasn't an issue. And the water quality wasn't great. A torch mostly has brass and copper wetted components, so unless you have acidic well water, no problem. The corrosion will be comparable to copper pipe, lifespan wise.

You can split up some of your electrical work, to lower the cost, and since you are not totally sure of what your needs are. However, try and pick components that will allow for the most flexibility and future expansion. Like the difference between a panel with 4 breaker spaces and one with 10 is only about $20 and the labor to install either is the same. But it will drastically change the cost of adding more things down the line.

With a welder, a lathe and a mill/drill there isn't much you can't do. Either recondition, or just make a new part from scratch.

[everlastsupport]

For a 250EX, don't consider less than 50 amps. The inrush current is close to that. I do agree on the larger panel as the labor cost will be the same 4 or 10.

We here have used tap water for more than 5 years with the same couple torches. And using well water no less (filtered but not PO level). I would also blow them out or use them on a regular basis to stop bad things from starting quicker on the inside metals.

Of course a water cooler and proper chemicals we recommend. I have a water cooler, just a pain to move it around and maintain it.

[budbd]

Well, back to this "old thread" I figured I answer since folks posted again on this power issue, my estimate for work said my panel would be 50 amp breaker 240volt, new 12 circuit flush mount panel, 4 120 volt 20 amp outlets to be directed to be placed by me the owner, 1 switch at main door, two light fixtures hanging overhead I already have hanging. Oh sure, even if I get a lathe later, I can always unplug items and plug others in. I only need a 220 volt outlet for my plasma pilot arc to be located on the other end of my building so I can cut outside, maybe later in one of those metal garden sheds or such, unless I figure a way to cut indoors, I mean, my building is made of wood ya know, as it was I was thinking about making a work bench area enclosed enough for a table and covered on all sides with plain waferboard with a rear curtain, separated from the rest of the indoor area, though I know tig doesn't splatter like stick arc. And like I said, all labor and such involved, $1444 total for all labor parts and permit. They take power off a sub pole with my meter on it, guess that only has 240volts 60 amps, no surprise there, I suppose if I really wanted three phase, hey, anything is possible in America with enough money, the bigger pole is just to the left carrying bigger power to the neighborhood, but three phase is unnecessary, as it stands at least if I ever move, I could include the building increasing the values, with "beautiful coastal home with backyard workshop 240 volts perfect for all you out artists there who might want to run a kiln for pottery or such"(ha, I had better make sure the shop don't get trashed inside irreversibly, or I'll be doing all sort of work to spruce it up before any sale, like if I get off the coast of Oregon and go somewhere inland, they worry us with tsunami drills all the time.

On the cooling issue, for coolant cooling torch, of course, I'm starting to feel the pinch of monetary matters, I could do the water hose thing, or draw out another additional amount of mony to cover a water cooler, winter is coming, and I might just spare money for a cooler and stick try out the wp18 like I said in my new other thread, or get a really good air cooled torch and keep the amps down and run water hose through the cooled torch for the moment I am sure sometime in the future next year that I weld thick metals, ya know, I do realize I won't be likely welding every single day, its more of a spare time hobby, I should have put power out there already when I moved in/had the building delivered, I got off track, used it to hold former household items while still moving, then after I slowly got rid of the extra stove/freezer/dishwasher/furniture I slowly used it as a jumbled repository of worthless items, a $3500 building wasted on "storage", of stuff no longer used.

I appreciate the help on this thread, I realize now that maybe the dx200 would likely have been all I needed and I wouldn't be pent up about a cooler but then I'd know I was permanently limited IF big time needs come up soon, more than likely the dx200 would have handled those alloy needs anyway, haha, air cooled torch, etc, I was all crazy worried about super pulse frequency adjustment and more ac frequency adjust for some weird idea I may restore damaged alloy items, I do have a vintage 36 hp VW engine block, I found out that the magnesium case is damaged and the heads are damaged, maybe it can be reworkedI also have a couple dual port vw heads with cracked or broken off cooling fins from offroad use.

Well, ya know, when I was younger, I workd about fifty hours a week, I was driving thirty miles to work, so I got it in my head to get me a big fancy brand new 4x4, with lift kit and big tires. I was stopping to buy gas all the time, the payments were killing me, I spent all my money on fancy truck tires and rims, chrome stuff all over, bigger bumper with cable winch, didn't need all those accessories and the real shame is that I never took it off road to even get muddy so what use was it really, gas prices went up, my hours got cut down, then I was laid off, ha, I had to sell the truck for a huge loss just to cover my debt, bad timber industry ya know. I should have bought the used ford ranger 4x4 then, and since then I try not to blow all I got so I worry about getting everything I need in case I can't afford later or keeping it down about all sorts of accessories, I mean, really, my idea of welding is buying everything I need and then some, things I might not ever need, and all it would do is make sure that if I die in an accident that my brother will be sifting through my estate and have a nervous breakdown I have so many interesting things, like mac tools I bought for engine rebuilding, never used them, haha.

[budbd]

Well, this thread turned out not so "old" after all since I wisely now have a 200DX coming again, this time for good, I kept on getting increases in estimate of my electrical install, on top of I was told it would need inspection, meaning in my county they like to tax everyone to the max whenever they can, I mean, it seems my taxes went up when I started growing strawberries out front in old half wine barrels. That is all they do in this county, getting the max taxes and raising their salaries and benefits, I don't even live in a really nice large or expensive home, there is no way I am raising my taxes for what I got here.

I mean, knowing that I have 245 volts even at the dryer, later on I can work out any drop in 50 amp breaker and extension cord setup if I actually need to, like if I get a lathe or such out there, I just want to keep my needs small time right now, and keep "the man" out of my personal affairs. Ya know, I worked as a power generator rated mechanic while I was in the military, which is why I actually prefer to have a dx 200 in case I have to weld something up at my brothers place or a friends place or elsewhere where I need a versatile machine, or some darned good 120, I mean, my brother still has a gas stove and no dryer, but I believe there is a 220 volt connections somewhere, probably right at the line of 30 amps, a friend does have stove and dryer outlets, I've mig welded with a 120 volt mig welder at both places in the past, and buzzbox welder at my friends place for something he had that needed fixed, off his stove.

Soooo,....haha, ya know I went out and bought 8 gauge water resistant three wire cord, 50 ft of it, cost me a bundle, like $160, and once I run it over to my outbuilding, I'll still have a lot of length, like 35 or more ft left to go out the door with my portable plasma arc cutter, for instance, and also bought a oven/dryer plug nema 14-50 dual conversion oven or dryer male plug, forgot to get a nema 6-50 plug for my plasma cutter I received to even test it, I already still own a nema 6-50 receptacle I have on a smaller extension cord. I was gonna use my stove outlet, but I am sure the dryer is good enough, it has 245 volts, and I am sure the dual 30/40 aforementioned breaker system means it is the 30 amp breaker, voltage measured according to my fluke 88 multimeter, later on I could use my fluke amp clamp, the best there was twenty years ago, to measure amperage.

My idea to use the dryer is that I can reach it with a step stool, and I use the dryer once a week. My stove, well, it gets used all the time, and have to get on hands and knees to reach in after the lower drawer is removed to reach the plug. I plan on drilling a hole in the floor and running the cord over to across my outbuilding and running it across to the four feet across the ground, through another hole then attaching the receptical like the 120 volt 12 gauge 25ft extension cord I have already running in there for lights, unless I want to run it out the back door slightly opened, not ideal.

THIS WHOLE "INRUSH" thing, oh sure, I have read what it could mean, at 30 amp breaker, but with 245 volts to the dryer, I am sure I it would be less "inrush", apart from I think that "max inrush" is like if I like was with the welder at maximum limit settings like if I weld the thickest materials.

[DaveO]

Sounds like it's all coming together for you! I'm looking forward to seeing your projects.