Super 200PI Help Needed

[FFMedic]

Greetings,

I borrowed an older yellow Super 200PI 4-in-1 from a friend who had never used it. After putting a plug on the end, assembling the air filter/reg, and firing her up, I have no current on the display. Power light is on. I tired some MMA, and cutting all per the manual, but no matter how much I dial up the current knob the display still reads "000". I was able to get a very small amount of current through the stick, but nothing close to what is needed to weld. I also was able to get a few short spurts from the cutter, till I got the red light. Shut everything down and tried again, but no luck.

Is she DOA? Any help appreciated! Thanks.

[zoama]

Is this an Everlast machine ?.. If no, please state the brand.

[FFMedic]

Yes, it is an Everlast Super 200PI

[DaveO]

Based on the control knobs, that's an AC / DC TIG machine, stick welder, and plasma cutter. Pretty cool find.

FFMedic, welcome to the forums!

We may need to back up a step to start troubleshooting. What kind of plug did you put on the machine, and what are you plugging into?

[FFMedic]

Thanks for your help.
I have a 4 prong 30A 250V Nema 14-30 (no neutral) plugged into a 30a outlet on a 6500w genset. The label on the back of the unit says 28A max.

[performance]

That looks like one of our early IGBT models from 08...before the official launch of the PowerTIG.PowerPro models...and the "super" series name was dropped.

If you are using a 4 pronged plug, then it should have a neutral...and likely there is the issue.

What wire colors do you have?

It's likely that there are a couple of things wrong here. One is that you are matching wire colors...which will create a 110V circuit instead of a 220V. White and black on our units are hot wires (though this unit could have used blue/brown and a green/yellow wire. The blue and brown/reddish wire would then be hot. Green/yellow, or green is always ground. There is a total of only three wires on any 220V welder.
You need to identify which wires are actually hot coming from your outlet. (Usually red and black).

The other issue, is that you probably aren't using a clean power generator....which even Lincoln won't tolerate a dirty or square sine wave. If your sine wave isn't a true sine wave output, the units won't work.

If you miswired it, or are running it on a generator that isn't clean power, you could have fried it. At best you caused an overcurrent and engaged the protection on the unit...which will continue to happen if you persist until the issue is corrected or until the unit is toasted internally.

There are two possibilities with the display on that older unit. 1) The unit won't display amperage until the unit is welding. 2) The foot pedal is plugged in.

[FFMedic]

Mark,

Thanks for the suggestions. While I am using a 4 pronged plug (as the manual shows), I am NOT using the neutral leg. The 3 wires are wired to the ground and two hot legs of the plug, so I can't see how I can't be getting 220V. The wire colors are grn/yel, blue, tan. I have the grn/yel to ground, and the blue and tan to each hot leg. The plug prong marked "W" is for a neutral wire, and is empty.

As to the display only showing current when welding, that would seem a pretty tricky task to have to watch your weld and at the same time try and glance at the display to make sure it is set right.

As far as the foot pedal, I thought that only needed to be plugged in for TIG? Again that was not mentioned in the manual as being required for MMA or cutting.
I hope this helps, and thanks for your time!
Matt

[DaveO]

Geez, hopefully not fried.

FFMedic, as a work-around for the generator you might plug into the 220v dryer outlet in the house (if you're at the house). Good luck with it!

{Edit} A thought just struck me- is the generator giving 220v ouput?