Tig 250p problem

[jakesporting]

Hello all at everlast I am having an issue with my Welder it is a tig 250p an older model that has worked flawless except for the foot pedal issues.

Now on to the problem the Welder stays on without the foot pedal or the thumb switch plugged in and I don't mean the power is on to the welder there is current to the tig torch without a signal telling it to.
Does anybody have insight as what the problem could be it also seems as there is no high frequency for the start but I can weld aluminum just have to scratch start it but once it starts it seems to be fine it just won't shut off the current ramps up and down just won't quit an arc and the gas continues to flow constantly.

I've attached a picture of the Welder so everyone can see the model style.

Thanks for your time, Jake

[Rambozo]

Hello all at everlast I am having an issue with my Welder it is a tig 250p an older model that has worked flawless except for the foot pedal issues.

Now on to the problem the Welder stays on without the foot pedal or the thumb switch plugged in and I don't mean the power is on to the welder there is current to the tig torch without a signal telling it to.
Does anybody have insight as what the problem could be it also seems as there is no high frequency for the start but I can weld aluminum just have to scratch start it but once it starts it seems to be fine it just won't shut off the current ramps up and down just won't quit an arc and the gas continues to flow constantly.

I've attached a picture of the Welder so everyone can see the model style.

Thanks for your time, Jake

Sounds like perhaps it might be at least partly in stick mode. (MMA) Try flipping that switch back and forth a bunch to help clean the contacts. And or give it a shot of contact cleaner, or remove and test it.

[jakesporting]

Checked the mma/tig switch and that made the gas solenoid turn on and off. Took the cover off cleaned and adjusted high frequency contacts and still no luck with high frequency starts as its stuck already on.

Investigating a little further I found where one of the thumb switch wire was melted through the casing and I'm sure this happened while I was welding this job could it be something got fried in the control when this happened ?

I don't see anything burnt on the boards but doesn't mean any of the mosfet and diodes which appears to be many aren't hurt. Just at a loss right now so if it can't be repaired easy I guess I'll be looking at upgrading my welder.

Thanks Jake

[christian]

How about a picture of that switch and wiring!

I mean, maybe it's just the three-pole contactor fried inside the switch.

...Investigating a little further I found where one of the thumb switch wire was melted through the casing and I'm sure this happened while I was welding this job could it be something got fried in the control when this happened ?

[jakesporting]

How about a picture of that switch and wiring!

I mean, maybe it's just the three-pole contactor fried inside the switch.

I don't think it's the switch as I can have nothing plugged into the machine and it is still producing current to the torch.

[Rambozo]

I don't think it's the switch as I can have nothing plugged into the machine and it is still producing current to the torch.

That is normal operation for the MMA mode. That's why I was thinking that switch might be faulty. Especially if is something like a DPDT where maybe only one pole has gone bad. But if you say the gas is on all the time as well, that points to the standard TIG starting system being fried. And it would go with your melting through a wire. It is probably repairable as several people on this forum have fixed those machines without a lot of trouble. But that would not be a fun as getting a nice new machine, just because.

[jakesporting]

Called in to tech and they think the main control panel is likely the culprit but no service parts are available for this old of a machine . Their option was to send in for repair but I don't think it is worth the time on a 8 year old welder and I'm in maryland. The welder did a great job for that time with no repairs except some modifications to the foot pedal.

I am in the market now for a new welder at least 250 amp ac capable just have to decide on options.

[zoama]

Called in to tech and they think the main control panel is likely the culprit but no service parts are available for this old of a machine . Their option was to send in for repair but I don't think it is worth the time on a 8 year old welder and I'm in maryland. The welder did a great job for that time with no repairs except some modifications to the foot pedal.

I am in the market now for a new welder at least 250 amp ac capable just have to decide on options.

Here ya go...
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...9699#post59699

[performance]

I have some repair info on that unit if I can find it. Email me at performance@everlastwelders.com and I'll look for it and send it to you. We can still get parts for this machine (many of them anyway) as it is a widely produced machine by many companies.

Here is a relatively reliable source for parts on this unit. It is likely to interchange.
http://www.riverweldstore.com/index....9qajiais1ak7n5

[everlastsupport]

I am in the market now for a new welder at least 250 amp ac capable just have to decide on options.

I ditto on the 250EX (price and performance on the dollar). Much better design now^99. I have an old TIG 250P unit here, but like you said, the time and distance is the killer. Easier to buy a new one with all the mods we have made. Look on Amazon (prime shipping, etc).

If you are in the area you are welcome to this one

[jakesporting]

I ditto on the 250EX (price and performance on the dollar). Much better design now^99. I have an old TIG 250P unit here, but like you said, the time and distance is the killer. Easier to buy a new one with all the mods we have made. Look on Amazon (prime shipping, etc).

If you are in the area you are welcome to this one

Thank you for the offer i still haven't totally decided on which welder but the 325ext is looking interesting to me just don't know if I would like the push button to change all of the parameters and I won't need all of the accessories that come with it.
Does anybody know if the welders can be ordered as a power source with a few accessories or is it just easier to take what comes with the package.
You mention amazon is the warranty still good if purchased through them with no hassle as I've seen some pretty discounted prices there over what is on the main website?

[jakesporting]

Well got the new welder I made the choice of a powertig 325 ext just received it today ordered on the 12th.
Came home and wired the plug on, made a new extension cord hooked up my torch and gas lines and started melting metal.
I primarily weld aluminum and man this machine is world's different than my old machine.
The only thing that seems out of place with this machine is the foot pedal the reaction is just to slow I like to pulse with my foot and it will hit the microswitch and shut off the arc before the gearing reacts on the potentiometer so I will be getting an ssc pedal to try out and see if it works better.
Here are couple pics one of the face with my torch leads hooked up and one of some beads I ran adjusting the machine to my liking (man there are a lot adjustments that actually make adjustments visible).

Thanks Oleg, Alex and the whole everlast team for the great service .

Jake

[jakesporting]

Worked on the pedal tonight and got it working better still not perfect but better.

The cross shaft was square in the pedal body but all of the inner workings that has the three screws to hold it
down was crooked in the body so I squared that up to the body and moved the gear on the potentiometer
out so the pedal gearing meshed on the whole gear instead of only half of it contacting
and that seemed to help this pedal. Way less ratcheting of the gears and a smoother feel.

Just thought i would post this so if anybody else has issues there is some adjusting that can be done to
improve the stock pedal for a better feel.

Jake

[Rambozo]

Worked on the pedal tonight and got it working better still not perfect but better.

The cross shaft was square in the pedal body but all of the inner workings that has the three screws to hold it
down was crooked in the body so I squared that up to the body and moved the gear on the potentiometer
out so the pedal gearing meshed on the whole gear instead of only half of it contacting
and that seemed to help this pedal. Way less ratcheting of the gears and a smoother feel.

Just thought i would post this so if anybody else has issues there is some adjusting that can be done to
improve the stock pedal for a better feel.

Jake

Did that correct the delay you mentioned before?

[jakesporting]

Did that correct the delay you mentioned before?

So far it has.

Jake