Help welding thin Aluminum PowerTig 250EX

[joshtodd1984]

Trying to weld pieces of 1/16"x1/2"x1/2" angle. I am having problems getting a stable arc.

I have no issues with high frequency start as it well initiate an arc with ease. It seems as though, when running low amperage the arc will begin to pop and crack.
They best way i can describe it is sputtering. I hqve noticed it will begin to sputter and pop right as the weld pool forms or right before.

While it's sputtering, i can hear the high frequency buzzing coming from the machine. Similar to the sound made when first initiating a spark.

If anyone can help i would greatley appreciate it.

Setup details.

Powertig 250ex

Cleaned aluminum with stainless brush and acetone.
I've tried adjusting gas flow from as little as 8cfh to 20cfh
Tried a watercooled 20 torch and an air cooled 9 series. Same problem with both.
Tried both the foot pedal and the torch mounted switch. Same problems.
Lanthinated tungsten. Sizes .040 and 1/16". Same problem with both.
Using gas lenses with a size 4 and 5 cup. Problem still present with each.
20-35% balance. Makes no difference in regards to sputtering.
I tried running the frequency from 60Hz all the way up to 200Hz. No change in problem.
Pre flow was tried at .5 all the way up to 2 seconds. No change in problem.
Post flow has been tried at 2 seconds all the way to 5 seconds. Problem still exist.
When using foot pedal, up slope, down slope, start amps, end amps each turned all the way down.

Ive also tried using varying pulse settings with no change in the issue I'm experiencing.

For those of you who are more experienced than myself, is it me or the machine? Anything i can try to look at on the machine to verify no problems exist?


Thanks in advanced foe any help.

[Rambozo]

.062 does take practice. What arc length are you holding? What amperage are you running? It sounds like you might be losing the arc and the HF kicks in to restart it. Typically that is from too long an arc length or a draft blowing away your shielding gas. How are things with thicker material? 1/8" is a good thickness for learning.

[joshtodd1984]

.062 does take practice. What arc length are you holding? What amperage are you running? It sounds like you might be losing the arc and the HF kicks in to restart it. Typically that is from too long an arc length or a draft blowing away your shielding gas. How are things with thicker material? 1/8" is a good thickness for learning.

I've tried really close and kinda far on yhe arc length...and everything in between. I notice the sputtering much more once I'm below 50amps. The machine does fine on 1/8" plate. I can run perfect beads on higher amps. As soon as i turn the amperage below 50 it begins to sputter. Even on thicker material. No drafts in the garage as there are no windows, doors are closed and no heat/ac running.

Could it possibly be moisture in the gas cylinder? I've been running on the same 80cf cylinder for well over a year.

[Rambozo]

Could be bad gas, but not very likely if the arc is nice and clean over 50 amps. No soot on the welds on thicker plate?
One thing you can do to get you over 50 amps on that material is to move up to a 3/32" tungsten and adjust your AC balance more towards 50%. That will make it so you need more amps to get the same heat in the part. But it's more of a kludge and you shouldn't have to do that. But you can see if things smooth out with the increased amperage. It sounds like something is a little unstable at low amperages. Maybe call tech support and see what they say.

[joshtodd1984]

Could be bad gas, but not very likely if the arc is nice and clean over 50 amps. No soot on the welds on thicker plate?
One thing you can do to get you over 50 amps on that material is to move up to a 3/32" tungsten and adjust your AC balance more towards 50%. That will make it so you need more amps to get the same heat in the part. But it's more of a kludge and you shouldn't have to do that. But you can see if things smooth out with the increased amperage. It sounds like something is a little unstable at low amperages. Maybe call tech support and see what they say.

Yep. No soot. I'm fairly certain something is wrong with the machine. I can hear a buzzing sound coming from the machine whenever it sputters. It isn't the sound high frequency makes. When i first bought it, i was able to see sparking through the vents in the case of the welder. Anytime i saw the sparking in the machine i also heard the same sounding noise as I'm currently experiencing when it sputters.

I know it isn't the gas. I exchanged the cylinder for a new one this afternoon and I'm still having the same issue.

Guess I'll be calling tech support in a bit. Super frustrating.

[performance]

The buzzing would be the HF. It doesn't sound like other units. Try using the torch switch and see if it clears up. If it does, it's probably the foot pedal.

[joshtodd1984]

Just got off the phone with twch support and was told the PowerTig 250ex only goes down to 20amps in a/c and that something is wrong with my welder. He said when i flip the rocker to go from dc to ac and with the amperage knob turned all the way down, the amp display should switch from around 6 amps to 20amps because the 250Ex doesn't go lower than 20amps in A/C.

Is this true? The advertised output rating is 5 amps minimum in both ac and dc. I specifically purchased the Powertig250ex rather than other models becuase of the lower amperage ability in a/c.

Can someone from Everlast Tech Support or customer service please chime in here.

[Rugar]

Just got off the phone with twch support and was told the PowerTig 250ex only goes down to 20amps in a/c and that something is wrong with my welder. He said when i flip the rocker to go from dc to ac and with the amperage knob turned all the way down, the amp display should switch from around 6 amps to 20amps because the 250Ex doesn't go lower than 20amps in A/C.

Is this true? The advertised output rating is 5 amps minimum in both ac and dc. I specifically purchased the Powertig250ex rather than other models becuase of the lower amperage ability in a/c.

Can someone from Everlast Tech Support or customer service please chime in here.

My 5 year old 250EX goes down to 6 amps on the display in both AC and DC. I just went out and fired it up and turned it all the way down to 6 amps on DC, then flipped the switch to AC and the display still showed 6 amps. Mine will stack mini dimes on the bottom of a beer can.

[performance]

Just got off the phone with twch support and was told the PowerTig 250ex only goes down to 20amps in a/c and that something is wrong with my welder. He said when i flip the rocker to go from dc to ac and with the amperage knob turned all the way down, the amp display should switch from around 6 amps to 20amps because the 250Ex doesn't go lower than 20amps in A/C.

Is this true? The advertised output rating is 5 amps minimum in both ac and dc. I specifically purchased the Powertig250ex rather than other models becuase of the lower amperage ability in a/c.

Can someone from Everlast Tech Support or customer service please chime in here.

No. It is not true. It is 5 with an allowance of 2 to 3 amps either way.

[joshtodd1984]

No. It is not true. It is 5 with an allowance of 2 to 3 amps either way.

Not sure why i was told otherwise. I was also given a return authorization number to return the machine for a warranty claim based off the amperage not changing to a higher number when switched to a/c.

Can someone else from tech support assist me? This seems like a huge oversight. I was also told i was using too small tungsten. I've tried everything from .040" all the way up to 1/8" and still have the same problems. I've also tried varying the stickout amd arc length in hopes of figuring this out. Still no change.

Also, i've posted a couple videos to better show the problem i'm experiencing.

https://youtu.be/NqPRyyU4LYc

https://youtu.be/kuQYbUa5E4Q

[performance]

From the video, you are holding way too far off the metal. That is a huge arc gap. That is a primary issue. You are overheating your tungsten in the next one. And you are welding indirectly through it which makes low amp welding really dicey. You have to attach directly, and clean the metal better. Sounds like you have too low of frequency as well.

[performance]

Josh, been checking on your unit and trying to figure out the confusion. Don't worry, you WILL be taken care of. I need to fill in a couple of blanks here. When did you buy it? Where are you located? And can you post up a picture of your spec panel ( the graph on the side of the welder)?

If it is one of the new digital units, it should be an easy fix with the programming.
250EX's are spec'd to weld down to 5 amps...digital or not. (Plus/minus 2-3 amps).

[joshtodd1984]

I took the cover off the machine last night to check the hf gap and ensure all the electrical connections were firmly seated. The HF gap was set at .028". I did not attempt to adjust or change anything in regards to the gap. All the electrical connections looked fine.

Today i proceeded with testing the welder using a fixture to hold the torch at a set distance and to ensure the stickout length was correct.

Problem still exists.

Settings:
Amperage: 5amps
Frequency: 120Hz
Balance: 20-25%
Argon flow: 8cfh
3/32" 2% Lanthinated Tungsten
Gas lens with a #4 cup
CK 9 series rigid torch
Material Dimensions: 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/16"
Stickout Length: 3/16" (2x diameter of tungsten)
Tip of Tungsten to Workpiece Distance: 3/32" (2.4mm)

I'll try to post a link to the video later this evening. It's doing the same exact thing as in the original videos.

Machine Settings

Tungsten Sharpened

[joshtodd1984]

[joshtodd1984]

Thanks guys! I unplugged it from the wall yesterday and will take the cover off to inspect the HF gap and electrical connections.

Just to be sure, this wont void the warranty will it? I'd prefer if someone from Everlast address the question.

[zoama]

Thanks guys! I unplugged it from the wall yesterday and will take the cover off to inspect the HF gap and electrical connections.

Just to be sure, this wont void the warranty will it? I'd prefer if someone from Everlast address the question.

Removing the cover does not void the warranty. It's part of normal maintenance. I'm not an Everlast employee but I'm sure they will tell you the same.

[everlastsupport]

It will not void the warranty.

[joshtodd1984]

Frequency was set to around 120hz in the videos as you can see in the photo above.

[mts211si]

Just to be sure, this wont void the warranty will it? I'd prefer if someone from Everlast address the question.

You can wait for an official reply, but they'll say it doesn't void the warranty.