interchangability of accessories 250ex

[kubotaie]

looking at getting the 250ex here in the next few weeks and wanted to see if i could get some rather important info before i decide for sure...

1...can an aftermarket torch (weldcraft, etc) be used instead of the supplied torch

2...have the issues with the pedals been resolved or are they still plaguing people

3...can an aftermarket pedal be used instead (found a really nice flat, wide pedal with traction tape on it that i might consider)

4...is the 250ex a lift start/scratch or is it HF start...

i've looked for months now for a good tig and i keep coming back to Everlast but if these options/issues aren't or cant be answered, i might justs tick with my original plan and keep saving for a dynasty 200dx...lot more money but it's laid out there for you in black and white

[everlastsupport]

looking at getting the 250ex here in the next few weeks and wanted to see if i could get some rather important info before i decide for sure...

1...can an aftermarket torch (weldcraft, etc) be used instead of the supplied torch

2...have the issues with the pedals been resolved or are they still plaguing people

3...can an aftermarket pedal be used instead (found a really nice flat, wide pedal with traction tape on it that i might consider)

4...is the 250ex a lift start/scratch or is it HF start...

i've looked for months now for a good tig and i keep coming back to Everlast but if these options/issues aren't or cant be answered, i might justs tick with my original plan and keep saving for a dynasty 200dx...lot more money but it's laid out there for you in black and white

First off, we get a lot of call from people telling my how much they like our 250EX over the Miller Dynasty 200DX. Also I have had people tell me they waited a month plus to get theirs back from repair at their workplaces. That said.


1) Yes, some people have replaced the torch. Many opt for a smaller flex heads. We have plans for a new torch in the near future. Our current torch works quite well.

2) I would not call 5 or 10 out of 100's a plague. Only the problems pedals show up on the forum, actually more like mods people are making to them. There is a screw that has come loose in shipping on occasion, that simple. Not sure I would write off a welder over an accessory that might need an adjustment with a screw driver.

3) Like the torch, anything can be adapted. You might need a trip to a fastener company or take our torch to the local welding supply. The pinout and values for the pedal are located in Tech Bulletins here on the forum.

4) It has HF AND Lift start. You can click the link below, then click the close-up of the front panel (second picture on the bottom). It is the far right switch. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/Po...EX-351-pd.html

[performance]

I'd add a few things:

1) I too have talked with several people having problems with their Dynasty's and have confirmed issues with Miller dealers and reps. The wait can be a while for repair, as Mike said. The problem with them is that all functions go through a single processor board and that presents a problem for them from time to time. That part alone is the price of an entire EX.

2) We have spelled everything out in black and white (or green rather) on this forum and have listed the features fully on the website. The information is there and here. Anyone familiar with welding knows that it is usually a simple matter to adapt any torch to any brand. The 250EX has been made so that compatibility is not an issue. DINSE50 connectors are standard. The fitting for the gas is a 1/8" quick connect. Most torches have a threaded coupling. Ours do not, but that is a simple matter of swapping the ends. Water cooler connections are barbed fittings and are "universal".

3) The foot pedal issue was a particular issue with a limited run of pedals. The screws were not tight. The pedal functions well when it is adjusted correctly. Its not the nicest or prettiest pedal. But who buys a pedal based off looks? The traction on the pedal is raised perforated metal bumps. Unless you weld barefooted,(sorry inside joke), it won't be a problem for traction.

4) The features of Lift start (not scratch!) and HF are both included on the machine. Both work well. Here you can see everything spelled out clearly, all features, functions and parameters of the unit, including the lift start issue:

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/Po...EX-381-pd.html

[everlastsupport]

I'd add a few things:
The traction on the pedal is raised perforated metal bumps. Unless you weld barefooted,(sorry inside joke), it won't be a problem for traction.

Mark,

To the inside joke, you know I don't use a foot pedal. On that note, sent you a picture of a Jeep I was working on.

[kubotaie]

so the issue with the pedal was a remote few cases back in the day...seems reasonable...have no idea how to go about adapting another pedal as the idea of breaking open a $200 pedal to screw it up isnt my cup of tea...i can read diagrams and such but thats about as far as that goes...

the torch (dense 50mm) thing seems simple enough and i figure i could buy the weldcraft unit and wait for the 250ex to arrive to see exactly what fittings or adapters i would need...

watercooler is another thing...how efficient is the EL cooler versus the coolmate 1 or 3...i like that it plugs into the unit instead of having to supply another outlet at the wall...

thanks for helping me with the decision on which to buy...we use strictly BLUE at work and thats totalling probably 200 machines (Invisions, Deltawelds, Deltafabs, Millermatics)...thats why i prefer them but i am open to all brands, especially with the economy and now finding out that Miller (ITW i think) has manufacturing facilities in China to build the units...

[performance]

Its more efficient only drawing 1.1 amps. This beats both Miller US version coolmate coolers. It has a tank capacity of just over 2 gallons with pressure of 57 psi. However, it is 220 V so that helps on your power draw. The plug on the back of the cooler is 220. Pump is stainless steel. Balance of cooler is copper and stainless. Italian construction inside. Its rated for 300 amps plus 10 percent.

As far as the pedal goes, we did have several complaints, but almost all were fixed within minutes. The mods were things that customers did to give them peace of mind and improve durability for their situations. Typically, you do not need to "break open" a pedal, but rather all the work is done at the connection end whether its adapting a resistor or whatever, most can be done at the connection end. Mike can walk you through just about any kind of basic repair. The number one tool required is a basic ohm meter.

[Doug Wright]

I have had a Power Tig 250 ex for 6 weeks now and I love it. I have not had any serious problems. These guys have been great at responding to request. You will love the machine. DW