Torch Recommendation?

[Buggy Chief]

I too, like Christian on the forum am interested in the CK Pistol Grip Remote amperage control. I have researched to the end of the earth, including calling CK and they do not offer anything for the Everlast. According to them, inconsistency in manufacturing for different configurations and according to Arc-Zone,"I should have bought a more popular brand".

This is really frustrating as I have had really good luck and been pleased with my PP205. Can anyone recommend any of the following:

1. A remote amperage control for PP205?
2. Flex head Tig Torch with remote push on/off?
3. Any home engineered remedy for remote amperage control?

Thanks for any advice in advance. I am actually going to be in Chicago when Fabtech is going on and hope to catch Sjon from CK to get more insight.

[zoama]

In my learned opinion the arc-zone guy is a liar and a hack. I would never consider them as a source.
Pick any slide pot in the range your machine requires, wire it to a new connector, attach it to any torch with a round push on style handle using zip ties or whatever, if you want a pistol grip or tee handle, attach that to the torch handle behind the slide pot. Rotate the handle as needed to reach your work.
If you must have the CK brand then get one of those and change the slide pot to one with your required range for well under $10.

[christian]

Yeah,

Mr. TIG stated in an email to me that he would make another effort to come up with a CK SteadyGrip solution for Everlast users.

But he did also mentioned, and I'm paraphrasing or interpolating, that CK Wordwide may seem to lack a little patience with imported welders, or at least their changes in potentiometer values, but how the analog models may be easier for CK to develop for, somehow.

Of course, I kind of doubt that it's that difficult for a company like CK Worldwide to develop a hand amptrol for the latest Everlast units, especially the digital units, as the SSC foot control company had no apparent trouble coming up with a brilliant upgrade foot pedal for Everlast models, like my 210EXT, with its 47K pot, even though the actually pot on my SSC pedal is listed at 50K. And, it looks like Everlast is settling on a 47K pot for many of its models, which may now give CK more cause to be less picky, if I'm understanding correctly, toward serving Everlast customers, and themselves. But, now of the pots CK seems to use are in the 47K range, that I've noticed. And, it's apparently quite easy to modify a pot by adding a couple of resistors, in-line, on the high an low wires, to reduce a pot to a lower value. But I don't know if something similar can be done for the reverse condition.

Anyway, Mr. TIG has gotten my SteadyGrip back at TigDepot, and will be doing some more testing "as a challenge" for himself and as a service to the Everlast TIG welding community.

Again, I'm guessing Mr. TIG and the staff at TigDepot may have the solution already (without realizing it), as in the video he did demonstrating the SteadyGrip, he was using an Everlast 325EXT (unless I'm hallucinating), which has the same 47K pot, takes the same SSC pedal, and undoubtedly has the same pinout at the connector. I'll post a link to that video in this thread, just to see if hallucinations can be a shared experience. Ha, ha, ha...

Peace to you all,
C. Livingstone

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyjWOpkeaH4

[christian]

Gee,

I just watched the Mr. TIG video on the SteadyGrip again, and noticed that at the amps displayed, it also briefly reads 805 on his 325EXT when it tops out. And 805 is what my 210EXT was showing when I turned on my 210EXT with the SteadyGrip. But, I then just shut my machine down at that point.

So, I’m thinking that I was just being too cautious, and could have slid the action into the start position and been good-to-go.

Peace to you all,
C. Livingstone

[Buggy Chief]

I like your creativity here. I wish I had the ability to modify as it does seem quite easy. I am not confident in my abilities when it comes to electrical. Wish I could tho...

Yeah,

Mr. TIG stated in an email to me that he would make another effort to come up with a CK SteadyGrip solution for Everlast users.

But he did also mentioned, and I'm paraphrasing or interpolating, that CK Wordwide may seem to lack a little patience with imported welders, or at least their changes in potentiometer values, but how the analog models may be easier for CK to develop for, somehow.

Of course, I kind of doubt that it's that difficult for a company like CK Worldwide to develop a hand amptrol for the latest Everlast units, especially the digital units, as the SSC foot control company had no apparent trouble coming up with a brilliant upgrade foot pedal for Everlast models, like my 210EXT, with its 47K pot, even though the actually pot on my SSC pedal is listed at 50K. And, it looks like Everlast is settling on a 47K pot for many of its models, which may now give CK more cause to be less picky, if I'm understanding correctly, toward serving Everlast customers, and themselves. But, now of the pots CK seems to use are in the 47K range, that I've noticed. And, it's apparently quite easy to modify a pot by adding a couple of resistors, in-line, on the high an low wires, to reduce a pot to a lower value. But I don't know if something similar can be done for the reverse condition.

Anyway, Mr. TIG has gotten my SteadyGrip back at TigDepot, and will be doing some more testing "as a challenge" for himself and as a service to the Everlast TIG welding community.

Again, I'm guessing Mr. TIG and the staff at TigDepot may have the solution already (without realizing it), as in the video he did demonstrating the SteadyGrip, he was using an Everlast 325EXT (unless I'm hallucinating), which has the same 47K pot, takes the same SSC pedal, and undoubtedly has the same pinout at the connector. I'll post a link to that video in this thread, just to see if hallucinations can be a shared experience. Ha, ha, ha...

Peace to you all,
C. Livingstone

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyjWOpkeaH4

[Buggy Chief]

Keep us posted as to the updates with the ck pistol grip from Tigdepot. Thanks for posting!!!

Yeah,

Mr. TIG stated in an email to me that he would make another effort to come up with a CK SteadyGrip solution for Everlast users.

But he did also mentioned, and I'm paraphrasing or interpolating, that CK Wordwide may seem to lack a little patience with imported welders, or at least their changes in potentiometer values, but how the analog models may be easier for CK to develop for, somehow.

Of course, I kind of doubt that it's that difficult for a company like CK Worldwide to develop a hand amptrol for the latest Everlast units, especially the digital units, as the SSC foot control company had no apparent trouble coming up with a brilliant upgrade foot pedal for Everlast models, like my 210EXT, with its 47K pot, even though the actually pot on my SSC pedal is listed at 50K. And, it looks like Everlast is settling on a 47K pot for many of its models, which may now give CK more cause to be less picky, if I'm understanding correctly, toward serving Everlast customers, and themselves. But, now of the pots CK seems to use are in the 47K range, that I've noticed. And, it's apparently quite easy to modify a pot by adding a couple of resistors, in-line, on the high an low wires, to reduce a pot to a lower value. But I don't know if something similar can be done for the reverse condition.

Anyway, Mr. TIG has gotten my SteadyGrip back at TigDepot, and will be doing some more testing "as a challenge" for himself and as a service to the Everlast TIG welding community.

Again, I'm guessing Mr. TIG and the staff at TigDepot may have the solution already (without realizing it), as in the video he did demonstrating the SteadyGrip, he was using an Everlast 325EXT (unless I'm hallucinating), which has the same 47K pot, takes the same SSC pedal, and undoubtedly has the same pinout at the connector. I'll post a link to that video in this thread, just to see if hallucinations can be a shared experience. Ha, ha, ha...

Peace to you all,
C. Livingstone

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyjWOpkeaH4

[christian]

Yeah,

Even if the SteadyGrip works out fine for my 210EXT, I may, at some point, just take Zoama's advise and develop my own hand amptrol that is similar to a SteadyGrip, as the pots seem cheap and easily adaptable to a TIG torch. At least this one from Amazon looks like it would:

http://www.amazon.com/Potentiometer-...N04QZCFAFSG9W0

[Buggy Chief]

I like it. Let us know. I know I would be interested as I am not very savvy with electrical. At minimum at this point, I would settle for an on/off switch on my torch that would activate upslope/downslope, pulse, etc... that I have set. I tried to use the torch that came from everlast and it feels like a tree trunk in my hand after using my CK flex. I can't even find a on/off switch with the 5 pin connector.

Thanks for all of the research and input!!

Yeah,

Even if the SteadyGrip works out fine for my 210EXT, I may, at some point, just take Zoama's advise and develop my own hand amptrol that is similar to a SteadyGrip, as the pots seem cheap and easily adaptable to a TIG torch. At least this one from Amazon looks like it would:

http://www.amazon.com/Potentiometer-...N04QZCFAFSG9W0

[zoama]

Just in case you decide to try http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...0684#post20684 Even the longest journey begins with the first step.
The connector is available from Everlast.

[christian]

Well,

Even though your unit seems to have a different Torch connector (5-pin) than mine (7-pin), you may be able to use the two wire cable and 5-pin connector from the switch on the 26 torch that you don't like (I'm guessing that it's a blue, Euro style, with the built-in switch) on your CK Flex torch.

All you need to do, is to remove the cable from the torch end by nipping the two wires. Then purchase the typical, cheap torch switches that are often seen zip tied to a torch handle, like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Replacem...G+torch+switch

Then, just fish those same wire ends onto the switch leads and solder them. And you can't mismatch the wires, because it doesn't matter on these momentary switches.

So, there you go. I mean, those zip tied solutions aren't best, but they're quick and cheap.

[Buggy Chief]

I mis quoted...I have the 7 pin. How would I wore that? Thanks again for the input.

Well,

Even though your unit seems to have a different Torch connector (5-pin) than mine (7-pin), you may be able to use the two wire cable and 5-pin connector from the switch on the 26 torch that you don't like (I'm guessing that it's a blue, Euro style, with the built-in switch) on your CK Flex torch.

All you need to do, is to remove the cable from the torch end by nipping the two wires. Then purchase the typical, cheap torch switches that are often seen zip tied to a torch handle, like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Replacem...G+torch+switch

Then, just fish those same wire ends onto the switch leads and solder them. And you can't mismatch the wires, because it doesn't matter on these momentary switches.

So, there you go. I mean, those zip tied solutions aren't best, but they're quick and cheap.

[performance]

Being in the know about certain things, it is about minimum qty's more than anything else. They have to purchase several thousand units to purchase some pot that they don't have. A handful of customers who would actually want and seek out a new product like this would not sway the powers that be to go out and put that much money into sourcing new pots for a relative handful of customers.

[Rambozo]

I am actually going to be in Chicago when Fabtech is going on and hope to catch Sjon from CK to get more insight.

Alas, Mr. Delmore left CK Worldwide back in June. Not sure who is replacing him. He was a great resource and will be missed.

[Buggy Chief]

sp....how would I WIRE that?....

I mis quoted...I have the 7 pin. How would I wore that? Thanks again for the input.

[Buggy Chief]

So Mark, would it be possible to buy one of the CK Pistol grips and change the pot out to interface with the Everlast? Thanks for the insight.

Being in the know about certain things, it is about minimum qty's more than anything else. They have to purchase several thousand units to purchase some pot that they don't have. A handful of customers who would actually want and seek out a new product like this would not sway the powers that be to go out and put that much money into sourcing new pots for a relative handful of customers.

[christian]

Well,

To set-up a simple two-wire switch on a 7-pin connector is really easy. And, if you have a two-wire cable already connected to a 7-pin connector on a torch that you don't like, and which has an integrated switch on the torch body, as I suggested, you could use that cable and connector to simply solder the two wires to the new levered-switch. Just nip the two wires off the old torch switch and resolver them to the new levered switch, which can be zip tied onto your preferred torch.

But, if you don't want to scavenge from another torch assembly, any two or more wire cable can be soldered to a momentary contact switch in the same way, and down at the other end, at the 7-pin connector, you just solder the two wires at the barrels marked as #1 and #2. EASY! Yes, the connector has all 7 barrels or pin hole marked by #, but you may need a magnifying glass to see them.

So, am I understanding correctly? You're just looking to have a typical switch placed on a TIG torch?

I'll upload a photo, which, hopefully, you'll be able to see on the forum at this time. It shows these three parts: a two-wire cable, a levered contact switch, and a 7-pin Panasonic connector. Is that all you're wanting to get for the moment?

[Buggy Chief]

Thanks. Yes this is my solution in the interim of finding a remote amperage control. I want to have on/off...start/stop switch for my ck flex and not use the Everlast bulky torch. I just found in my Welding drawer, a 7 pin plug (must have come as an extra when I bought the Everlast) with pins in the 1 & 2 slot. Are these the correct pin configuration? What gauge wire do I need? Does it matter which wire goes into 1 or 2 from the switch? I guess I will order a switch and get it wired up. Found this from Zoama on the forum...http://www.sourcingmap.com/10-pcs-12...-p-168159.html

Thanks for the help and answering questions

Well,

To set-up a simple two-wire switch on a 7-pin connector is really easy. And, if you have a two-wire cable already connected to a 7-pin connector on a torch that you don't like, and which has an integrated switch on the torch body, as I suggested, you could use that cable and connector to simply solder the two wires to the new levered-switch. Just nip the two wires off the old torch switch and resolver them to the new levered switch, which can be zip tied onto your preferred torch.

But, if you don't want to scavenge from another torch assembly, any two or more wire cable can be soldered to a momentary contact switch in the same way, and down at the other end, at the 7-pin connector, you just solder the two wires at the barrels marked as #1 and #2. EASY! Yes, the connector has all 7 barrels or pin hole marked by #, but you may need a magnifying glass to see them.

So, am I understanding correctly? You're just looking to have a typical switch placed on a TIG torch?

I'll upload a photo, which, hopefully, you'll be able to see on the forum at this time. It shows these three parts: a two-wire cable, a levered contact switch, and a 7-pin Panasonic connector. Is that all you're wanting to get for the moment?

[christian]

Great,

The wire gauge is not critical, but 16 Ga, more or less, might be about right for the ease of soldering purposes. And, I'll tell you what, if you PM me a mailing address, so long as it's on the North American continent, I'll mail you a typical levered torch switch, and maybe even some two-wire cable if you like. No, it doesn't matter which wire goes to 1 or 2. EASY! And please let us hear how it goes.

Peace,
C. Livingstone

[Rambozo]

So Mark, would it be possible to buy one of the CK Pistol grips and change the pot out to interface with the Everlast? Thanks for the insight.

Yes, and as you may guess from that video you probably don't even have to do that with a modern digital welder. These typically operate as voltage dividers where there is a positive control voltage on one pin, a ground on the other, and the wiper varies the voltage between the two. This is fed to an ADC (analog to digital converter) where that voltage is measured and changed into a digital number that feeds the control circuitry. While analog circuits are tuned to only work with a specific resistance, digital circuits do not load the pot in the same way and will usually work with almost any value as long as it doesn't load down the control voltage supply too much. What this means is that it is very likely that even a 10k pot will work fine on a digital machine designed for a 47k. Of course you might risk your warranty by doing so, but that could be true for any modifications. But the difference in loading between those two pots, with a 5 volt control, is that the 47k will take about .1mA while the 10K will consume about .5mA. You would require a really good meter to be able to measure the difference. (.0004 Amps).
As to how easy it would be to change the pot in the CK unit, I have not seen the insides of one so I can't comment on that. No idea if they even use a linear slide type or a rotary with some kind of mechanical linkage. Also the switch could be a separate item or integrated into the pot. Be aware that linear slide pots with end switches are super rare and typically made custom for an application, while rotary's are quite a bit easier to locate. The easiest would be having a separate switch design, as then you only need to modify the pot. Also in this day and age, you might find the control glued closed instead of screws, so access might be tricky. Not having seen one in person, I have no idea. Maybe there is a teardown on YouTube somewhere.

[zoama]

I forgot about the micro switch when I described assembly but that's simple enough to work out.