FInally got to do some real work with my PT185

[sportbike]

Well, I finally got to use my PT185 over the Thanksgiving weekend. I traveled to my in-laws and parents area and knew I'd be bored on Friday while everyone went shopping so I brought my PT185 and my next motorcycle frame along for the ride.

Essentially I did all of the modifications as shown here in an older post:
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...ighlight=frame

I did it all on 110V with the little AC tig that could.

I must say I am very impressed with this unit, especially on 110V.

I also noticed that the panel knob does in fact control max output amps with using a pedal.

Great little welder, works great on low voltage as well. I purchased this to use in my race trailer at the track and fortunately I have not had to use it for that purpose yet. I am sure it will be a nice tool for teh 2014 race season.

John

[Rambozo]

Aluminum frame work on 110V, that is impressive. What is the max amps that it will put out on 110V? Nice to see the panel setting for max amps instead of the pot on the pedal. That should remove some peoples nitpicking on that machine.

[DaveO]

Did the in-laws have argon, or did you have to byo?

Glad (but not surprised) to hear it's also capable at 110v.

[sportbike]

Aluminum frame work on 110V, that is impressive. What is the max amps that it will put out on 110V? Nice to see the panel setting for max amps instead of the pot on the pedal. That should remove some peoples nitpicking on that machine.

That machine used to not have max control available when using a foot pedal. Used to just be max of the machine was max of the pedal. That in itself really isn't much of an issue though.

Mine will go to 120A in AC per the readout on the machine when using 110v (or 120V or whatever it was).

That is pretty much where I was for all of teh welding I did with it. Never got warm at all and never tried to pop the 20A breaker.

[everlastsupport]

Nice. I have one on order, so nice to know. I thought the max was 95 amps, but that might be on 15 amps. Will have to see.

Dave should have posted BYOB

[performance]

stick amps should be around 95 amps.

[sportbike]

Nice. I have one on order, so nice to know. I thought the max was 95 amps, but that might be on 15 amps. Will have to see.

Dave should have posted BYOB

It seems to take a second to "sense" the voltage and then it seems to adjust accordingly. I assume it is a digital adjustment, either 185A for 220-240V or ~120A for 110-120V

[sportbike]

Only thing i wasn't impressed with is the gas pressure burst that is still there when starting an arc. I assume it is because of a "not stiff enough" supply hose that turns into a balloon when the solenoid shuts off, causing full pressure at the back side of the valve.

[Kempy]

Only thing i wasn't impressed with is the gas pressure burst that is still there when starting an arc. I assume it is because of a "not stiff enough" supply hose that turns into a balloon when the solenoid shuts off, causing full pressure at the back side of the valve.

It is the regulators preset pressure for the flow rate but when you shut it off the set pressure will reach it max pressure on the line to the welders shut off valve and yes it will balloon a little but even an none expanding tube it will do the same thing just a little less. If you do not have the pressure up you will not get the flow rate to the torch head. The pressure is set high because they take in consideration that you might have a 25 foot air or water cooled torch. Some regulators have both pressure and flow rate adjustability.

[sportbike]

It is the regulators preset pressure for the flow rate but when you shut it off the set pressure will reach it max pressure on the line to the welders shut off valve and yes it will balloon a little but even an none expanding tube it will do the same thing just a little less. If you do not have the pressure up you will not get the flow rate to the torch head. The pressure is set high because they take in consideration that you might have a 25 foot air or water cooled torch. Some regulators have both pressure and flow rate adjustability.

That is correct. I am not sure how other manufacturers do it, but they don;t blow the big burst of argon out every start. I'll have to take a look at work and maybe borrow a higher end regulator to see if it makes a difference.

[everlastsupport]

That is correct. I am not sure how other manufacturers do it, but they don;t blow the big burst of argon out every start. I'll have to take a look at work and maybe borrow a higher end regulator to see if it makes a difference.

Regulator and hose.

[youngnstudly]

I've found the exact same thing with the 160STH I have. The problem no longer gives me starting issues after I took the advice of others on this forum and began "tapping" the pedal and using the post flow as pre flow, but I agree that this has never been an issue with any other (name brand) regulator I've used with other tig welders. Of course for the reasonable cost of the Everlast units, most can afford to upgrade to a better regulator down the road.

I was surprised to hear that your 185 allows for amp control through the panel knob when using the foot pedal! Very cool! I had to make a stop for my pedal so that I could quickly and easily tack sheet metal without filler, but it sounds like the new machines will let you make a simple adjustment of the knob instead. As much as I've thought about the PT185, I think I'm more set on getting the 200DX for the extra 15 amps and pulse settings.

[Rambozo]

This is for MIG, but the principles and calculations are the same.



Lowering the regulator pressure can help, but you don't want to go too low. There are a lot of things you can do to improve things. Using small diameter feed hose with a metering orifice can really make a big difference. It is a lot more noticeable with short 12' torches than with 25'. I've had a pretty big starting blast with other brands, (Miller, Hobart), too, with the stock setups.

[sportbike]

I've found the exact same thing with the 160STH I have. The problem no longer gives me starting issues after I took the advice of others on this forum and began "tapping" the pedal and using the post flow as pre flow, but I agree that this has never been an issue with any other (name brand) regulator I've used with other tig welders. Of course for the reasonable cost of the Everlast units, most can afford to upgrade to a better regulator down the road.

I was surprised to hear that your 185 allows for amp control through the panel knob when using the foot pedal! Very cool! I had to make a stop for my pedal so that I could quickly and easily tack sheet metal without filler, but it sounds like the new machines will let you make a simple adjustment of the knob instead. As much as I've thought about the PT185, I think I'm more set on getting the 200DX for the extra 15 amps and pulse settings.

I have a 200DX as well (2011 version with pedal mounted max amp adjustment). I like it. I bought the 185 for portability, specifically for use at the race track. It is about 60% of the size of the 200 dx and is pretty easy to transport. I have a dual voltage version (obviously) , but the 200DX is also available in dual voltage now (I believe called the 200DV). If the performance is similar to the 185, I would recommend getting the DV option.