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Thread: Flux Core?

  1. #1
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    Default Flux Core?

    Hi all. I am trying to weld 16 gauge square tube to a 1/4" plate. And seem to have trouble getting a good looking bead. I am using .030 Hobart FC. And an I Mig 140E. I am having trouble finding the correct V and Wire feed. Comes out clumpy.

    Thanks
    Elantramax1

  2. #2

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    Correct voltage and wire speed? Have you made sure you have the correct polarity? And are using the correct Flux core drive rolls?

  3. #3
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    I have th F Drive Roller. Torch- Neg, Clamp-Pos

  4. #4

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    Well, check the groove and make sure it is the right size and make sure it is not riding on top of the roller and is fully in the groove. Check the drive tension, and check the spool tension and make sure it isn't hanging or is really tight. The roll shouldn't coast but it should stop dead either. Which drive roll combination of sizes did you get? I can't recall right off my head which sizes that are available for it, but if the groove is too large or small, it could be an issue. .8 is .030".

    One of the other possibilities is that you aren't making a good work clamp connection. The work clamp should be attached directly to the metal. Do not run it through the table for best results. Or, it could be the work clamp itself isn't making good connection.

  5. #5

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    Addditionally, check out the information here. It has all the specifications for your particular type wire. It gives amps and volts for running it in the pdf info on each product....Don't know what to suggest because we don't know the specific wire you have. http://www.hobartbrothers.com/produc...-shielded.html

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elantramax1 View Post
    Hi all. I am trying to weld 16 gauge square tube to a 1/4" plate. And seem to have trouble getting a good looking bead. I am using .030 Hobart FC. And an I Mig 140E. I am having trouble finding the correct V and Wire feed. Comes out clumpy.

    Thanks
    Elantramax1
    Pictures always help.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hobart E71T-11 .030

    This stuff is really Smokey. I grinded it down a bit. If I run the V at #4 sometimes it seems to blow through. Turned it down a bit to fill in.
    Last edited by Elantramax1; 09-07-2014 at 02:16 AM.

  8. #8

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    Is the wire feeding smoothly into the puddle or does it pop, skip, stub ? How close do you keep the tip to the puddle ? Are you grounding to bare metal ?
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elantramax1 View Post
    This stuff is really Smokey. I grinded it down a bit. If I run the V at #4 sometimes it seems to blow through. Turned it down a bit to fill in.
    For the kind of stuff you are building, I think you would be a lot happier with solid wire MIG and C25 instead of flux core.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  10. #10
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    I am grounding to bare metal. Cant really see the puddle. A little bit of popping.

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    Right now I don't have a cart. And the price of the Tank is out of my budget. I do know it would give me better looking welds.

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    Could part of my problem be the Mill Scale? That black coating that comes on the metal. The metal was labeled "Plain Steel".

    Thanks
    Elantramax1

  13. #13

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    Ok, so yes...mill scale will be an issue. But the smoking and popping is part of flux core. From the looks of it, a lot of it is technique. You should be holding about 1/2" worth of stickout. That's the distance between the puddle and the contact tip. Too long of a stick out will cause some of the issues you are seeing. It should help reduce the popping too. But if you are getting a lot of it, your wire speed is too high.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elantramax1 View Post
    Cant really see the puddle.
    You need to correct that. You might need to try a different shade depending on your vision. The usual starting point for what you are doing is #10, but you might do better with a #9 or #11. Also with flux core or stick welding, you will periodically need to clean or replace your cover glass, as it gets covered with smoke debris and spatter.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  15. #15

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    Start by leaning over in front of the direction of travel while keeping the torch in place and looking at the front of the puddle as you weld. That may seem strange but is a standard part of welding.

  16. #16
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    I have a Hobart Impact series. Set on #9. And I do clean the outer lenses afterwards.

    Stick out I was always told was about 3/8" Which is hard to do on an inside joint. I am going to check my Contact Tip for wear. Not sure how many feet before they need replacement.

    I saw a 20 CF tank at Tractor Supply. It may be big enough for what I do??

  17. #17
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    I should be leaning over the tip? I've been doing an off to the side from behind the torch.

  18. #18

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    The puddle isn't behind the torch, it's in front.

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    How does this look?

  20. #20

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    As far as the spatter and smoke go, pretty much normal. The bead looks like it needs more voltage and wire speed possibly.
    Flux core really isn't for thin metal. It's not delicate enough and will burn through before MIG. 20cfh is not enough for the average hobbbyists. That's less than an hour worth of use. For me I wouldn't consider anything less than 125.

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