Going Green: 200DV

[dumbwelder]

So seeing that this sub-forum appears to be more active than 'Introduce Yourself' or 'Pre-purchase(etc)' I'll post here.

I just purchased a 200DV yesterday and await its arrival. I have used exclusively Blue and Red(and even a Yellow!) machines for a good while and have been hearing positive things about Everlast from some people who any welder would have to take seriously.

I have a fairly big project at hand requiring over 200' of welding of .125" aluminum tubing. This thing is going to be put through the ringer as soon as its kicked off the UPS truck.

I am also on a life long crusade against the 'big, dumb' tig torches, so I cannot proceed without a 20. I believe there are air-cooled torches good for 150amps, which I'm hoping will almost cover me on this project.

It'd be great if someone with .125" aluminum experience on an Everlast machine would share their knowledge on the finer points of 'at what point should you give in and buy a cooler'.

For anyone interested, here is some of my work...
https://www.instagram.com/weldymcwelderton/

[rick9345]

Hand will get toasty with the air cooled 20 ,need thick mig style gloves(clumsy)
I have both series 9 air/gas cooled for tacking and series 20 water cooled for long welds(length/duration). Everlast 250EX

[Rambozo]

Hand will get toasty with the air cooled 20 ,need thick mig style gloves(clumsy)
I have both series 9 air/gas cooled for tacking and series 20 water cooled for long welds(length/duration). Everlast 250EX

20 is always a water cooled.

[dumbwelder]

20 is always a water cooled.

I've actually used Lincoln Invertec 205's with air-cooled 20's.

EDIT: Maybe I am confused. Is the 9 the same size as a 20?

[Rambozo]

I've actually used Lincoln Invertec 205's with air-cooled 20's.

EDIT: Maybe I am confused. Is the 9 the same size as a 20?

Yes they share the same basic size. Just like the 18 is the water cooled version of the 17.

[dumbwelder]

Ahhhhhhh. I did not know that. Thank you!

Why does it need to be so confusing?! Whatever, they're the experts

[dumbwelder]

Thanks for the input. I was once forced to use a water cooled torch after the impeller in the cooler failed because the job had to get done(NOW!). It got so hot it melted the water line in it. These were more than adequate(highly recommended)...
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...ncolnElectric)

Will an air-cooled torch hold up better than a 'dry' water-cooled under similar conditions?

Do you use one torch to tack and one to weld in order to lower your energy bill? I never thought about that. I can't stand the bigger torches because, not only are they bulky, but they make for some awkward and uncomfortable hand positions.

[Rambozo]

Thanks for the input. I was once forced to use a water cooled torch after the impeller in the cooler failed because the job had to get done(NOW!). It got so hot it melted the water line in it. These were more than adequate(highly recommended)...
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...ncolnElectric)

Will an air-cooled torch hold up better than a 'dry' water-cooled under similar conditions?

Do you use one torch to tack and one to weld in order to lower your energy bill? I never thought about that. I can't stand the bigger torches because, not only are they bulky, but they make for some awkward and uncomfortable hand positions.

As you noticed, it's not so much the torch that fails as the power lead. They depend on the water to keep the small copper wire from melting down. Where as an air cooled torch or even a stick welding lead for say 250 amps would be somewhere around a #2 or #4 awg wire, If you look inside a water cooled 250 amp cable, the wire will be around a #10awg surrounded by a water jacket. While the torch head itself is cooled, the real cooling is needed in the power line. That is what makes the lines so small and flexible. So even with the bundle of three, it's a lot easier to deal with than something like a giant #2 awg copper wire hanging off your torch.

I'm sure he uses the 9 because of the light cable and torch. But that combo is only good to about 150 amps, so he switches to the 20 to get the power and duty cycle to do long welds in heavy material.

[dumbwelder]

I see. I'm glad there are people who know this stuff! I think where I lose interest is, for instance, when wiring something there is 4 colors, but in some instances this particular color is one thing, but in other cases it can be different. I'm not into burning the building down by accident. Or purposefully for that matter! I'll leave that to the professionals and the insurance companies to sort out.

I remember working at a place welding forged aluminum engine blocks with a 375 amp Lincoln 'Sledge Hammer' when a salesman came in and sold us on a torch, which was a 20, good for 400 amps. Or so the story went. I believe it was a Speedway. I think it was purple. I have no idea if it would've handled that kind of heat, but for the money they charged, it better!

So what do you think? Will I be good with a 9 for .125" aluminum and no helium?

[Rambozo]

All depends on how long the weld and how long a rest between welds, plus how thick your gloves are. You will be near the upper limit of what a 9 can do.

[performance]

I see. I'm glad there are people who know this stuff! I think where I lose interest is, for instance, when wiring something there is 4 colors, but in some instances this particular color is one thing, but in other cases it can be different. I'm not into burning the building down by accident. Or purposefully for that matter! I'll leave that to the professionals and the insurance companies to sort out.

I remember working at a place welding forged aluminum engine blocks with a 375 amp Lincoln 'Sledge Hammer' when a salesman came in and sold us on a torch, which was a 20, good for 400 amps. Or so the story went. I believe it was a Speedway. I think it was purple. I have no idea if it would've handled that kind of heat, but for the money they charged, it better!

So what do you think? Will I be good with a 9 for .125" aluminum and no helium?

A 20 is typically good for 225- 250 amps or so.

A 9 is 125 amps.

You'd be better off letting us sell you a 17 with a stubby consumable kit, or a CK trimline 26 with a stubby kit.

[Blaster]

If you look inside a water cooled 250 amp cable, the wire will be around a #10awg surrounded by a water jacket. While the torch head itself is cooled, the real cooling is needed in the power line. That is what makes the lines so small and flexible.

I would have thought so too,,,, BUT was Amazed to find it closer to 14ga!


Post #15 has pics of my 250A CK Water Cooled power line -> http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...2122#post52122