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  1. Default tig noob in need of some help

    hey guy i was tig welding some sheet metal today using 3/32 2 % lanthenated, 55 amps,dc,er 70s-2. welds were turning out pretty good but my tungsten would stay sharp for long? pretty much i could lay 2 beads and then i would have to re sharpen it. it also kinda of turning a bit black but not so much. other info i can say i was using a gas lens and cup # 7 10 cfh which i was told was plenty if using a gas lense. i was simply just running beads. any one have any suggestions on why the tungsten wouldnt stay sharp and deteriating a bit.?????????????????

  2. Default

    stick out was around 1/4 inch if that helps too.

  3. #3

    Default

    What joint configuration? I assume lap since you're doing sheet. 10 cfh is more or less consistent with Miller's weld calculator. Did you have any black specks in your weld bead? Any rusty-colored "halo" around the bead?

    Are you 100% sure you've got your torch set up electrode-negative? Other than that, I would guess contamination of some kind. Maybe a leak in your gas hose or your torch letting just a little bit of air in.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Northern Virginia
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    Default

    The description sounds similar to other posts where problems were caused by bad or insufficient gas. Did you change bottles recently? Using pure argon, not MIG shielding gas? (Mistakes can happen at the LWS.) Is your flowmeter graduated in LPM or CFH?
    DaveO
    Oxweld oxy acet gear
    IMIG 200
    PowerTIG 210 EXT... Amazing!

  5. Default

    i actually got the bottle refilled today at praxair daveo using a gas lens at 10 cfh

  6. #6

    Default

    You can do a leak-down test to find out if the hose connecting the bottle to the welder is leaking. Just pressurize the system, then close the valve on top of the cylinder and come back in a half hour and see how much the pressure has dropped. It may have dropped by 50 psi or so, but if it's dropped a lot, or to zero, you have a leak in your hose. If you ever see flow when you aren't welding, that also indicates a leak, but honestly it would have to be a pretty big leak for it to make the flow-meter blip.

    Testing whether the torch is leaking is a bit harder.

  7. Default

    there isnt any black specs but or rusty colour on the sheet but when i was using a piece of 1/8 there was a rust colour.

  8. #8

    Default

    An orange or rust-colored halo around the weld bead usually indicates you have dipped the electrode in the puddle.

  9. Default

    thanks alot buddy ill try and watch for that now.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Disneyland
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    Default

    If you have any breeze you might need more gas, too. Go up to 15 or 20 cfh and if the problem goes away, then for those conditions you were not running enough gas. The only way to get the ideal flow is to lower the flow until the weld suffers, then go a little up from there. There are a lot of factors that change how much you need, and experience will teach you to make pretty good estimations after a while. 20-25 cfh is about the max you want to run through a #7, but you can often get away with half that or less. Smaller cups less gas, larger cups more. Short stickout less gas required, long takes more. Some joints trap argon better so for things like flat inside corners you can really crank it down, but a vertical outside corner will need a lot more. The slightest air movement will increase your gas use, and once it gets to a breeze you can feel, you may not be able to TIG at all without some kind of wind break. If you don't have enough post flow, your tungsten will not last. A rule of thumb is 1 second of post flow for every 10 amps. Again this is just a starting point, but any time the tungsten is red, there absolutely has to be argon flowing, and for a little while after. Air cooled torches need longer than water cooled, and so on. If you dip your tungsten, stop and grind it if you want your welds to be quality. When you just start out the easiest thing is to sharpen a few so you can just swap them out and keep welding. After a while you will find you need to swap less and less.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  11. Default

    very helpful thanks

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