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Thread: Received New PowerTig 185 Today

  1. Default

    With a fixed .3 pre-flow, is that enough for a 25 foot torch?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by srp View Post
    With a fixed .3 pre-flow, is that enough for a 25 foot torch?
    Yes, once you initially purge the line, the heavy argon basically stays in the hose, so a small preflow is all it takes regardless of the line length.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    The smaw doesn't output in AC, DC only regardless of where the switch is set. Which power arc do you have?
    Maybe my power setting was too high and when I went to tune it down I also noticed that it was in AC mode. Based on your comment this would have to be the case.

    My PowerArc is the 160. This is a really neat little unit, but it does not start well with 6010. Unless the power is set way up, it wants to stick like a magnet. 7018 and 6013 run like a charm, but not the old 6010. When I was considering the PA300 my research noted this was inherent with the PA series, but was resolved by the introduction of a 6010 port, on some models, dedicated to its use. I haven't looked at the latest and greatest PA series, so I'm not sure if this is still an issue. BUT and HOWEVER, this 185 is a double WOW with the 6010, and I am ecstatic about that!

  4. #24

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    nils,
    This info isn't correct. It wasn't "inherent". The PA 200 and 300 came before the current 160 and 140 st. These have always had the separate port and 6010 capability. Except we introduced a non separate port 200 with excellent capability 6010 capability and people thought because it was missing the separate port, it wouldn't weld 6010, but it did, and did so nicely. The reason something does, or doesn't handle a 6010 is because of the output voltage of the unit with 6010. This can work in a single port machine or a separate port machine. We've reworked several machines, and some are burning 6010 better now than before because of the overall streamlining of the designs, but still we are only giving the PA 200 and 300 the official stamp. The 140, and 160 are made for a different market than the 200 and 300. We had an older 160 with 6010 capability that was made for the heavier market, but because it didn't provide the amperage most people needed, we discontinued it in favor of the stick/tig unit.

  5. Default

    Thanks Mark for the history on the PA. It is the only inverter type I know of with the separate 6010 port, and my 160 absolutely does not work well with that rod.

    Went for some more testing today on aluminum. I found using the TIG torch and pedal in stick mode resulted in a crazy episode of run-away-arc, white smoke, and WTF.

    Moving on, I tried several variations of balance, but am still getting a glazed/measles look on the finished bead regardless of the setting. Tomorrow I'll try a different bottle of argon, though the one I'm using worked perfectly with mild steel.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by nils View Post
    Thanks Mark for the history on the PA. It is the only inverter type I know of with the separate 6010 port, and my 160 absolutely does not work well with that rod.

    Went for some more testing today on aluminum. I found using the TIG torch and pedal in stick mode resulted in a crazy episode of run-away-arc, white smoke, and WTF.

    Moving on, I tried several variations of balance, but am still getting a glazed/measles look on the finished bead regardless of the setting. Tomorrow I'll try a different bottle of argon, though the one I'm using worked perfectly with mild steel.
    Never heard that description before...don't know what measles would look like on metal. Got a picture?

  7. #27

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    What's your polarity? Are you trying to run the 6010 with the electrode holder in the negative or positive?
    And on TIG what's the polarity? You should be somewhere around 9 oclock on balance, and 2 oclock on frequency.

  8. #28

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    Are you sure what you are trying to weld is aluminum?

    Post up a picture of the weld along with an overview of your welder settings.
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  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    What's your polarity? Are you trying to run the 6010 with the electrode holder in the negative or positive?
    And on TIG what's the polarity? You should be somewhere around 9 oclock on balance, and 2 oclock on frequency.
    For stick welding it's EP. For TIG it's EN. Balance seems best at 9 oclock and the frequency is between 1 and 3 depending on if I want to run at 60hz or 100-160????

    I don't think that measles is a standard welding term. But it looks like there's little bumps on the surface and it has a dull glazed look.

    The material is definitely 6061.

    I've tried posting a picture but can only get as far as browsing for the file, then there's no more buttons to select.

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by nils View Post
    I've tried posting a picture but can only get as far as browsing for the file, then there's no more buttons to select.
    Can you double (left) click and select it?
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
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    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  11. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nils View Post
    For stick welding it's EP. For TIG it's EN. Balance seems best at 9 oclock and the frequency is between 1 and 3 depending on if I want to run at 60hz or 100-160????

    I don't think that measles is a standard welding term. But it looks like there's little bumps on the surface and it has a dull glazed look.

    The material is definitely 6061.

    I've tried posting a picture but can only get as far as browsing for the file, then there's no more buttons to select.
    4043 will do that on 6061 when there is not enough cleaning action.

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