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  1. #1
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    Default Flux Core?

    Hi all. I am trying to weld 16 gauge square tube to a 1/4" plate. And seem to have trouble getting a good looking bead. I am using .030 Hobart FC. And an I Mig 140E. I am having trouble finding the correct V and Wire feed. Comes out clumpy.

    Thanks
    Elantramax1

  2. #2

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    Correct voltage and wire speed? Have you made sure you have the correct polarity? And are using the correct Flux core drive rolls?

  3. #3
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    I have th F Drive Roller. Torch- Neg, Clamp-Pos

  4. #4

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    Well, check the groove and make sure it is the right size and make sure it is not riding on top of the roller and is fully in the groove. Check the drive tension, and check the spool tension and make sure it isn't hanging or is really tight. The roll shouldn't coast but it should stop dead either. Which drive roll combination of sizes did you get? I can't recall right off my head which sizes that are available for it, but if the groove is too large or small, it could be an issue. .8 is .030".

    One of the other possibilities is that you aren't making a good work clamp connection. The work clamp should be attached directly to the metal. Do not run it through the table for best results. Or, it could be the work clamp itself isn't making good connection.

  5. #5

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    Addditionally, check out the information here. It has all the specifications for your particular type wire. It gives amps and volts for running it in the pdf info on each product....Don't know what to suggest because we don't know the specific wire you have. http://www.hobartbrothers.com/produc...-shielded.html

  6. #6
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    I turned the V up to about 2 1/2. Started punching through the tubing. Left a blob on the inside. Seems V2 and Wire 2 gives me the better results. Not the best. Guess only the Solid and Shielding gas will do that.

  7. #7

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    Don't go to Tractor Supply. Go to you local welding supplier. A 125 can be rented easily for about 4-6 bucks a month.

  8. #8
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    Today I went to the place in Mt Holly. He said the Fill on a 60 would run $30. He might have a Used tank coming in tomorrow. A 60CF from an AC/Refrigeration man that is closing his business. Its a Nitrogen tank. Same 580 Valve. He didn't give me an exact price. But said Used 60s run $50-$60. I may have found what I need. Oh yeah, Mt Holly is a UEZ. So its a 3.5% Sales Tax zone. Instead of the full 7%.

  9. #9

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    16 gauge is about the limit for flux core. I think you are expecting a lot here, more than what you can get out of flux core. Flux core really is intended for much heavier weldments. But if you are getting little blobs inside, that is what it is supposed to do. Otherwise, you don't have penetration, you have something that is barely glued together.

    But here you have these flat U shaped ripples which also indicate you moved too slowly. The ripples should be more convex (concave...I suppose depends upon how you view it), but whatever, the ripples should have more arch and a bit more separation. You should not end up with elongated V's, but simply crisp, U's with a good bit of arch across the bead face.

  10. #10
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    On the V2 and W2 setting I get a bluish spot on the inside. If I turn the V up a bit to 2 1/2, Its looks like its too much. Leaving sunken spots on the outside. Maybe 2 1/4? When I find some more scrap, Trial and Error time.

    I was trying to keep the scrap piece from moving too much. Its only about 2" long.

  11. #11

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    Your wirespeed is probably low...but the question is, did you go and read what the suggested voltage and amp/wire speed settings were for your wire? Even if it does not have a digital meter, you can determine wire speed easily enough, and get a pretty good guess where voltage would be on the dial by dividing up the range of voltage (given on the specification data found on the unit) into 10 parts. YOu should be able to get pretty close. I am not sure but it sounds as if you don't know that the metal is supposed to melt through for proper penetration. It should be hanging in globs, but should have a neat little line or "bulge". The bluish spot only means the metal is getting hot. It doesn't mean you are getting penetration.

    Welding on top of a piece of metal really is not the best way to learn. You need to fit up some joints and then tack them together before welding a solid seam. You are probably delaying your learning curve by trying to keep welding on thin metal like this.

  12. #12
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    Got the 60 CF Filled for $60 today. While I was there someone else was asking for one. The Stamp is 9/14.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elantramax1 View Post
    Got the 60 CF Filled for $60 today. While I was there someone else was asking for one. The Stamp is 9/14.
    We get 350+ tanks done for $28. That is a lot of money. 150 here is $34 on owner tanks.
    Mike R.
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    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  14. #14
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    How does this look? I have been trying to clean up some of my bad spots.

    Thanks

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elantramax1 View Post
    Hi all. I am trying to weld 16 gauge square tube to a 1/4" plate. And seem to have trouble getting a good looking bead. I am using .030 Hobart FC. And an I Mig 140E. I am having trouble finding the correct V and Wire feed. Comes out clumpy.

    Thanks
    Elantramax1
    Pictures always help.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  16. #16
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hobart E71T-11 .030

    This stuff is really Smokey. I grinded it down a bit. If I run the V at #4 sometimes it seems to blow through. Turned it down a bit to fill in.
    Last edited by Elantramax1; 09-07-2014 at 02:16 AM.

  17. #17

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    Is the wire feeding smoothly into the puddle or does it pop, skip, stub ? How close do you keep the tip to the puddle ? Are you grounding to bare metal ?
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elantramax1 View Post
    This stuff is really Smokey. I grinded it down a bit. If I run the V at #4 sometimes it seems to blow through. Turned it down a bit to fill in.
    For the kind of stuff you are building, I think you would be a lot happier with solid wire MIG and C25 instead of flux core.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  19. #19
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    I am grounding to bare metal. Cant really see the puddle. A little bit of popping.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elantramax1 View Post
    Cant really see the puddle.
    You need to correct that. You might need to try a different shade depending on your vision. The usual starting point for what you are doing is #10, but you might do better with a #9 or #11. Also with flux core or stick welding, you will periodically need to clean or replace your cover glass, as it gets covered with smoke debris and spatter.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

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