255ext HF Start

[WhitsonMetal]

I just received a 325ext and am pretty disappointed in the HF start. Lanthanated and ceriated tungsten sharpened to a point, pre-flow and post flow settings all over the place, foot pedal and 2T, more gas, less gas, it's just flat out inconsistent. My last welder, a hobart 165 with HF start, never had the issue. Reading some of these posts has me thinking I'm just stuck with it.

[Rambozo]

I just received a 325ext and am pretty disappointed in the HF start. Lanthanated and ceriated tungsten sharpened to a point, pre-flow and post flow settings all over the place, foot pedal and 2T, more gas, less gas, it's just flat out inconsistent. My last welder, a hobart 165 with HF start, never had the issue. Reading some of these posts has me thinking I'm just stuck with it.

With the air cooled or water cooled torch, or both? AC, DC, or both?

That is the flagship machine, you should have great starts.

[WhitsonMetal]

With the air cooled or water cooled torch, or both? AC, DC, or both?

That is the flagship machine, you should have great starts.

That's what I hoped as well. I was trying to purchase a 255 with quad fan, dual voltage, and solid state HF, but due to shipping delays was offered the 325 and assured it was the same machine (hadn't researched it at all, last minute change up), minus the dual voltage. I put it straight to use on work I was behind on, DC only so far with the #9. Last night I tried it with the 2T torch switch and had maybe a 50-60% success rate for good starts, same as with the foot pedal the night prior. Once it's lit it works great but those starts drive me nuts.

[Rambozo]

That's what I hoped as well. I was trying to purchase a 255 with quad fan, dual voltage, and solid state HF, but due to shipping delays was offered the 325 and assured it was the same machine (hadn't researched it at all, last minute change up), minus the dual voltage. I put it straight to use on work I was behind on, DC only so far with the #9. Last night I tried it with the 2T torch switch and had maybe a 50-60% success rate for good starts, same as with the foot pedal the night prior. Once it's lit it works great but those starts drive me nuts.

DC with air cooled, rules out the few things I can think of. I would call support about it. I don't recall if that machine has any hidden menu start settings, that can be tweaked.

[performance]

Check your work clamp connections. Are you trying to ground through the table or something or do you have the ground directly on the metal you are welding as well as ground down to the shiny?

Several things are possible. One thing comes to mind is that you are trying to possibly start too far off. Some welders allow you to initiate a spark further away than others. Put it about a penny's thickness off the metal and see if you can get consistent starts. Also is it creating the HF everytime but no arc initiation or is it not creating the HF spark?

There's no hidden menu settings. The 325EXT does not have as low of start on AC IIRC and the panels is the same as the 2014 255EXT but has not been updated with the 2015 version. The 2015 version of the 255EXT has the select button just below the easy start up menu and has the spot weld timer added along with a purge button.

[everlastsupport]

labmaster02,

Check you PM and give Oleg a call at 877-755-9353 ext 201

[WhitsonMetal]

Check your work clamp connections. Are you trying to ground through the table or something or do you have the ground directly on the metal you are welding as well as ground down to the shiny?

Several things are possible. One thing comes to mind is that you are trying to possibly start too far off. Some welders allow you to initiate a spark further away than others. Put it about a penny's thickness off the metal and see if you can get consistent starts. Also is it creating the HF everytime but no arc initiation or is it not creating the HF spark?

There's no hidden menu settings. The 325EXT does not have as low of start on AC IIRC and the panels is the same as the 2014 255EXT but has not been updated with the 2015 version. The 2015 version of the 255EXT has the select button just below the easy start up menu and has the spot weld timer added along with a purge button.

I ground through the table as I have for years. As far as I know it's creating the HF every time, I hear the buzz every time that is. I'm pretty good at keeping it within an 1/8" from the work on starts no matter the position. Also, all metal is shiny and clean.

[performance]

I ground through the table as I have for years. As far as I know it's creating the HF every time, I hear the buzz every time that is. I'm pretty good at keeping it within an 1/8" from the work on starts no matter the position. Also, all metal is shiny and clean.

Try grounding directly to work. TIG especially suffers by indirect grounding.

Are you seeing the HF spark? I know you are hearing it, but seeing it as well is part of figuring out what is wrong.

[WhitsonMetal]

I see a tiny spark when touching the tungsten to the work (which so far is the only way to get consistent starts). If by seeing it you mean when I attempt to light it then no, when it doesn't work nothing happens. I'm not ready to accept that I need to change the way I ground my work. As I said before, the Hobart served me very well for 3 years, and it's a very basic machine. I can't imagine that this flagship machine, as it were, needs so much more help than the little hobart did.

[performance]

I see a tiny spark when touching the tungsten to the work (which so far is the only way to get consistent starts). If by seeing it you mean when I attempt to light it then no, when it doesn't work nothing happens. I'm not ready to accept that I need to change the way I ground my work. As I said before, the Hobart served me very well for 3 years, and it's a very basic machine. I can't imagine that this flagship machine, as it were, needs so much more help than the little hobart did.

I don't know what else to say... I am trying to be helpful based on more than 6 years of working with thousands of customers with Everlast welders and helping trouble shoot them...not to mention 30+ years of welding experience across a wide range of applications. (though admittedly not an exhaustive range as it would be impossible in 10 lifetimes to master everything in welding).

There's not a lot more we can do if you aren't willing to try what we suggest. We are trying to troubleshoot here and it seems you aren't exactly willing to cooperate through the process to find out if it's a machine issue or an environmental one. Anyone (with basic electrical knowledge) knows that the most direct route for the flow of electricity is the best route. We cannot guarantee something will work when welding habits are poor or lax where connections are oxidized and resistance is high. Any welding manual or textbook will tell you to ground as direct as possible for best starts. But many TIG welders with experience will often ground the tungsten first before trying to start the arc as this is not completely unheard of in the industry. Miller, Lincoln and others all have this as a characteristic in many of their models. I am not a EE, but I am sure Mike or someone else has a better explanation as to why. It's likely something that can be adjusted, but without your willingness to modify your technique, there's nothing we can do to try to resolve this except to return the unit for a refund.

I asked if, when you hear the HF when you attempt to start the arc, you are seeing a spark. It is possible to hear the HF inside the unit try to activate and not see a spark at the torch. That would indicate a poor connection or possibly (if your machine has them) dirty or out of adjustment points.

I don't think you answered my question directly. I don't want to assume by what you said that you are. You said "When you attempt to light it then no, when it doesn't work nothing happens". I would assume that by what you said earlier, but does not resolve whether the HF is attempting to fire everytime (hearing the noise inside the machine or at the torch) but random sparks or if it is firing intermittently with corresponding HF noise only when the arc is actually lighting, or if you are randomly hearing/seeing the HF spark consistently but without arc transfer or hearing/seeing the HF spark consistently with only random arc transfer.

[WhitsonMetal]

I asked if, when you hear the HF when you attempt to start the arc, you are seeing a spark. It is possible to hear the HF inside the unit try to activate and not see a spark at the torch. That would indicate a poor connection or possibly (if your machine has them) dirty or out of adjustment points.

This is what I'm experiencing, hearing the buzz, but having no joy. I hear the buzz every time, so its certainly doing its thing somewhere. I don't mean to sound stubborn or inflexible. Most of my mild discontent comes from the last minute switch to the 325 after weeks of talking myself into the 255, so now the HF issue seems like more of an issue than it actually is. Like i said, once its lit, everything seems great. Grounding to the work isn't a big deal, it's just something i've never had to worry about before ( I vainly keep my table top shiny ), neither is grounding out the tungsten, just a new step i've never made a part of my process. I want the machine to be what it is for everyone else and i'm still very excited about it. I'll try these steps first thing tomorrow.

[performance]

If you hear a buzz, try to determine if it sounds more mechanical like fast clicking or a higher pitched electrical sound. If it sounds like a higher pitched electrical sound, it may be that your unit has the HF points. You can verify it by looking up under the front panel and looking for a blue "light" or arc rather. If it has the light, then it is the point style. If not then it is the solid state type. If it has a point gap style HF you can readjust the gap and get a likely change in performance. But first, change the work clamp position. (Make sure the torch is in the NEGATIVE side first). Also make sure that any mill scale is ground off where the point of attachment is for the work clamp and the metal itself is ground clean.

[WhitsonMetal]

If you hear a buzz, try to determine if it sounds more mechanical like fast clicking or a higher pitched electrical sound. If it sounds like a higher pitched electrical sound, it may be that your unit has the HF points. You can verify it by looking up under the front panel and looking for a blue "light" or arc rather. If it has the light, then it is the point style. If not then it is the solid state type. If it has a point gap style HF you can readjust the gap and get a likely change in performance. But first, change the work clamp position. (Make sure the torch is in the NEGATIVE side first). Also make sure that any mill scale is ground off where the point of attachment is for the work clamp and the metal itself is ground clean.

It's an electrical buzz, and I can see the arc light through the front of the machine. I know I have points, that was one of my disappointments. They'll be fine though I'm sure. The machine did great today. I first set it up grounding directly to my work, and grounded the tungsten before every light, great starts every time, just what I'm used to. However, the clamp is like a piece of exercise equipment and since I have to constant flip my work around and reposition, it gets old. I grounded it back to the table and continued with grounding the tungsten, only one or two delayed starts. Its just something I'll have to get used to doing but it's certainly far better than before.

[rick9345]

Try a bit more post flow to keep tungsten cleaner . Pause over end of weld till post flow stops.Don't whip torch up and away, this contaminates tungsten tip, the little scratch,touch before starting knocks the contamination off resulting in a better start,a firm scratch/touch (1/8 long). Less than 1/8 gap for starting, Never more than diameter of tungsten is my general rule. AC really likes clean starts. Anodized alum just does not ground well to a table,use a jumper to a clean spot, flexible cable even 8 gauge adequate for light duty short welds, multi-strand.

Keep 2 or 3 $10 meters around,always handy.

If all else fails trade my 250EX for the 325 ,will pay shipping

[labmaster02]

If you hear a buzz, try to determine if it sounds more mechanical like fast clicking or a higher pitched electrical sound. If it sounds like a higher pitched electrical sound, it may be that your unit has the HF points. You can verify it by looking up under the front panel and looking for a blue "light" or arc rather. If it has the light, then it is the point style. If not then it is the solid state type. If it has a point gap style HF you can readjust the gap and get a likely change in performance. But first, change the work clamp position. (Make sure the torch is in the NEGATIVE side first). Also make sure that any mill scale is ground off where the point of attachment is for the work clamp and the metal itself is ground clean.

I have the 255ext with the same problem. I see a blue light through the front cover, but no spark. I don't see any contacts. Does this mean it has solid state HF?

[performance]

If you see light through the cover, you have points. Try the above mentioned remedies I gave. Make sure you are directly grounded ( and the torch is actually in the negative and the work clamp/ground is in the positive).

[labmaster02]

If you see light through the cover, you have points. Try the above mentioned remedies I gave. Make sure you are directly grounded ( and the torch is actually in the negative and the work clamp/ground is in the positive).

Here's a picture of the HF board. The small can in front of the blues caps is the blue light. There's aren't any contacts to adjust. Unless they are somewhere else in the welder

[performance]

No, that is the solid state board. Must be a little different than the one I have. The "can" doesn't emit light on my unit. It's metal.

[WhitsonMetal]

I see and hear the same part in my 325, lights (like an arc) when pedal is pressed.

[labmaster02]

It's strange. You wouldn't think it was a light by just looking at it, but it definitely lights up when the pedal is depressed. It kind of looks like a capacitor.