PowerTig 255EXT got CODE 805

[Kempy]

Got a 805 code when I pushed down the foot pedal to see what I had set the amps to I and got a 805 code, let off the pedal and the code went away. Checked the book and it said that Code 805 is (TORCH SWITCH IS STUCK CLOSED/ Turn off welder immediately and check switch) the switch is fine. It only dose it when you do not strike an arc within a few seconds like just too far away for the arc to start. If you let off the pedal the code disappears but if the code come on when you are going to start to weld and don’t for some reason, know the code comes on before it start an arc it will not start even if you touch the work with the tungsten it is dead, you must let off the pedal and restart again.

[JimMinKent]

Kempy, I ran into this several times yesterday and then again today. I am building a device to assist a convalescing senior from 1" satin silver anodized aluminum tubing. This stuff is basically non-conductive. I've had trouble getting a ground connection and found that if I grind clean the inside of a tube end and clamp a braided automotive ground bonding strap between it and my bench, it works. And of course the coating has to be ground off of each weld area. But in learning this, I did get the 805 error, and looked it up like you did. I still get it, occasionally and it acts just like there is no ground connection, and the HF just washes over the part. Then sometimes after this, it seems to not fire the HF so no start on that try. So I do want fully identify the conditions when this happens, it seems to be associated with this weird material only.

I made a grave mistake and forgot to turn on my cooler, and thought I may have damaged my old torch, and had caused this error code from that. I am glad you pointed this out, perhaps others can weigh-in with their experience.

BTW, Very nice array of green machines you have accumulated.

[Kempy]

Kempy,
I made a grave mistake and forgot to turn on my cooler, and thought I may have damaged my old torch, and had caused this error code from that. I am glad you pointed this out, perhaps others can weigh-in with their experience.
BTW, Very nice array of green machines you have accumulated.

Thanks on the green lineup. On page 14 of the online manual it shows the welders 220/240V plug is your not connected to the water cooler so when you turn the welder on it turns the cooler on. The Canadian one has it.

[JimMinKent]

Thanks on the green lineup. On page 14 of the online manual it shows the welders 220/240V plug is your not connected to the water cooler so when you turn the welder on it turns the cooler on. The Canadian one has it.

I may have to set up an outlet and wire my pump for 220. My machine is the early release with no rear outlet and the incorrect accessory package, (which should be on their way to us soon). It is such a capable machine, though, these teething pains are just that.

[Rambozo]

Got a 805 code when I pushed down the foot pedal to see what I had set the amps to I and got a 805 code, let off the pedal and the code went away. Checked the book and it said that Code 805 is (TORCH SWITCH IS STUCK CLOSED/ Turn off welder immediately and check switch) the switch is fine. It only dose it when you do not strike an arc within a few seconds like just too far away for the arc to start. If you let off the pedal the code disappears but if the code come on when you are going to start to weld and don’t for some reason, know the code comes on before it start an arc it will not start even if you touch the work with the tungsten it is dead, you must let off the pedal and restart again.

So it sounds like this is a code that means your tungsten is too far away from the work.
I don't quite understand your last sentence, though. Is this more for information or is there a problem?
From what you say, if you depress the pedal before you have the tungsten close, this code will display and the machine will not start until you release the pedal and try again. But if you first place the tungsten close to the work and then hit the pedal, it starts right up. Sounds like that is by design and I don't see a problem with that, but it is nice to know. I am curious as to what is the behavior when you are in lift arc mode. Do you need to touch the tungsten before you hit the switch, or can you hit the switch then tap the work?

[everlastsupport]

I agree with Ram. I will try it later with mine to see if the original 10 have that same software/code. I was running no start amps a couple days ago and did not have the problem, but I was using the torch/trigger and was digging in close asap when I did not get the HF to jump when I thought it should.

Mark mentioned turning up the start amps, I have not tried it but it makes sense. Maybe try that. Or just get closer before hitting the pedal. Or maybe the pedal switch might need to be moved a bit.

Sounds like a software change if it start to be a real problem. Nice thing about going digital.

[performance]

In theory, this is to protect unit from having someone doing something stupid and sit and fire the torch full of high frequency with no place to go or firing when the ground is off...which it will find a place to go just like Ray Steven's the squirrel that went to church (if you catch my drift.) Guys if it continues or gets worse in normal situations, let me know. No suspected issue or anything, but it sounds like it could be a low/bad ground situation...possibly a loose tungsten??

[Kempy]

In theory, this is to protect unit from having someone doing something stupid and sit and fire the torch full of high frequency with no place to go or firing when the ground is off...which it will find a place to go just like Ray Steven's the squirrel that went to church (if you catch my drift.) Guys if it continues or gets worse in normal situations, let me know. No suspected issue or anything, but it sounds like it could be a low/bad ground situation...possibly a loose tungsten??

All welder that do a lot of welding around the shop will make mistakes, like not putting the ground on or it falls off but I would not call them STUPID if you make a spelling mistake you don’t call them STUPID.

[performance]

I am specifically referring to those calls that people tell me the torch won't work because when they press the trigger and hold it up in the air a flame doesn't shoot out and to those people that just hold the torch trigger down to see what will happen. But yes we all do something stupid from time to time. Me for sure. If people get offended by the use of the word stupid, no apologies here, because I'm using it in the colloquial sense of the word. See my location (S. GA). Maybe that's become a P.C. term that overly sensitive people shouldn't say?

[Rivets]

All welder that do a lot of welding around the shop will make mistakes, like not putting the ground on or it falls off but I would not call them STUPID if you make a spelling mistake you don’t call them STUPID.

Hey Kempy,

If you read Mark's post, you will see that he never called anyone "stupid".

He said .... "this is to protect unit from having someone doing something stupid"....

Lots of smart people make mistakes.
Even Einstein acknowledged as much. See his cosmological constant, which he called his "biggest blunder".

Cheers,
rivets

[Kempy]

So it sounds like this is a code that means your tungsten is too far away from the work.
I don't quite understand your last sentence, though. Is this more for information or is there a problem?
From what you say, if you depress the pedal before you have the tungsten close, this code will display and the machine will not start until you release the pedal and try again. But if you first place the tungsten close to the work and then hit the pedal, it starts right up. Sounds like that is by design and I don't see a problem with that, but it is nice to know. I am curious as to what is the behavior when you are in lift arc mode. Do you need to touch the tungsten before you hit the switch, or can you hit the switch then tap the work?

Yes to your question it is not a problem, it is what I found so far just giving more information. It might only be a glitch in the programing of the machine. I don't remember it happing when I was working on Steel just Aluminum I will check it later today. Overall I the LOVE machine.

[Kempy]

Well back to the code 805 testing.
I decided to get my Everlast Amptrol torch out and try it since the machine has a special feature for it T4 and Pedal combined, this did not put out a code 805 if I did not strike and arc. I leave the ground off and it would show the amp up and down but not put out a code.

[performance]

Keep in mind the unit is supposed to do this. It protects the machine...the protection is doing its job. It's not a fault if it acts according to what you described Kempy (several seconds). Again, doing stuff like this is NOT how the unit is intended to be used and is improper operation and we don't guarantee it to operate if its used incorrectly in a way that could potentially damage the machine. Stepping on the pedal to check your amps is not intended as a normal way of operation, and is a poor/bad habit. All the HF energy has to have someplace to go to. It's going to jump off the board onto something else if it doesn't have a path to travel down. That's why that's built in. If you need to check the amperage, just jog or barely touch the control knob. Set amps will display. But if you need to keep on stepping on the pedal for an extended time to check your amps, you need to max out your preflow, which will delay the HF from coming on.

[Kempy]

Well my conclusion so far with the 805 code by welding up a triple tank holder all Aluminum for a trailer, using the Everlast Amptrol Tig gun set to the Special setting of T4 plus Pedal, I never got the code 805 from low amps to high even when I hit the button before an arc started (OOPS).
It seems that the problem is in the foot pedal setting only so far in my testing and welding jobs and I did try all of my pedals one prototype and the two 250EX and the one that came with the 255EXT all EVERLAST Pedals.
T2 or T4 with pedal I never got the code 805 in AC or DC welding.

[Kempy]

Rambozo
It has one little quark.
The PowerTig 255EXT has the Start Amps set to 5-250 Amps AC or DC but when it goes up to Welding Amps it is on DC 3-250 Amps and the End Amps are 3-250 Amps DC.
So as I see it, when in DC mode: Starts Amps will start at 5 Amps lowest, Up Slops to 3 lowest Welding Amps then Down Slops to 3 lowest End Amps.
But AC is Starts Amps at 5-250 Amps Up Slops to 5-250 Welding Amps then Down Slops to 5-250 End Amps.

[Rambozo]

I have seen something like that before on a different machines. Where it needs a little more start to get a reliable arc and build some heat in the tungsten, but then it can go down and weld at an even lower setting, especially on DC. There is also the actual arc initiation start pulse setting that is probably a little higher. I'm not sure I remember any way to adjust that on this model, though. I think there was a hidden menu for the 210EXT for that. I would be curious to know what that is, if it's a published spec or if someone will measure it. On other machines, I recall the start pulse being around 10-20 amps to get a reliable start.

It does make it sound odd to "upslope" from 5 to 3, but it makes perfect sense.

[Kempy]

I have seen something like that before on a different machines. Where it needs a little more start to get a reliable arc and build some heat in the tungsten, but then it can go down and weld at an even lower setting, especially on DC. There is also the actual arc initiation start pulse setting that is probably a little higher. I'm not sure I remember any way to adjust that on this model, though. I think there was a hidden menu for the 210EXT for that. I would be curious to know what that is, if it's a published spec or if someone will measure it. On other machines, I recall the start pulse being around 10-20 amps to get a reliable start.

It does make it sound odd to "upslope" from 5 to 3, but it makes perfect sense.

They should call it the Up/Down Slope.