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Thread: New Tig Welder!

  1. Default New Tig Welder!

    Hi guys!

    I bought a Everlast 185 AC/DC tig welder few days ago. I never welded with tig, i only have a little idea. I read and saw videos about tig welding and differences of adjust in the machine. I have a 47OHM foot pedal. The pedal is the correct for this machine? So, i need buy electrodes and rods. I want weld aluminum and stainless steel, my priority is aluminum. What electrodes i need for aluminum and stainless and what rods. I saw differents sizes, ex. "aluminum rods of 1/16" x 36", 1/8" x 36", etc. I saw differents electrodes by colors, differents sizes and differents descriptions, ex. "2% Lanthanated Tungsten TIG Electrodes 1/8 x 7 Blue", etc. If any can help me about is appreciated!

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfweld View Post
    Hi guys!

    I bought a Everlast 185 AC/DC tig welder few days ago. I never welded with tig, i only have a little idea. I read and saw videos about tig welding and differences of adjust in the machine. I have a 47OHM foot pedal. The pedal is the correct for this machine? So, i need buy electrodes and rods. I want weld aluminum and stainless steel, my priority is aluminum. What electrodes i need for aluminum and stainless and what rods. I saw differents sizes, ex. "aluminum rods of 1/16" x 36", 1/8" x 36", etc. I saw differents electrodes by colors, differents sizes and differents descriptions, ex. "2% Lanthanated Tungsten TIG Electrodes 1/8 x 7 Blue", etc. If any can help me about is appreciated!

    Thanks!
    Go to www.weldingtipsandtricks.com you will find lots of great information for beginners. If you had to pick one tungsten, you could do just about everything on that machine with 3/32" 2% Lanthanated. Filler material is dependent on what you are welding. 4043 and 5356 being the two main ones for aluminum, ER70-S2 for carbon steel, and 309 for most stainless steels. The size depends on what you are welding. You should focus on learning with carbon steel before going to aluminum. It requires practice to develop the skills required.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    ... and 309 for most stainless steels.
    Do you mean 308 here? It covers 301-305 types of stainless which is the vast majority of the material that's out there (304 and 303 esp.)
    I do 316 & 304 mostly, and use 316 filler pretty much exclusively to prevent mixups and since it does no harm to 304.
    I understand though that 309 is a good mystery metal rod, but I thought it was primarily for steel to stainless steel welds.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Moir View Post
    I understand though that 309 is a good mystery metal rod, but I thought it was primarily for steel to stainless steel welds.
    That's why I listed it for a newbie. It will work for both 300 and 400 series stainless and almost any other chrome or nickel alloy that might be mistaken for stainless.
    With so little information I have no idea what type of material this person will run into or is talking about. Every field has it's own materials that people in that field think is common everywhere, when that isn't always the case.
    Last edited by Rambozo; 05-05-2014 at 11:34 PM.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Go to www.weldingtipsandtricks.com you will find lots of great information for beginners. If you had to pick one tungsten, you could do just about everything on that machine with 3/32" 2% Lanthanated. Filler material is dependent on what you are welding. 4043 and 5356 being the two main ones for aluminum, ER70-S2 for carbon steel, and 309 for most stainless steels. The size depends on what you are welding. You should focus on learning with carbon steel before going to aluminum. It requires practice to develop the skills required.
    Electrodes ordered! I'm reading about and waiting for the electrodes for practice. More posts soon! :-)

    Thanks!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    That's why I listed it for a newbie.
    Thanks, gotcha!

  7. Default

    I'm back guys but a little frustrated! I have green electrodes 3/32x7 and i fried 2 and i dont know why. I don't have a stabilized arc, i damage a #6 ceramic cup, i tried differents settings, set to 20 LPM gas flow, etc. I read and reas and read about but i change settings, techniques and nothing good. My electrode tips melt and i dont know why. Is my green electrodes incorrect for welding aluminum? I can try with a blue electrodes... ;-)!

    My setting for my everlast 180:
    * AC (For aluminnum)
    * 75 AMPs
    * 50% AC Balance
    * 120 AC frequency
    * 4 post flow
    Last edited by alfweld; 06-02-2014 at 11:47 PM.

  8. #8

    Default

    50% balance...beginning of your problems right there. Tungsten is the second issue...wrong. Did you read your manual? It covers this in detail.

    Green should not ever be used in an inverter. Your balance needs to settle right around 35%. You should also be clamping directly to the work piece. The torch should be in negative, if it is not. Frequency helps stabilize the arc...so you can go up from where you are if you are still having issues, but if you correct the others, you should be 95% of the way there. Please though, sit and read the manual.

    I am also assuming you mean A PowerTIG 185? There is no 180. Your amperage is also probably low if it is 1/16" or over.

  9. #9

    Default

    PowerTig 185 manual> http://www.everlastgenerators.com/si...rTig%20185.pdf
    Blue or red tungsten... never green.
    6 to 8 lpm argon flow.

    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  10. #10

    Default

    Page 18:
    When welding AC (aluminum or magnesium),
    start with a setting of 30% for the AC balance
    and a setting of 120 for the AC Frequency.

    AND:
    A setting of 20-
    40% is
    recommended with 30% generally being consid-
    ered ideal. If the AC balance is adjusted higher
    than 40%, balling and rapid wear of the tung-
    sten may be experienced. If the AC balance is
    adjusted to less than 20%, the welds may ap-
    pear contaminated and dull, unless a helium/
    argon mix is used, and/or the oxidation layer has
    been thoroughly removed.


    Page 11:
    Do not use Green( Pure) for AC in Inverter
    welders. Arc will not be stable.



  11. Default

    Thanks guys! I check the blue electrodes today in the local shop and more practice in the afternoon. More posts soon!

    Thanks!

  12. Default

    Again here with bads results. I bought a red electrodes (3/32" x 7") and i fried 4 inches! I have a ball in the tip and i dont know what happened. I think is a 90% my fault but im feel frustrated. I love my mig lincoln welder and my stick but now i want tig and is other universe . Machine set to 75amps, change the balance to 30%, frequency, very clean aluminum and still some problems.





    1/8" aluminum
    Last edited by alfweld; 06-05-2014 at 09:46 PM.

  13. #13

    Default

    Your machine is set to 50% in this picture, and your unit is set for lift start. Your frequency looks a little low...but that won't fry it. You don't have a true ball, so I'm guessing you may have one (or more) of the following issues:
    1) Torch is in wrong port. It should be in negative
    2) Using the same or similar gas you use for your MIG. You can only use 100% pure Argon for TIG
    3) Contaminated gas...causes same issues as having wrong gas. T he smoking inside the cup would suggest bad gas.
    4) Gas is not flowing. Tap switch with post flow turned up, do you hear the gas coming from the nozzle. (Don't put it to your ear though as tungsten can hurt, and if you accidentally tap the switch on the torch, your eyeballs will fly out of your head.
    5) You have a draft blowing your gas off the weld. Move the welder off the table so a draft will not disturb it. TIG is very sensitive to the slightest breeze.

  14. #14
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    My 2ยข is that you really might want to start with basic DC steel TIG before moving on to aluminum. It will help you build the skills you need. It is also easier to troubleshoot problems you might have with settings and gas flow. Aluminum amplifies any problems with your setup or technique. Only when you can run a decent bead on steel, should you attempt aluminum.
    Also are you using the pedal or torch switch? Again, the pedal will make learning easier, as you can adjust amps while looking at the puddle.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  15. Default

    I'm using brand new 100% argon gas tank.

    Here is the other parts:







    Thanks guys!
    Last edited by alfweld; 06-06-2014 at 12:01 AM.

  16. #16

    Default

    Like I suspected, you have the torch in the wrong side. It should be connected to the negative side. I believe I pointed this out earlier too? This will make a big difference.

  17. Default

    My bad.... Sorry guys! I check again this night!

    Thanks!
    Last edited by alfweld; 06-06-2014 at 02:06 PM.

  18. Default

    Good news! I changed the terminals and now are correct. I'm practice with steel and looks good. More posts and questions soon! Thanks guys!

  19. #19

    Default

    Good,
    Let's see some soon.

  20. Default

    I'm done. I practiced with steel and looks "little decent" but in AC with aluminum is horrible. I damage again the tip of the electrode and the arc is horrible, never stabilized. I saw videos, read books, comments in the forum and change setups but with bad results. I don't know why i have some problems with this. I used mig and stick machines for years and this tig machine make me feel so bad and furious.

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