powerarc 300 good or okay

[AKweldshop]

Okay Guys I'm looking into buying the PowerArc 300 off amazon for $590
I used to have a new Lincoln Invertec v275s and it was the greatest stick welder in the world.... sold
So, I was looking into the PowerArc300 as her replacement....
I'm gonna be burning lots of 3/32 7018, 1/8 7018, 5/32 7018, 3/16 7018, 1/8 6010, 5/32 6010, 3/32 7024, and 5/32 7024....
How is the arc on the PowerArc300, will the arc snuff on 6010 whip-n-pause?
Can I run a 7018 vertical weave at 110 amps without the rod sticking?
Is the Arc Force/Dig setting as smooth as higher end arc's?
Dedicated Everlast owner and user, John

[Kempy]

I would contact Oleg at Everlast first you might get a better deal see below.

Phone: 650 588 8082 / 877 755 WELD
Cell: 415 613 6664 ONLY IF YOU REALLY NEED IT
Email: oleg@everlastwelders.com
Website www.everlastgenerators.com
www.linkedin.com/pub/oleg-gladshteyn/48/b08/875

[AKweldshop]

Well, the reason I said I was a Dedicated Everlast owner and user is because I have the PowerArc 160STH, And Its not the best tig machine, it seems to be off some.
Are you saying Everlast products can compare to Miller and Lincoln?
if so, I must of underestimated you guys, I just am not as Impressed with My 160STH as I used to be, Mainly cause it for some reason seems to have lost some of its punch.
I'm sorry I mouthed off about green stars and stripes.
I work around guys that badmouth chinese welders, and are telling me never to get involved with them.
I have been a know-it-all in the past, and a high-brow snob in the past.
I realize the error in my ways, I soon realized that the signature of some guy i saw says, "the more you learn, the more you know, how little you know.
Sorry I voiced my opinion so loud, I've worked around these kind of guys for years and picked up a bad habit or six.
My opoligies,

~John

[performance]

If it's off then we can work on helping you. It's a light unit, not made for heavy duty welding. All companies have their entry level product, and that is basically what the 160sth is. No frills, lighter duty cycle. I don't know how it could be "off" as you give no explanation. As far as loosing its punch, again, you haven't described what's going on. It simply could be a foot pedal out of whack and need adjusting or the HF gap needing cleaning/repositioning for better starts. Again with a blanket statement, you've not given us much to go on. I'd be willing to bet those" high class" machines that your work buddies talk good about you probably won't get a direct response like this from any of the guys in the HQ in any personal way.

Let me guess the guys you work with largely have no secondary education, little manners, some with criminal records, excessive boozers and /or suspected drug use and generally an all around rough and prejudiced crowd?

[AKweldshop]

thanks geezer.
I'll check in often, maybe I can contribute in some way.
Again, I am sorry about the whole deal.
And I will spend my money, and you all can spend your money.
Can't argue with that.

~John

[everlastsupport]

This thread will but out of site in a few days as more threads pile up on top of it. So I would not sweat it.

No reason to drop out of site. We are here for Everlast products, but also here to share projects and welding info. So hang around. Have some fun.

[AKweldshop]

anybody have my answer???
I want to buy this welder, and, it needs to meet my qualifications....
what say ye,
John

[performance]

I don't know if you've seen the video online of the unit. It is designed for 6010 use and has a separate port for it. The arc for 7018 is super smooth. You have controls for hot start and arc force...I've used it quite a bit. You have to adjust it to meet your needs, but the unit certainly is capable. Don't try to long arc the 6010 though since its an inverter. The unit handles 6010 quite well though. A lot of people who "whip and pause" whip too far by adding a flicking motion to the rod to raise it up. If you use more of a stepping motion and keep the whipping to a moderate length there is no issue. The unit is designed to shut down the inverter if the arc length grows too long. Again, you can see it in the videos we have online. We use 6010 with a very minimal setting for the most part. Still plenty of adjustment left. This is last years unit but the internal has remained largely the same with only the case and panel design are changed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Du6i...Rl1Kh2GcLadKS4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djzYQKxB7Os

[AKweldshop]

Maybe its just me, But the stick welding arc is pretty weak.
Not like it used to be, I wonder if I should try some different rods on it and see if it still acts up.
On the tig welding the HF, You haft to almost touch the tip maybe 1/8 away and the HF arc will jump the gap, but nothing like my old square wave, it would jump at least 3/4.
And the tig arc will snap and almost gouge and spray when you start, but it smooths out after 1/2 a second.

~john

[performance]

What is weak? On 240? Which rod? What size?

Different units start differently, but IF you are holding more than an 1/8" arc gap it is way too long. You should NOT be welding more than an 1/8" off either. I don't know why needing 3/4" arc gap would be a good thing. Cleaning and adjusting your points can make a big difference in the performance of the HF. Inverters carefully control the input amps...if the arc gets too long, it will shut down the inverter to prevent over current...
As far as the TIG arc I am not following? What do you mean by gouge and spray and snap? There are several things that can start issues....including, but not limited to gas flow issues with too much or too little, drafts etc. If you are seeing an arc flare, there may be a slight foot pedal problem but can be resolved if that is the problem.

[AKweldshop]

thanks,
glad we could come to some sort of truce.
~John

[AKweldshop]

ok thanks, vids were very informative, I'll pony up the dough and git er on the way.
thanks, John

[performance]

ok thanks, vids were very informative, I'll pony up the dough and git er on the way.
thanks, John

Let me know if you want one, and I can give you a deal.

[AKweldshop]

Let me know if you want one, and I can give you a deal.

how good of a deal?
I'm in Palmer AK
Amazon has them $590.00 and free shipping RIGHT to my door!
Can you beat that???
John

[TheGary]

You need to call Mark. they do not discuss prices on the forum. I believe it will be to your advantage to call them. I was looking at a plasma from Everlast on Amzon. I called and I am not sorry I did.

[performance]

Should be able to beat the price. PM me...or as Gary said, call. The direct approach is always the best when dealing with sales.

[AKweldshop]

I guess I don't have much ground to pick a fight with.
My 160 has its good points, I've used in on 110v 100' extension cords (heavy ones) running 1/8 6011 day after day welding on trailers, I guess I worked it pretty hard.
I am sorry I got up in arms about this whole deal.
I will try to make comments based on informed information based on solid information in the future.
~John

[AKweldshop]

Well the arc makes a snapping sound when it starts up, but it smooths right out.
stick welding with 1/8 7018, the arc is really weak, rods stick all the time, and you haft to turn it up to at least 135 amps, and welding vertical, you cant weld below 120 amps or the rods cuts out.
It used to be a good stick welder, with 7018, and I have used it heavy, Maybe the bushings are just getting some play in them.
It runs a 6011 really nice, just not the smoothest with 7018

[performance]

120 amps is the minimum on the books to run 7018 by almost any manufacturer or somewhere close to that for 1/8" rod. In fact it's usually somewhere between 120-175 amps.

The TIG arc making a snapping sound is the sound of the HF.

[ironmanjay]

I have the 160STH and run all those rods except for the 6010. I have no issues so I am sure the 300 will serve you well. I have run 7018 at 125 and tried to reach my duty cycle with regular welding and have yet to do so.