Aluminum SCH 40 pipe.

[nitris223]

Now I am just trying to decide between the flex loc 130 or 150 and in 12.5 feet or 25 feet. I think 25 might be a bit much but then again I can leave some hanging on the welder. I just don't really see needing anything over 12 feet because I can wheel the welder anywhere in my shop . I always find with any type of welder it always seems to be the ground lead that is to short. Most of the time the gun will reach but the ground comes up short. Something small I will put in my vise and I always had to pull my old welder closer to get the ground connected and then loop the mig gun because it was to long.

[nils]

With any kind of tubing, either round or square, steel or aluminum, make sure the inside is thoroughly cleaned where you intend to weld it.

[nitris223]

Sch 40 aluminum pipe .133 wall. 6061 T6. Never heard of cleaning the inside of the pipe, but I guess it can come out that way also.

[nils]

Sch 40 aluminum pipe .133 wall. 6061 T6. Never heard of cleaning the inside of the pipe, but I guess it can come out that way also.

On several occasions I have encountered tubing with grease or oil or cutting lubricants inside the tube. When there, they tend to bleed into the outside surface when welding and contaminate the puddle. It is especially prevalent with mild steel types where a need for a corrosion resistant film is required.

[azsprint6]

9 and 20 interchange consumables along with what CK calls series 2

17, 18, and 26 interchange along with what CK calls series 3.

So your 9 parts will fit, for sure. Some stubby 17/26 cups are actually 9/20 series parts, but others are special. The stubby collet bodies and collets are special and will not interchange. Gas lens is a whole different setup, too.

Is the CK superflex power cable a 3/8-24 thread that will work with the Everlast supplied 9 and 17 torch bodies??

[zoama]

Is the CK superflex power cable a 3/8-24 thread that will work with the Everlast supplied 9 and 17 torch bodies??

The CK 150amp cable is 3/8-24 on both ends... I don't know about the Everlast supplied 9 and 17 torch bodies.

[azsprint6]

The CK 150amp cable is 3/8-24 on both ends... I don't know about the Everlast supplied 9 and 17 torch bodies.

Thanks for the reply Zoama, I thought I read somewhere that CK used a metric thread. Seems like Everlast and all other common threads are 3/8-24. I want a superflex cable but wanted to make sure my existing bodies will work. Thanks again.

[zoama]

Thanks for the reply Zoama, I thought I read somewhere that CK used a metric thread. Seems like Everlast and all other common threads are 3/8-24. I want a superflex cable but wanted to make sure my existing bodies will work. Thanks again.

I got the info from a reseller's page so check with CK first to be sure. (800)426-0877

[Rambozo]

Thanks for the reply Zoama, I thought I read somewhere that CK used a metric thread. Seems like Everlast and all other common threads are 3/8-24. I want a superflex cable but wanted to make sure my existing bodies will work. Thanks again.

Not really. The ends on most cables are different depending on the amperage capacity. Low power stuff starts at inert gas A, then B, then C (3/8, 5/8, 7/8). Right hand for gas cooled, left hand for water cooled. At the torch end it's always small, but they usually do something to keep from using the wrong cables. So don't plan on using the cable that goes with a 9 on a 26 torch. I only have a real old CK, but it is different from Weldcraft, which is different from Lincoln, which is different from... You get the point. The cable and torch go together in current capacity so plan on keeping them together. While in theory you could use the cable from a 26 on a 9, it would be a lot heavier and kinda defeats the point. With water cooling it gets even worse with different fittings even across the same brand. (Weldcraft ) If you contact CK, they will be able to tell you what will interchange between their torches. You can also look up replacement cables and match part numbers to see what torches share what cables.

[azsprint6]

Thanks Rambozo, I am mainly concerned with 9 and 17's. I have a 26, the supplied one that obviously wont work and a 17 that I purchased with the welder. I have 2) 17's and 2) 9's-flex and rigid for both. What I'm doing now is swapping them back and forth on the same cable. I want to get a superflex cable and just keep a 9 on it with no thumb switch, I thought maybe someone here may have tried that with the CK cable. I can call them tomorrow to verify. Thanks again.

[nitris223]

Tried the sch 40 again tonight. Cleaned it up on the lathe then with acetone. Made the pipe 4" long this time. Tried the freq at 60 -120 and the Balance at 30 % or lowest. Worked better but not getting the dime look at all. I can seem to melt the rod and flow it around but no stacking. I am waiting for some 1/16th rod to see if it will work any better. I think I need to focus the arc right in the middle to get a smaller bead. What`s the trick to narrow welds. Mine seem to be very wide once I can get going. Even if I back off the amps it is a fine line between melting or making a mess. It will melt the tig rod but not the pipe. I think I was around 85 to 90 amps max . It is definitely a improvement from the last time. I might take a hammer to the joint and see how it holds up.

[nitris223]

Well hopefully in a couple of weeks I will have my new flex-loc torch in hand and give it a try. Just dropped $400 today on torch, consumables for the Tig, Mig and Plasma cutter. I talked to Everlast Canada and it looks like they will be carrying the CK line with super flex hose but not sure when it will be in stock. Jean figured sometime in Jan. To late for me but at least they will have more options.

[fdcmiami]

Tried the sch 40 again tonight. Cleaned it up on the lathe then with acetone. Made the pipe 4" long this time. Tried the freq at 60 -120 and the Balance at 30 % or lowest. Worked better but not getting the dime look at all. I can seem to melt the rod and flow it around but no stacking. I am waiting for some 1/16th rod to see if it will work any better. I think I need to focus the arc right in the middle to get a smaller bead. What`s the trick to narrow welds. Mine seem to be very wide once I can get going. Even if I back off the amps it is a fine line between melting or making a mess. It will melt the tig rod but not the pipe. I think I was around 85 to 90 amps max . It is definitely a improvement from the last time. I might take a hammer to the joint and see how it holds up.

saw post and misread the four inch long for four inch sch forty. if it was 4 in sch. 40 i would go to 3/32 or 1/8 th tungsten and 1/8 th filler.