New to forums, just got an i-Tig 201

[aland]

Hi all, I have finally been approved/validated to use these forums, took about a week. I'm not exactly sure what the problem was.

Anyway, I have a stick job I need to take care of, but have more interest in tig for the toolmaking I do, but I have some stick projects also...

I struggled trying to understand the differences between the i-Tig 200T and i-Tig 201.

In some ways the 200T seems more advanced in regard to cellulose and can weld 6011 much better than the 201, but I'm hoping that 7018 will work fine for the projects I have.

I'm going to keep the 201, as I think I prefer the potentiometers rather than hidden menus requiring membrane switches to select on the display. Just seemed when I was watching some of the online videos, that the 200T was a bit more complicated to setup, although it has memory, I honestly don't think I need memory. I rather like the ability to see the potentiometers at a quick glance.

The first thing after getting it was calling Mark at the recommendation of the office, I was curious about Max in-rush amps and/or getting a welder running on my 30 amp service.

When I spoke to Mark briefly, he had a slight conniption fit when I mentioned cutting the plug off and replacing it with an L6-30P, and after thinking about it, I think he was right and I decided to go the pig-tail route, and came up with this. I now have power to the welder in my home shop.



Cheers,
Alan

[m j mauer]

That looks like it should get the job done.
And welcome to the forum.

[christian]

Yeah,

I think it's the 6010 Stick rods that the 201, like most other inverters, have trouble running, not the 6011, which usually run great on AC or DC.

And the 200T doesn't seem to have a dedicated port for 6010 rods either.

There's no real need for 6010 rod, unless demanded in formal prints, as 6011 gives good all-position characteristics.

The Everlast products that have a dedicated 6010 port, like the 200ST, are the ones that are specifically made to run 6010 rods.



But, that's not to say that some amount of 6010 could not be run on other inverter units not designed for 6010, I think, in a pinch, but that they just won't run well.

[performance]

There aren't any hidden menus on the 200T. It's an intuitive, easy setup. People keep asking us when the 201 or similar "knobbed" units are being deleted. They aren't. THere are different customer types and your post proves it. The membrane switches are quite rugged, and we've had no problems with them since their introduction in 2013. If anything, they are more reliable overall than the potentiometers. But, having knobs to make an easy setup is a valid viewpoint. Indeed, the 200T offers better stick welding features and better torch switch control. But if you don't need that, then the simplicity of the 201 is very attractive.

As far as rewiring it goes and cutting the plug, as I said, we cannot recommend that or condone it. It's a modification of the welder that affects warranty. Preferably, you rewire your circuits to accept the National standard for welders, which we use. The solution you have is a will work solution. Make sure you have the black to black, and if you have a red wire in your wall, that you have the red connected to the white. Green to Green of course.

Nice clean pig tail btw.

[aland]

And the 200T doesn't seem to have a dedicated port for 6010 rods either.

There's no real need for 6010 rod, unless demanded in formal prints, as 6011 gives good all-position characteristics.

Christian,

That's kind of interesting as the 200T does handle cellulose better from the reviews. That was something kind of important to me, but for better or worse I'm going to keep the 201. I'm fine if the 201 can weld 6011, since I will use mostly 7018. I was merely looking for a way to have a cellulose root pass with 7018 over the top. Maybe the 201 will do that for me, but reviews were not glowing on the one review I saw of the 201. Not a lot of reviews on the 201, even though it's been out for about 2 years.

The Everlast products that have a dedicated 6010 port, like the 200ST, are the ones that are specifically made to run 6010 rods.

That is a good point. Maybe I was expecting too much of the 201, but it says it will run 6011. I'm fine with that if it will do it. The irony is that I originally bought the 200st as I was primarily wanting a stick welder, and the fact it had some tig ability was attractive. After pondering, the tig is much better for me and why I exchanged it for the i-Tig 201.

There aren't any hidden menus on the 200T. It's an intuitive, easy setup.

Mark,

Maybe hidden menus is a misnomer, but it seems to require going through a series of setting on the panel in some cases, where the 201 allows the use of the potentiometers to accomplish similar tasks. Of course at the expense of some of the digital features.

People keep asking us when the 201 or similar "knobbed" units are being deleted. They aren't. THere are different customer types and your post proves it.

I was just trying to understand how you were targeting those units. I'm not a professional, but you kind of state the 201 was intended for professionals on your website. I just want something simple to use.

Anyway, I like the 201, the size is perfect for my needs and the functionality will allow me to do most projects I have lined up.

As far as rewiring it goes and cutting the plug, as I said, we cannot recommend that or condone it. It's a modification of the welder that affects warranty. Preferably, you rewire your circuits to accept the National standard for welders, which we use. The solution you have is a will work solution. Make sure you have the black to black, and if you have a red wire in your wall, that you have the red connected to the white. Green to Green of course.

Nice clean pig tail btw.

And as you can see I did take your advice and make the pig tail. I crimped ends on the wires going into the NEMA 6-50R, and the twistloc is solid.

BTW, I have ground run, not neutral to my 240v outlet. I have 2 hots and a ground. And yes, ground is connected to GREEN.

Thanks for steering me that way Mark, I wasn't trying to be difficult but only get my welder working.

Alan

[performance]

I don't know if it is any more for professionals, but a lot of pros do use it. The 200T is equally pro in its design and setup.

[aland]

I don't know if it is any more for professionals, but a lot of pros do use it. The 200T is equally pro in its design and setup.

Mark,

The one thing is that most all the new welders have the digital interface on them, so that tells me it must be as good or better.

Curious though, several of the units seem to be similar in how they are colored white, but it's not clear to me if those are newer systems or if those represent something else? I'm probably reading too much into your website, but it's kind of confusing...

As an example, under Tig machines, the i-Tig 201, PA300st and PT350EXT. Those are white machines in the machine images. Is that just because they are newer? Doesn't seem any rhyme or reason otherwise as the 201 is analog, the 350EXT is digital, and the PA300st.

Anyway, just curious is all...but they must be color coded for a reason...

Alan

[performance]

No, it's just that the web management company hasn't put a new thumbnail up.

[aland]

No, it's just that the web management company hasn't put a new thumbnail up.

I should have figured as such...