30A fitted to MTS250S

[zoama]

I would think that all you would need are brushes and bearings. Not hard to adapt replacements of those.

Yep, that's what I was thinking. Larger brushes can be cut to fit and bushings can be cut or resized.

[Kempy]

Test new settings to gun tip and voltage to wire speed on gun suggested by Yofish just need more practices to get it closer keeping notes. All welds are working in spray mode no splatter the welding material is .125 aluminum plate.

[Yofish]

Kempy, you've got it! Now it's just a matter of technique. You will find as you proceed that many times all the 'control' you will do is adjusting wire speed for the differing welding positions encountered. For example, on a skiff I'm building right now I could show you a flat lap, a flat butt, a lap vertical up, a lap down and a fillet within a foot of one another all done by adjusting the wire only. BTW, according to Miller, you're not 'spraying' because the voltage is too low!

[Kempy]

Kempy, you've got it! Now it's just a matter of technique. You will find as you proceed that many times all the 'control' you will do is adjusting wire speed for the differing welding positions encountered. For example, on a skiff I'm building right now I could show you a flat lap, a flat butt, a lap vertical up, a lap down and a fillet within a foot of one another all done by adjusting the wire only. BTW, according to Miller, you're not 'spraying' because the voltage is too low!

Yofish
If it is not in Spray Arc Transfer i have no splatter and it is welding with good heat and very little black smoke on the work pieces what do they call in-between Spray Arc Transfer and Short Circuit Transfer a nice welded

[Yofish]

Yofish
If it is not in Spray Arc Transfer i have no splatter and it is welding with good heat and very little black smoke on the work pieces what do they call in-between Spray Arc Transfer and Short Circuit Transfer a nice welded

Ha ha, do you really want to go there? If I answer, it will only be pointed out that I don't know what I'm talking about. I want to tell you this, it has been a pleasure to give you some small help in your quest which appears to be a success. There is satisfaction for me in that. I like what you're doing with the tests, most don't do that, and suggest you go up the volts and up and down with the wire until you get the welds that are right for you. There are no set this-is-the-way-it-is rules. Also, aluminum is not steel. And what you know about steel does not apply to AL. Kevin bailed on those discussions when the videos (on steel) that were offered as examples of arc forms because, as he told me, it wasn't worth the effort. Hey, the guy has only built 200 boats, WTF does he know anyway?

Here is what Miller says you're 'sposed to do and good luck with it as your unerring guide. I use many times, the wonderful Gershwin line from his Porgy and Bess opera, "The things that you're are liable, to read in the Bible, they ain't necessarily so." Now, having said that I won't deny that these settings will not work. It's the times that they don't, for numerous reasons, that make them to be taken lightly:

[TheGary]

Just an FYI, there is a 30A drive motor on ebay for $100 if anyone wants a spare. He has 2 of them.

[Yofish]

Just an FYI, there is a 30A drive motor on ebay for $100 if anyone wants a spare. He has 2 of them.

How 'bout a link. nothing I type in the search box comes close.

[TheGary]

You must have been too late. I had it in my watch list and I looked at them just now and there sold. Im afraid I do not know how to post a link.

On another note, I stumbled into a early 2nd gen 30A today. I paid $400 for it. Not as good a deal as you got Kempy but still a good deal. It has hardly been used but it has a 10 pin amphenol on it instead of a 14 pin like my welders have. Miller wants $150 for an adapter cable. I guess Im on the look out for a 14 pin amphenol and I will just change the end of the cable.

[Yofish]

You must have been too late. I had it in my watch list and I looked at them just now and there sold. Im afraid I do not know how to post a link.

On another note, I stumbled into a early 2nd gen 30A today. I paid $400 for it. Not as good a deal as you got Kempy but still a good deal. It has hardly been used but it has a 10 pin amphenol on it instead of a 14 pin like my welders have. Miller wants $150 for an adapter cable. I guess Im on the look out for a 14 pin amphenol and I will just change the end of the cable.

That was me! I finally found the link. He had some other 30A goodies, thanks for the tip. $400 is still a GREAT deal relative to what they bring on eBay. As I've said, Miller is obscene for their prices on many of their parts; was able to find a CO that had the Amphenols (long ago lost info) much cheaper than Miller. You'll need 5 conductor #18 (I think) wire. I blew my back out and have been unable to work for two days and I can tell it will be at least another so I'll look for the amphenols out of boredom.

I forgot to tell Kempy this but it's a good idea to take your gun apart (3 socket hex screws) and check for two things: the power cable tends to fray at the clamp and being hidden, you can't see that your unit is drawing more amps than it should because of the diminished conductor and two, check the bearing block under the drive roll as when that bering goes the wire tends to spool erratically. The first is easy to fix and the second is a standard bearing.

Other things to be aware of is the pot in the handle can get goofy and it helps to run it up and down periodically, A small leak in the gas cap valve gets expensive, I throw my drive rolls in caustic soda to boil the aluminum out of the teeth (wire brush will just wear them out quicker) and as you already know with your Spoolmatic don't OVER TIGHTEN THE DRIVE ROLL TENSION.

Here is the manual for your gun:

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1213p_mil.pdf

Thanks again for the tip, I've never before found one on eBay.

[TheGary]

That was me! I finally found the link. He had some other 30A goodies, thanks for the tip. $400 is still a GREAT deal relative to what they bring on eBay. As I've said, Miller is obscene for their prices on many of their parts; was able to find a CO that had the Amphenols (long ago lost info) much cheaper than Miller. You'll need 5 conductor #18 (I think) wire. I blew my back out and have been unable to work for two days and I can tell it will be at least another so I'll look for the amphenols out of boredom.

I forgot to tell Kempy this but it's a good idea to take your gun apart (3 socket hex screws) and check for two things: the power cable tends to fray at the clamp and being hidden, you can't see that your unit is drawing more amps than it should because of the diminished conductor and two, check the bearing block under the drive roll as when that bering goes the wire tends to spool erratically. The first is easy to fix and the second is a standard bearing.

Other things to be aware of is the pot in the handle can get goofy and it helps to run it up and down periodically, A small leak in the gas cap valve gets expensive, I throw my drive rolls in caustic soda to boil the aluminum out of the teeth (wire brush will just wear them out quicker) and as you already know with your Spoolmatic don't OVER TIGHTEN THE DRIVE ROLL TENSION.

Here is the manual for your gun:

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1213p_mil.pdf

Thanks again for the tip, I've never before found one on eBay.

Good , Im glade it was you that got them. I felt bad that I could not post a link. I thought it cost you a good deal on parts. Thanks for the tips on taking care of the 30A.

[Kempy]

Yofish
Thanks for the update on things to look for, took the gun apart and the pot plastic nut was lose and the power cable set screw was very lose. Cleaned everything and put it back together, it works just fine. The 10 ohm pot is the same as the Everlast Spoolgun same nut size same rod length for the dial 1 to 10 same set screw size. Now I have two spare ones.

[Yofish]

Yofish
Thanks for the update on things to look for, took the gun apart and the pot plastic nut was lose and the power cable set screw was very lose. Cleaned everything and put it back together, it works just fine. The 10 ohm pot is the same as the Everlast Spoolgun same nut size same rod length for the dial 1 to 10 same set screw size. Now I have two spare ones.

So Kempy, how are things going with your new setup? I assume no news is good news.

[Kempy]

So Kempy, how are things going with your new setup? I assume no news is good news.

Yofish
I been so busy with my part time job I have no time to do any of the welding jobs sitting around the shop. The escort drive is sick so I have to take the job for a while have to drive 500 miles a day plus boarder crossing time with the oversize loads they have to stop traffic to let us across and if it is busy we wait and wait yesterday was almost 5 hours. Also got my new 325EXT and don't have time to try it but it looks good and the new Tig guns are nice.