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  1. Default Tig 250p problem

    Hello all at everlast I am having an issue with my Welder it is a tig 250p an older model that has worked flawless except for the foot pedal issues.

    Now on to the problem the Welder stays on without the foot pedal or the thumb switch plugged in and I don't mean the power is on to the welder there is current to the tig torch without a signal telling it to.
    Does anybody have insight as what the problem could be it also seems as there is no high frequency for the start but I can weld aluminum just have to scratch start it but once it starts it seems to be fine it just won't shut off the current ramps up and down just won't quit an arc and the gas continues to flow constantly.

    I've attached a picture of the Welder so everyone can see the model style.

    Thanks for your time, Jake
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  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jakesporting View Post
    Hello all at everlast I am having an issue with my Welder it is a tig 250p an older model that has worked flawless except for the foot pedal issues.

    Now on to the problem the Welder stays on without the foot pedal or the thumb switch plugged in and I don't mean the power is on to the welder there is current to the tig torch without a signal telling it to.
    Does anybody have insight as what the problem could be it also seems as there is no high frequency for the start but I can weld aluminum just have to scratch start it but once it starts it seems to be fine it just won't shut off the current ramps up and down just won't quit an arc and the gas continues to flow constantly.

    I've attached a picture of the Welder so everyone can see the model style.

    Thanks for your time, Jake
    Sounds like perhaps it might be at least partly in stick mode. (MMA) Try flipping that switch back and forth a bunch to help clean the contacts. And or give it a shot of contact cleaner, or remove and test it.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  3. Default

    Checked the mma/tig switch and that made the gas solenoid turn on and off. Took the cover off cleaned and adjusted high frequency contacts and still no luck with high frequency starts as its stuck already on.

    Investigating a little further I found where one of the thumb switch wire was melted through the casing and I'm sure this happened while I was welding this job could it be something got fried in the control when this happened ?

    I don't see anything burnt on the boards but doesn't mean any of the mosfet and diodes which appears to be many aren't hurt. Just at a loss right now so if it can't be repaired easy I guess I'll be looking at upgrading my welder.

    Thanks Jake
    Last edited by jakesporting; 08-26-2016 at 01:29 AM.

  4. Default

    How about a picture of that switch and wiring!

    I mean, maybe it's just the three-pole contactor fried inside the switch.

    Quote Originally Posted by jakesporting View Post
    ...Investigating a little further I found where one of the thumb switch wire was melted through the casing and I'm sure this happened while I was welding this job could it be something got fried in the control when this happened ?
    Everlast 210 EXT (2015)

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  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by christian View Post
    How about a picture of that switch and wiring!

    I mean, maybe it's just the three-pole contactor fried inside the switch.
    I don't think it's the switch as I can have nothing plugged into the machine and it is still producing current to the torch.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakesporting View Post
    I don't think it's the switch as I can have nothing plugged into the machine and it is still producing current to the torch.
    That is normal operation for the MMA mode. That's why I was thinking that switch might be faulty. Especially if is something like a DPDT where maybe only one pole has gone bad. But if you say the gas is on all the time as well, that points to the standard TIG starting system being fried. And it would go with your melting through a wire. It is probably repairable as several people on this forum have fixed those machines without a lot of trouble. But that would not be a fun as getting a nice new machine, just because.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

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