I'll add the following and let you continue to cogitate...
As I said above, I am working with a difficult material, thin-walled home-store satin anodized aluminum tubing. Cannot use bumping method due to the near blow-through at about the point the anodizing breaks up. I need to grind every weld area and take special care on the work clamp contact point to achieve the best esthetic results.
Until this project, I have never seen Code 805. I do use the pedal in 2T, and also of course in Pedal mode. What I get is the Pedal mode gives me current control, and the 2T gives me instant panel amps. Great feature, use it often. The way the pedal is built, there is a slight disconnect between the switch and the pot. The first 3/8" of travel touch the switch, and after that the gear sector moves the pot shaft. This is better than the older style when you needed to fine tune the switch point, as the belt was already changing the pot value. Not the case with the new pedal, it works very nicely as a foot operated torch switch.
I have set the AC start amps to 5 (the default lowest value) and then to 25, and get about the same results, which are: In Pedal mode, HF buzzes, enough to trigger my AD helmet (Balder lens), but no arc initiation. Let off pedal, post flow timer runs out, then next time nothing, no click, no pre-flow, no HF, etc. it seems that when it does this it will come back to normal after maybe 15-20 seconds. Then all is fine until it decides to do it again. It acts like an un-grounded work piece.
If it was my Syncrowave 250 I would bump up the HF intensity, but I'd rather that it work at this level than jolting me through the filler rod running right past my neck and ear.
So here are some more data points, keep them coming in so we can make a perfect machine out of a fantastic machine.
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