New Tig Welder!

[alfweld]

Hi guys!

I bought a Everlast 185 AC/DC tig welder few days ago. I never welded with tig, i only have a little idea. I read and saw videos about tig welding and differences of adjust in the machine. I have a 47OHM foot pedal. The pedal is the correct for this machine? So, i need buy electrodes and rods. I want weld aluminum and stainless steel, my priority is aluminum. What electrodes i need for aluminum and stainless and what rods. I saw differents sizes, ex. "aluminum rods of 1/16" x 36", 1/8" x 36", etc. I saw differents electrodes by colors, differents sizes and differents descriptions, ex. "2% Lanthanated Tungsten TIG Electrodes 1/8 x 7 Blue", etc. If any can help me about is appreciated!

Thanks!

[Rambozo]

Hi guys!

I bought a Everlast 185 AC/DC tig welder few days ago. I never welded with tig, i only have a little idea. I read and saw videos about tig welding and differences of adjust in the machine. I have a 47OHM foot pedal. The pedal is the correct for this machine? So, i need buy electrodes and rods. I want weld aluminum and stainless steel, my priority is aluminum. What electrodes i need for aluminum and stainless and what rods. I saw differents sizes, ex. "aluminum rods of 1/16" x 36", 1/8" x 36", etc. I saw differents electrodes by colors, differents sizes and differents descriptions, ex. "2% Lanthanated Tungsten TIG Electrodes 1/8 x 7 Blue", etc. If any can help me about is appreciated!

Thanks!

Go to www.weldingtipsandtricks.com you will find lots of great information for beginners. If you had to pick one tungsten, you could do just about everything on that machine with 3/32" 2% Lanthanated. Filler material is dependent on what you are welding. 4043 and 5356 being the two main ones for aluminum, ER70-S2 for carbon steel, and 309 for most stainless steels. The size depends on what you are welding. You should focus on learning with carbon steel before going to aluminum. It requires practice to develop the skills required.

[Paul Moir]

... and 309 for most stainless steels.

Do you mean 308 here? It covers 301-305 types of stainless which is the vast majority of the material that's out there (304 and 303 esp.)
I do 316 & 304 mostly, and use 316 filler pretty much exclusively to prevent mixups and since it does no harm to 304.
I understand though that 309 is a good mystery metal rod, but I thought it was primarily for steel to stainless steel welds.

[Rambozo]

I understand though that 309 is a good mystery metal rod, but I thought it was primarily for steel to stainless steel welds.

That's why I listed it for a newbie. It will work for both 300 and 400 series stainless and almost any other chrome or nickel alloy that might be mistaken for stainless.
With so little information I have no idea what type of material this person will run into or is talking about. Every field has it's own materials that people in that field think is common everywhere, when that isn't always the case.

[Paul Moir]

That's why I listed it for a newbie.

Thanks, gotcha!

[alfweld]

Go to www.weldingtipsandtricks.com you will find lots of great information for beginners. If you had to pick one tungsten, you could do just about everything on that machine with 3/32" 2% Lanthanated. Filler material is dependent on what you are welding. 4043 and 5356 being the two main ones for aluminum, ER70-S2 for carbon steel, and 309 for most stainless steels. The size depends on what you are welding. You should focus on learning with carbon steel before going to aluminum. It requires practice to develop the skills required.

Electrodes ordered! I'm reading about and waiting for the electrodes for practice. More posts soon! :-)

Thanks!

[alfweld]

I'm back guys but a little frustrated! I have green electrodes 3/32x7 and i fried 2 and i dont know why. I don't have a stabilized arc, i damage a #6 ceramic cup, i tried differents settings, set to 20 LPM gas flow, etc. I read and reas and read about but i change settings, techniques and nothing good. My electrode tips melt and i dont know why. Is my green electrodes incorrect for welding aluminum? I can try with a blue electrodes... ;-)!

My setting for my everlast 180:
* AC (For aluminnum)
* 75 AMPs
* 50% AC Balance
* 120 AC frequency
* 4 post flow

[performance]

50% balance...beginning of your problems right there. Tungsten is the second issue...wrong. Did you read your manual? It covers this in detail.

Green should not ever be used in an inverter. Your balance needs to settle right around 35%. You should also be clamping directly to the work piece. The torch should be in negative, if it is not. Frequency helps stabilize the arc...so you can go up from where you are if you are still having issues, but if you correct the others, you should be 95% of the way there. Please though, sit and read the manual.

I am also assuming you mean A PowerTIG 185? There is no 180. Your amperage is also probably low if it is 1/16" or over.

[zoama]

PowerTig 185 manual> http://www.everlastgenerators.com/si...rTig%20185.pdf
Blue or red tungsten... never green.
6 to 8 lpm argon flow.

[performance]

Page 18:
When welding AC (aluminum or magnesium),
start with a setting of 30% for the AC balance
and a setting of 120 for the AC Frequency.

AND:
A setting of 20-
40% is
recommended with 30% generally being consid-
ered ideal. If the AC balance is adjusted higher
than 40%, balling and rapid wear of the tung-
sten may be experienced. If the AC balance is
adjusted to less than 20%, the welds may ap-
pear contaminated and dull, unless a helium/
argon mix is used, and/or the oxidation layer has
been thoroughly removed.


Page 11:
Do not use Green( Pure) for AC in Inverter
welders. Arc will not be stable.

[alfweld]

Here is my argon tank:


Trying! Looks HORRIBLE I dont know why!


My brand new 7"electrode and 1/8" 4043 rod.

[Rambozo]

That does look horrible.
I think you do have some kind of gas problem. First off 18 LPM is a pretty high for that size cup. Start with half that and for alum, I would use a #7 or #8 cup. Please show some of your steel welds as that will help figure out what you have going on. Also check your torch to make sure there are no air leaks in the argon setup. There is also the chance that you got a bad tank of gas. It has happened more than once to people on this forum.

Also don't use a steel brush. It needs to be stainless steel and only used for aluminum.

[alfweld]

I have a question all time in my head... Why i can't have a good arc? I cleaned and used the red (recommended) electrode but with the same bad results. Other is why when i want add the rod to the fusion, the tip of the rod jump back. Why i can't thaw the rod correctly?

[performance]

Your torch angle is too much....the heat is being directed too far forward. Hold the torch more upright. (I think by thaw, you mean "melt"). You may also need a larger rod.

What are you using to clean the aluminum? Also you need to hold the torch abou 1/8" or less off the metal.

[alfweld]

Your torch angle is too much....the heat is being directed too far forward. Hold the torch more upright. (I think by thaw, you mean "melt"). You may also need a larger rod.

What are you using to clean the aluminum? Also you need to hold the torch abou 1/8" or less off the metal.

Sorry! Yes, is "melt". I have a 6 cup in my torch. Maybe i have too much gas flow (18 LPM) for this cup? I have 1/8" rods and for clean the aluminum i use a steel brush and acetone. Any other techniques? :-) I want practice again...

Thanks!

[alfweld]

Thanks guys! I check the blue electrodes today in the local shop and more practice in the afternoon. More posts soon!

Thanks!

[alfweld]

Again here with bads results. I bought a red electrodes (3/32" x 7") and i fried 4 inches! I have a ball in the tip and i dont know what happened. I think is a 90% my fault but im feel frustrated. I love my mig lincoln welder and my stick but now i want tig and is other universe . Machine set to 75amps, change the balance to 30%, frequency, very clean aluminum and still some problems.





1/8" aluminum

[performance]

Your machine is set to 50% in this picture, and your unit is set for lift start. Your frequency looks a little low...but that won't fry it. You don't have a true ball, so I'm guessing you may have one (or more) of the following issues:
1) Torch is in wrong port. It should be in negative
2) Using the same or similar gas you use for your MIG. You can only use 100% pure Argon for TIG
3) Contaminated gas...causes same issues as having wrong gas. T he smoking inside the cup would suggest bad gas.
4) Gas is not flowing. Tap switch with post flow turned up, do you hear the gas coming from the nozzle. (Don't put it to your ear though as tungsten can hurt, and if you accidentally tap the switch on the torch, your eyeballs will fly out of your head.
5) You have a draft blowing your gas off the weld. Move the welder off the table so a draft will not disturb it. TIG is very sensitive to the slightest breeze.

[Rambozo]

My 2¢ is that you really might want to start with basic DC steel TIG before moving on to aluminum. It will help you build the skills you need. It is also easier to troubleshoot problems you might have with settings and gas flow. Aluminum amplifies any problems with your setup or technique. Only when you can run a decent bead on steel, should you attempt aluminum.
Also are you using the pedal or torch switch? Again, the pedal will make learning easier, as you can adjust amps while looking at the puddle.

[alfweld]

I'm back and here is my first steel practice: