Oops!!!

[SLOWMANDOWN]

Guess I placed my questions in the wrong forum! moderator fill free to remove or move it.
Just received a new PU205 multi and am quite excited to start testing it.
I have not done any TIG welding before so I am not quite sure how to start.
Got the tank of Argon and some 3/32 #2 tungsten and some chemical sharpener. The first question I have is the kit has 3 cups and 3 collates with numbers on it which only 1 collate seems to fit the 3/32 tungsten. There are # on the collates how do I know which collate is for what size tungsten.
2nd_After reading through Tips and Tricks web sit I understand the cup sizing and along with the miller calculator I seem to believe that the #5 cup would be ok for 1/8 mild steel which is what I will pratice on. Is the cup size correct ?. Gas is set at 15cfh. Should it be more?
3rd_ The kit comes with a knob, what is that for?
4th_ On mild steel is it necessary to remove the mill scale?
5th_ I am still somewhat confused with the 2T/4T/Remote switch

[performance]

Welcome to the forum...
Have you downloaded your manual yet on the unit on our site?

1) The numbers are actually metric mm sizes. The collets that are included are generally 1/8, 3/32/ and 1/16. Each collet should fit snugly around the one it fits with very little or no play. When the back cap is tightened the tungsten should be secure and not move up or down.

2) Cup size is sort of something you have to experience for yourself. Corner work requires smaller cups and flat work can use larger ones. Calculator's are not really calculator's but just a rounded figure. I would generally use a 6 for most things. FYI, the gauges are in LPM not CFH. If you have your Everlast Gauge supplying argon, then you are putting out about 33 cfh if you are using the gradations on the regulator. Multiply by 2.1 to get CFH.

3). The "knob" isn't a knob. Its a short backcap for tight places. You use a shortened piece of tungsten.

4). Yes. Most definitely if you want a porous free weld. Remove all millscale and slag withing a 1" area of the weld before welding.

5) For the PU 205, you have no need to worry about 2T or 4T, because it does not have it. Simply select panel for pressing and holding the torch switch and then select pedal for using with the foot pedal.

[SLOWMANDOWN]

Thanks for the reply and info. The machine seems to be a great little machine. The manual explins the Local/Remote switch the same as 2T/4T.
If I understand you correctly the local is for the triger and the remote is for the pedal ?

[SLOWMANDOWN]

So as I read the miller on line calculator they suggest approximately 11 CFH then I should be at 5.2 LPM right.

[performance]

I think that is a little low. Most anything needs about 15 cfh. But if you can get a good weld, at that low of flow, then you'll end up saving a lot of gas.

The proper way is to adjust the flow meter until you start seeing bubbling, or other problems and then up the flow rate slightly until all traces disappear.