Flux Core?

[Elantramax1]

After I wire brushed it. I do have the spots on the inside. 16 Gauge SQ. tubing scrap

[Elantramax1]

The Tanks are Expensive. That Hobart 20 Cfh costs $140 at TS. Empty. HF sells some for less. I am just leery about their Quality.

[Elantramax1]

I turned the V up to about 2 1/2. Started punching through the tubing. Left a blob on the inside. Seems V2 and Wire 2 gives me the better results. Not the best. Guess only the Solid and Shielding gas will do that.

[performance]

Don't go to Tractor Supply. Go to you local welding supplier. A 125 can be rented easily for about 4-6 bucks a month.

[performance]

16 gauge is about the limit for flux core. I think you are expecting a lot here, more than what you can get out of flux core. Flux core really is intended for much heavier weldments. But if you are getting little blobs inside, that is what it is supposed to do. Otherwise, you don't have penetration, you have something that is barely glued together.

But here you have these flat U shaped ripples which also indicate you moved too slowly. The ripples should be more convex (concave...I suppose depends upon how you view it), but whatever, the ripples should have more arch and a bit more separation. You should not end up with elongated V's, but simply crisp, U's with a good bit of arch across the bead face.

[Elantramax1]

On the V2 and W2 setting I get a bluish spot on the inside. If I turn the V up a bit to 2 1/2, Its looks like its too much. Leaving sunken spots on the outside. Maybe 2 1/4? When I find some more scrap, Trial and Error time.

I was trying to keep the scrap piece from moving too much. Its only about 2" long.

[performance]

Your wirespeed is probably low...but the question is, did you go and read what the suggested voltage and amp/wire speed settings were for your wire? Even if it does not have a digital meter, you can determine wire speed easily enough, and get a pretty good guess where voltage would be on the dial by dividing up the range of voltage (given on the specification data found on the unit) into 10 parts. YOu should be able to get pretty close. I am not sure but it sounds as if you don't know that the metal is supposed to melt through for proper penetration. It should be hanging in globs, but should have a neat little line or "bulge". The bluish spot only means the metal is getting hot. It doesn't mean you are getting penetration.

Welding on top of a piece of metal really is not the best way to learn. You need to fit up some joints and then tack them together before welding a solid seam. You are probably delaying your learning curve by trying to keep welding on thin metal like this.

[Rambozo]

One thing to add, practicing on real small pieces is also not a great idea. Besides having them move (clamp or tack them down to prevent that), they will heat up quickly and that will throw off your settings. Metal that is hot already requires lower settings to weld. For what you are doing go grab some 1/8" steel to use for practice. Once you have your technique down on that, you can move to thinner material and it will be a lot easier.

BTW, you don't really have to worry about gas cylinder quality. They are all periodically tested and re-certified. No gas supplier will fill it, if it doesn't pass hydrostatic testing. Renting is a good option until you have a better idea of your usage. Also things like craigslist and local classified ads can score you a deal.

[Elantramax1]

Performance, I did look at the link. The wire I am using isn't listed. I think they gave info on the .045, I am running .030.

I need to go find some scrap metal.

[Rambozo]

Performance, I did look at the link. The wire I am using isn't listed. I think they gave info on the .045, I am running .030.

I need to go find some scrap metal.

http://www.hobartbrothers.com/upload...bshield21B.pdf

[Elantramax1]

I see it now. 25A/14V/55IPM and 125A/16V/225IPM for .030.

[Elantramax1]

I am reading the Specs page on the I Mig 140E. It states the V at 15.3-21V.

[The_Beave]

What wire are you using, specifically? Stuff that has sat around unsealed will run like utter crap. If it is known good stuff, then we'll work on your technique.

As far as your welds on your test pieces, you need to move faster doing flat stuff, and you may have too much lead angle, piling up the weld which makes the base metal just drop away. Filling in the J joint between the rounded edge of the tube and your plate will require you to slow down a bit, but, you are going to want to turn it up and fly. When I am doing fluxcore, I always look at the leading edge of the puddle because the actual rear of the puddle is often obscured too much to do you any good looking for it, especially if you don't have a good enough helmet/lens to actually see what is happening. You want to see the puddle "bite" into the base metal consistently and evenly on both sides.

For the tube joints to the plate, you'll want to learn to "wash" the puddle up to the tube while keeping most of the heat on the plate. This helps a LOT in any welding of thick to thin stuff.

[Elantramax1]

Hello Beave. I am using Hobart E71T-11. It was sealed new roll. .030

Lead angle? Do you mean I should lean over more? Or more upright?

I understand about going slower on the J Gap. Its a wide joint.

That Test piece was short. Only couple of inches long. So my hand was "Floating" while using my other hand to steady the piece. I generally "Pull" the puddle. Torch to the Left. Move to the right.

My Hobart Impact helmet is set on #9. The Puddle is hard to see. Maybe #8 will be better?? For thin stuff. Obviously I would turn it up on Higher settings.

I only get a chance to work on this over the weekends. My job on the Trane Assembly Line wears me out every day. I get up at 3:30AM. 5-6 days per week.

Thanks for the Tips and Advice. Wish I knew someone locally that could work with me. To show me what I am doing wrong.

[The_Beave]

Trenton isn't that far away. I wouldn't mind stopping in on a weekend especially if I am on my way back from Baltimore/DC. (I am in the Baltimore area once a month.) It really does help to see someone do something. I'd highly recommend watching the videos by Jody from weldingtipsandtricks.com. They are about as good as you can get without someone actually there.

Yes, lead angle is the angle you have the torch/gun tilted to the plane of the weld. You don't need to be more than 15* off center, sometimes much less.

I prefer to weld with both hands on the gun. The first rule of welding is GET COMFORTABLE. The second rule of welding is if you can't get comfortable, GET SUPPORTED. You can always practice free hand stuff, and honestly it is good to do, but two hands are better than one, and three hands are even better than that. (Meaning secure your weldment.)

I don't think I've ever used a #8 shade for anything. Ever, including using baby wire (.023") on MIG or running at a low 10-20A on TIG.

As far as meeting up goes, I could swing by on Sunday, the 5th of October. That's the next time I'll be coming through South Jersey.

I wake up at 3:30 every day for work, too. I am currently a structural steel welder, and we run 1/16" dual shield wire, laying down 5/16" fillet welds in a single pass. It is super smokey fun, but it makes "reading" the puddle hard at times so I understand how frustrating it can be at times.

[Elantramax1]

Where I am working, The lighting could be a bit better. The lights are a few feet away. So I don't get the direct light. Just the side of a T12 Fl. tube. They sell lights that attach to the torch. Wonder if that would help

[The_Beave]

A good, old fashioned 500W halogen work lamp is your best friend for lighting, if you don't have an auto-darkening shield. It isn't going to help you much during welding, though. The light from nearly any arc welding is several times greater than that of most any lighting source for use in close proximity to humans, so it "drowns out" the ambient light once the arc starts.

[everlastsupport]

Metal flexible halogen desk lamps work well. Do not use plastic ones for the obvious reason (I'm melting....).

[JohnT]

The Tanks are Expensive. That Hobart 20 Cfh costs $140 at TS. Empty. HF sells some for less. I am just leery about their Quality.

I bought the small O/A torch set (with tanks) from Harbor Freight and as soon as I took my brand new tanks to LWS they just swapped them out for two full ones. I never saw those HF tanks again.

[Elantramax1]

Thanks. He told me that he cant fill without a Valid DOT stamp. And the smallest he stocks is a 60. 3 times the size of HFT.