i-Tig 201 compared to i-Tig 200T

[aland]

These two units are difficult to understand what exactly the differences are.

AFAICT, the main differences are:

Control circuit runs at 70v vs 80v for 201 vs 200T.

Cellulose rod appears to work better on the 200T, per reviews. Not a lot of reviews and the 201 says it will handle 6011, one of the online reviews I saw for the 201 specific said it's not one of it's strong points (chucke2009). This is probably the biggest difference for me in regard to both welders.

201 will only go down to 5 amps, where the 200T will go down to 3 amps. I don't think this will be an issue, but a difference.

201 doesn't come with a pedal, and the 200T does. On the surface this would appear to be the cost difference in the machines, but I would plan on replacing the pedal anyway, so not sure that is really an advantage or not.

Price difference of about $100 between both welders at the current sale prices.

200T has memory settings to hold 8 or 9 configurations...no big deal there. I just want something simple to use and when I was watching online it seemed to me that the 200T is slightly more complicated to configure as there is a bit more, much of which I probably don't need.

I decided on the 201, although I did plan to use cellulose, I can still weld 7018 just fine and if I need to use only 7018 I can do that.

For me I kind of like having the potentiometers, as a quick glance will tell you what the system is set to...maybe that is so of the 200T, but some of the menus seem hidden.

Everlast must have had a target audience for each of the systems, since the 200T was introduced before the 201.

I was hoping Mark might be able to layout why Everlast added the changes they did and/or who the target audience is for each of these units. Not sure if that will help me understand them better, and am planning to keep the 201.

Cheers,
Alan

[Rambozo]

The same thing happened when they came out with the 255EXT. They kept the 250EX in the lineup as there are a lot of people that preferred to have the knobs. It is nice to be able to see all your settings in one glance. For some it's a big deal. I don't really care, one way or the other, except that I know pots get dirty over time and need to be cleaned to have smooth control. Of course membrane and tac switches have a lifespan, too. Before CNCs had cycle counters and spindle hourmeters, you could tell how much one had been used by the condition of the cycle start switch. If there was a hole worn in the touch panel and all the lettering was gone, you know the machine had a hard life.

It was mentioned some time ago that Everlast has been moving to all digital circuits, but has left the analog user interface on some models for those that want their knobs. But inside it's a digital welder. The best of both, the worst of both? I guess that's up to you.

You should have no problem running 6011, just try a few brands until you find what works best for you. Inverters in general require slightly different techniques with fast freeze rods. No big deal once you get the hang of it.

[aland]

It was mentioned some time ago that Everlast has been moving to all digital circuits, but has left the analog user interface on some models for those that want their knobs. But inside it's a digital welder. The best of both, the worst of both? I guess that's up to you.

Yes, it's kind of like a hybrid in the sense that the control circuit is digital, but it has analog controls that mange it. Where on the 200T it is completely digital. However, the 201 is an analog machine. I think the potentiometers simplify using it, but it seems I'm sacrificing better functionality possibly to have them. There's a lot of things to poke around through on the digital control including memory...and it just seems simpler to me. And, with a pedal there's less to set. OTOH, I don't think I'll out grow the 201, and I rather like that fact that it didn't come with a pedal as I would buy a new one anyway.

I wish they would offer some units without a torch, electrode holder, grounding...would allow people to buy the type they prefer/like. If they offered all the accessories at an attractive price over the base price, it would give those who don't mind those to buy them, or if others wanted to buy other after market brands, they could buy the base model and do that.

You should have no problem running 6011, just try a few brands until you find what works best for you. Inverters in general require slightly different techniques with fast freeze rods. No big deal once you get the hang of it.

I have a couple pounds of Lincoln 6011 to try, and I just got a 10 lb. tube of 1/8" 7018.

I will start out by running some padding beads on some pieces of plate.

I will try to test it out tomorrow.

Alan

[Rambozo]

I wish they would offer some units without a torch, electrode holder, grounding...would allow people to buy the type they prefer/like. If they offered all the accessories at an attractive price over the base price, it would give those who don't mind those to buy them, or if others wanted to buy other after market brands, they could buy the base model and do that.

I would like that as well, and have asked about it, but the way they import and ship, it's just not practical to have two SKUs for each machine or open and repack things. Too many opportunities for mistakes, too.
Having said that, if you call and discuss just what accessories you want, it is often possible to do some upgrades before they ship your machine. Things like a longer cable set, a CK torch, or SSC pedal. They do a pretty good job with customer service, when you give them a chance.

[aland]

I would like that as well, and have asked about it, but the way they import and ship, it's just not practical to have two SKUs for each machine or open and repack things. Too many opportunities for mistakes, too.
Having said that, if you call and discuss just what accessories you want, it is often possible to do some upgrades before they ship your machine. Things like a longer cable set, a CK torch, or SSC pedal. They do a pretty good job with customer service, when you give them a chance.

I didn't know that, I would have upgraded to a ck flex head if possible. I didn't see any on their site. I was looking to buy some usa made cable to extend the leads...and then looking at replacing the ground clamp with a tweco, cause it will need to be 25 feet also. I'll be left with little or no Everlast accessories in the end.

That's ok, the unit is what I needed most.

Alan

[aland]

I would like that as well, and have asked about it, but the way they import and ship, it's just not practical to have two SKUs for each machine or open and repack things. Too many opportunities for mistakes, too.

I get that part, but that still doesn't help that I'm replacing most everything they provided me. I really don't think I will be left with any of the provided equipment in the end, other than the welder itself. I will probably keep them for backups, and like most things I've done that with in the past...get replaced with other better backups...LOL

Alan

[performance]

Good luck on finding USA made cable. CK is not. Take a look at the NOVA torches, or rather inquire about them. They are in our testing equal to CK. Nothing wrong with the work clamp on that unit. You can get a heavier clamp of course, but try it out first.

[aland]

Good luck on finding USA made cable. CK is not. Take a look at the NOVA torches, or rather inquire about them. They are in our testing equal to CK. Nothing wrong with the work clamp on that unit. You can get a heavier clamp of course, but try it out first.

There's a place on ebay that sells usa made cable for $1.30/ft for AWG 2. That is what is needed for 200amps, AFAICT. I could use AWG 1 if I wanted to go one size up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WELDING-CAB...r/381826680645

EDIT: these guys are in Fremont, local to SF Bay for me, but shipping looks cheap.

Alan