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Thread: Tig torch pot

  1. Default Tig torch pot

    Does anybody know if there is a tig torch with the pot built in, like an adjustable trigger? Operates like the foot pedal, but with a finger used to operate it? Or if there is a reason or two why it couldn't be done? Sure does seem like it could make things a lot easier, especially when welding out of position, or any time not welding on a bench, etc.... I know there torches with an adjusting knob or slider type adjustment already out there, but a "finger pedal" would be pretty good, if it was do-able

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    Quote Originally Posted by ljdm1956 View Post
    Does anybody know if there is a tig torch with the pot built in, like an adjustable trigger? Operates like the foot pedal, but with a finger used to operate it? Or if there is a reason or two why it couldn't be done? Sure does seem like it could make things a lot easier, especially when welding out of position, or any time not welding on a bench, etc.... I know there torches with an adjusting knob or slider type adjustment already out there, but a "finger pedal" would be pretty good, if it was do-able
    It is doable, and I think Airco had one like that once. Most welders hated it. The problem is that they are hard to control and especially in tight places where you might be holding the torch in odd positions. While it works for a MIG gun, that is just on and off. holding a spring loaded type adjuster in just the right position for long periods is not easy. As it is, even the best finger controls can't match the precision of a pedal. It's all about travel and ability to control the current at extremely high accuracy. For a lot of thin stuff, just a few amps can make all the difference. There is also the fatigue factor for holding something like that. I know more than one welder that even removes the springs in the rocker type pedals so they can have more control. It's all about the ergonomics of welding. Good welds are all about being as comfortable and in control as you can. I don't know any welders that hold the TIG torch like a MIG gun, hence all the different type and placement of finger controls. About the closest is walking the cup on pipe, and you don't really need amp control for that. I don't know of any welder that actually likes any finger control, they use them only because they have to, when a pedal is just not practical. These days with programmable welders, there is even less need, as you can do all the slope programming and just use a torch switch.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  3. Default

    I've always thought this was interesting, I'd like to try it too BUT,,, doesn't seem like it would be ergonomic at All. There's a rhythm to TIG welding, it's like Knitting...

    It's hard for me to imagine that, coming to an"edge", somewhere you need to start backing-off the amps, it's going to be comfortable to start to shift a finger, in a deliberate careful way, and not disturb that rhythm. I'm sure it's something you could get used to, lots of people must have! I donno, as I said I'd like to try

    There's a few choices out there;

    http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...hlight=control
    http://www.ckworldwide.com/amperage_controls.htm

  4. Default

    I was looking for an alternative to the foot pedal for the times it is really inconvenient to use your foot, not necessarily a full time control. But I guess if a control of that type isn't available, there must be a good reason - like it's just not a good idea, etc If one was out there, I would at least try it

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    Quote Originally Posted by ljdm1956 View Post
    I was looking for an alternative to the foot pedal for the times it is really inconvenient to use your foot, not necessarily a full time control. But I guess if a control of that type isn't available, there must be a good reason - like it's just not a good idea, etc If one was out there, I would at least try it
    Oh there are plenty of alternatives to a pedal, many types of finger controls, just nothing like a trigger. There are rotary knobs, linear slides and that CK track type. Different people like different ones, but all of them have one thing in common, they stay in place, so you don't need to hold them at precisely the right spot without moving during the weld. I could see a rocker type device as another possibility, but again not with spring loading. TIG is a precise process and to get those results precise torch control is a must.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

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    Default Tig torch pot

    Another thing is that precise manipulation of the TIG torch (e.g, to carefully control arc length and torch angle) is necessary, and using a hand-operated lever-type amptrol like you're suggesting would leave fewer fingers to manipulate the torch (and operation of the lever may cause unintended torch angle and arc length changes).

    You really can do pretty good with a simple "on/off" torch switch, IMO, when a foot pedal is impractical. To approach the control offered by a foot pedal when using the torch switch, do expect spending a bit of effort to dial in the settings on the panel face. I like to weld with about 2-3 seconds of downslope, then you can manually vary the torch switch "duty cycle" to regulate the output current much better than just holding the torch down solid. It also gives you the ability to press down solid to light up and firm the puddle quickly at the beginning.
    Last edited by jakeru; 03-18-2014 at 06:48 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeru View Post
    Another thing is that precise manipulation of the TIG torch (e.g, to carefully control arc length and torch angle) is necessary, and using a hand-operated lever-type amptrol like you're suggesting would leave fewer fingers to manipulate the torch (and operation of the lever may cause unintended torch angle and arc length changes).

    You really can do pretty good with a simple "on/off" torch switch, IMO, when a foot pedal is impractical. To approach the control offered by a foot pedal when using the torch switch, do expect spending a bit of effort to dial in the settings on the panel face. I like to weld with about 2-3 seconds of downslope, then you can manually vary the torch switch "duty cycle" to regulate the output current much better than just holding the torch down solid. It also gives you the ability to press down solid to light up and firm the puddle quickly at the beginning.

    I agree fully with Jake. I use the torch switch a lot of the time now even when I have the option of using the pedal, simply for more practice. I've chosen to use the torch switch when installing patch panels on my project cars (much less fire hazard over MIG welding and a more malleable seam for hammer and dolly work). To be honest it isn't that big of a deal once you get the hang of things.

    Having more than enough experience in welding sheet metal gave me what I needed to "adapt" over to the torch switch (which I used to think was useless until I bought my TIG welder with the torch switch included). The hardest part for me was figuring out just how many amps you need for what you're welding (easy enough to figure out, especially if you can adjust the amps while tacking your pieces together), and the second hardest part was learning to keep a steady rhythm and travel speed with no amperage control. If you are an experienced tig weldor, you shouldn't have much trouble learning to use the torch switch.

    And for what it's worth, the only time I used an amperage knob on a torch, I grew to hate it rather quickly. One slight move and suddenly you're welding with too much or too little amperage, or worse, the torch is slipping and jumping around in your hand. I suppose if you were determined enough, you could become very proficient with amperage control "on the fly", but the 5 or 10 minutes I spent welding with that knob left me feeling frustrated and unimpressed. YMMV.
    Andy
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