This is encouraging. I have been looking at many of the cheaper tube notchers including the the HF one. The Eastwood notcher is another one I've checked out, which others have noted the same issue with the offset. Is it that hard to get them centered up during production? Shim the machines that produce these notchers if you have to people!
I have a different way of hanging my torch, a hanger that I made from 1/4" stainless stock and stainless sheet metal (scraps). The best part about having any type of hanger for your torch is that you can hang the torch up if you're done welding for the day and you don't have to wait for it to cool down. It can take an especially long time for the torches to cool if you have gotten them hot and they aren't water-cooled, and coiling a hot torch up probably isn't a good idea. If nothing else, you could create a meltdown.
It's funny you posted that magnetic torch and accessories holder. I was just remembering the fancy stainless sheet version that a Journeyman at my previous job made from scratch, using the Rotex punch to make all the needed holes in the base. I thought he was a genius, but now I see that he simply copied a store bought design. His version looked way cooler though.
As for the chop saw notching, my neighbor used that process to scratch build a motorcycle frame, and the results were very impressive (he's a member of that forum and probably got the idea from it)! I still like the fuller mouth opening of the tube cut using a hole saw though. Ideally (if I had room for it), I'd build my belt sander for that sort of work. I actually have most of the parts to complete the tool, but no space to store it!
Andy
New Everlast PowerTig 250EX that is begging for me to come up with a few welding projects so it can stretch it's legs. Did someone say aluminum???
MISC. TOOLS:
Atlas 618 lathe
Milwaukee Porta Band with custom made stand
Dewalt 4-1/2" angle grinder
Dewalt 14" chop saw
Strong Hand Nomad portable table
Juki sewing machine I've had for years (yes I know sewing is for girls)
Penncrest Buzzbox - Infinite amp control! Man the 70's were good.
Everlast Powerplasma 60 - Reliable unit, cuts well.
Everlast i-MIG 250P w/spoolgun - Really smooth, plenty of cajones.
Everlast 250EXT - Sometimes it just takes a kick in the balls...
Everlast 255EXT - Just started playing
Probably more suited to stationary machines. I'm more used to TIG machines that need a forklift to move. I got it at LWS. First one maybe 30 years ago, but left it when I quit. Found the second maybe 10-15 years ago but looks like they are still being made.
http://www.rmiorder.com/product/SE/TIG-1/Tig-Caddie
Did knock it off welder last year and parts flew for sure. Probably no so good for a cart mounted machine. And not something to take over to the bench, so that is why I will make some like Kempy to stick where ever. Maybe even with an old on-off mag base for a dial indicator.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
I probably made it sound worse than it is. Out of the box, mine would cut a notch that was probably 1/4" longer on one side than the other. There are three mounting bolts on the clamp and I used various washer thicknesses to get the spindle centered on the tube. It wasn't. A major ordeal. Using a quality bit is key as SeanMurphy265 mentioned.
School board sell off old tools and getting new ones it is a 6X48 Delta belt sander for $200.00, Rockwell 14" Table saw $210.00 and a Delta 12" Radial Arm saw $100.00.
I used a Sears 4X36 for years and yes I usually do tubes up to .125 in. wall and max. dia. of 2.50 in. if it is heaver I saw it close and then sand it.
Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
I notice you are not using the miter guide. Do you do all these by eye? I move between things so much lately, I doubt I would ever get enough time to get a good eye for this anymore, and would resort to using the miter guide. I also had to hunt down an older cast iron 6x48 belt sander, to get what I wanted.
Our schools sold off most of their tools some years ago and CANCELLED all the programs.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
Last edited by Kempy; 09-15-2013 at 01:29 PM. Reason: change
Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
Nice work my friend.
I use a tubing notcher but of the home-made variety on a drill press. Sometimes I still need a die grinder, belt sander, sanding wheel, just to get close to some of your pic's. Sometimes the metal gods smile upon you and sometimes not so much.....
Thanks,
t3t4
Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)