Two (2) Free 1/8” CK Wedge Collets For Stubby Lens w/17 Torch

[christian]

Yeah,

I’m willing to send two of these 1/8”, “4-series” wedge collets to the first Everlast forum member who posts to this thread or PMs me with a mailing address, on the North American continent of the so-called 48-state area, that also actually uses a stubby gas lens on a #17 TIG torch.

Of course, the wedge collets are far better than the slotted ones, which will twist or “cork-screw” very quickly.

These “4-series” will not work with a 2-series/#9 torch, either, I’m pretty sure, even though a 2-series cup will work with the stubby gas lens, on a 3-series #17 torch, that than will also will take a 4-series wedge collet. Ha, ha, ha… But it’s true, nonetheless.

Anyway, CK Worldwide packages these wedge collets in packs of 5, at a surprisingly good price per copy (about $20, I think it was, via Weldfabulous.) But I’ll undoubtedly never use 5 of them, as one or two would last me a few years, and I mostly only use 3/32” tungstens anyway. But I did recently have use for 1/8” tungsten on a higher amperage, so I got the pack of 5, which is really too many for me.

So, I’m keeping 3, and giving away 2.



You can see from this photo, how quickly 210 amps can corkscrew a typical collet. The wedge collets don’t do that.

[christian]

Yeah,

There's undoubtedly some #26 TIG torch users that have the same stubby gas lens kits that the #17 torches takes.

So, a 26 TIG torch with a stubby gas lens or kit will also take these 4-series wedge collets.

[aland]

I would take them if still available.

Alan

[christian]

OK,

You got 'em, Alan!

I would take them if still available.

Alan

[aland]

Much appreciated...as I cobble my welding environment together...

Alan

[christian]

Yeah,

Wedge collets are a nice innovation to a TIG torch. They're all I use now.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...s=wedge+collet

And they're not really expensive, even from CK Worldwide, which usually prices their stuff quite high and was apparently the only source for them, initially. But now there are imported wedge collets too, wich are an even better value.

Here's a recent Kevin Caron video on how standard collets can swell and corkscrew, causing gas flow problems.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NUJEtw7AAI

[Rambozo]

A lot depends on how you treat them. Over temp, over current or over torque are the death of standard collets. Otherwise they do fine. I have collets that have been in service over 20 years and are still going strong.

[aland]

Christian,

I certainly do appreciate it, and my stubby kit is in the mail...so these will come in handy.

I haven't ordered a new torch yet, but will be doing that soon.

Gearing up for welding is a fair undertaking...but I am getting what I need cobbled together...

Cheers,
Alan

[christian]

Yeah,

A 26 torch with that Euro handle and integrated 2T switch would be pretty clunky for starters.

Yeah, I'm undoubtedly hard on collets, through over-tightening when they're warm, so the wedge ones solve that for me.

So, yeah, a Nova pedal, stubby gas lens, and a more nimble torch will help a bit.

And working with a DC TIG arc is quite relaxing, to me, as it's quiet, and there's no smoke or spatter.

No sweat on the collets, as I'm kind of paying it forward for a gas fitting that a welding forum member sent to me at no cost.

[aland]

A 26 torch with that Euro handle and integrated 2T switch would be pretty clunky for starters.

I'm going to start with it though.

Yeah, I'm undoubtedly hard on collets, through over-tightening when they're warm, so the wedge ones solve that for me.

I'll be honest I don't have very much experience yet...give me a few days...

So, yeah, a Nova pedal, stubby gas lens, and a more nimble torch will help a bit.

Pretty much what I'm doing. I was going to buy my torch online, but thinking I will support my local welding shop, most of the others are gone and replaced with Airgas or Praxair.

And working with a DC TIG arc is quite relaxing, to me, as it's quiet, and there's no smoke or spatter.

This is a huge factor for me. I can tig inside the garage at night with the door closed. I can't do that for any length of time with stick or mig. DC tig is amazingly quiet. Argon is not cheap, but it's much healthier and safer than acetylene, as an example...tig just seems like the natural choice for many people. Count me in...

That said, tig is not without faults, and non-clean environments is one of them. In that regard I have a fair amount of stick projects also.

Alan

[christian]

Yeah,

The 26 torch will take the same consumables and cups as a 17 torch, but you typically can't put a 17 torch on a 26 torch hose/power cable.

I mean, I'm guessing that you'll probably want to go to a 17 torch, since they're a little smaller and the hose/power cable is usually lighter and more flexible, while still able to do higher amps for short periods.

But a cheap, flex head 26 torch can be had for $10.49, via Amazon, and would fit your existing cable. With the stubby lens and no 2T switch on it a 26 can be good too, and will stay a little cooler in the hand. And these 26 Flex heads are sometimes hard to find.

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Torch...rch+WP+26+flex

Otherwise, a 17 or a 9 TIG torch would take a whole new assembly that includes a torch, hose/cable, and Dinse connector.

And the Dinse connectors that come with the OEM Everlast torch assembly is an integrated one, which can't really be used with any other hose/cable.

[aland]

I mean, I'm guessing that you'll probably want to go to a 17 torch, since they're a little smaller and the hose/power cable is usually lighter and more flexible, while still able to do higher amps for short periods.

Yes, I was wanting to upgrade to a CK. I read that Everlast would upgrade the torch when you ordered if you asked. I sent an email to Everlast to see if I could upgrade my existing torch to a CK, or if not I would upgrade to a rotoflex. I'll see what they say first. I haven't used mine yet.

But a cheap, flex head 26 torch can be had for $10.49, via Amazon, and would fit your existing cable. With the stubby lens and no 2T switch on it a 26 can be good too, and will stay a little cooler in the hand. And these 26 Flex heads are sometimes hard to find.

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Torch...rch+WP+26+flex

Now that looks reasonable enough.

Otherwise, a 17 or a 9 TIG torch would take a whole new assembly that includes a torch, hose/cable, and Dinse connector.

And the Dinse connectors that come with the OEM Everlast torch assembly is an integrated one, which can't really be used with any other hose/cable.

I was hoping for a torch/hose replacement. If so, I wouldn't be able to use it until my pedal gets here. Or use it with a simple switch.

First I'll see if they'll upgrade me and if so will do that. Either way the stubby kit will fit either 17 or 26.

I don't understand why the hose needs to be with the torch.

I saw that ck has 1 piece and 2 piece hoses. I'm not clear on what the differences are. Do you know?

Alan

[christian]

Yeah,

The 1 piece are more practical, since the hose contains the power cable insider it, which makes for a more flexible assembly than a 2 stranded assembly.

The torch can be changed on a hose, but it's the Everlast OEM Dinse connector that is fixed to the hose, which isn't too bad, unless you burn a hole in the hose, as that will cause most to have to replace the hose and a (usually) Dinse connector. The CK worldwide superflex hose and Dinse connectors are not fixed togather so a hose can be easily changed out with no new clamshell style Dinse connector being needed. I suppose the new Everlast torch/hose premium extra-flexible assemblies have the Dinse connector fixed as well, and that undoubtedly makes them approximate the two separate items of a CK Worldwide super flex cable and a CK clamshell Dinse connector at a better price than the CK stuff separately.

Yeah, Everlast sells their Roto torch as a whole torch/hose assembly, just like CK does with its similar Roto torch assembly. So, It's almost imposible to get a Roto torch as a single item at a fair price, unless you buy it in parts, totaling about $100, for the CK Worldwide RotoLoc torch.

Also, you've probably noticed that the ITIG 201 and the 200T both have 160 amp output on Stick, which probably equates to single-pass on 3/16" mild steel at 160 amps, using 1/8" electrodes. I mean, I'd think that would be plenty of amps for most stuff.

...

First I'll see if they'll upgrade me and if so will do that. Either way the stubby kit will fit either 17 or 26.

I don't understand why the hose needs to be with the torch.

I saw that ck has 1 piece and 2 piece hoses. I'm not clear on what the differences are. Do you know?

Alan

[aland]

Unfortunately Everlast is out of ck torches. I just ordered that inexpensive flex head replacement you linked to above at Amazon.

I'll order a ck flex 17, but think I'll just use this 26 klunker in the meantime.

[christian]

Yeah,

And having a backup torch, like an OEM 26, is always good for the sake of redundance, since a hose, especially without a cover, can suddenly get a cut or a burn hole.

[aland]

The 26 torch will take the same consumables and cups as a 17 torch, but you typically can't put a 17 torch on a 26 torch hose/power cable.

I mean, I'm guessing that you'll probably want to go to a 17 torch, since they're a little smaller and the hose/power cable is usually lighter and more flexible, while still able to do higher amps for short periods.

Christian,

As I have said, I do plan to get a CK 17 with a flex hose, and yes, I am in complete agreement with you on the size of the hose and connectors in general, the hose for a 200 amp torch is just larger in diameter and as such, not as flexible like the 150 amp hose.

But I am not in a great financial position right now, so going to cheap out on the torch until I can get what I want.

But a cheap, flex head 26 torch can be had for $10.49, via Amazon, and would fit your existing cable. With the stubby lens and no 2T switch on it a 26 can be good too, and will stay a little cooler in the hand. And these 26 Flex heads are sometimes hard to find.

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Torch...rch+WP+26+flex

Otherwise, a 17 or a 9 TIG torch would take a whole new assembly that includes a torch, hose/cable, and Dinse connector.

And the Dinse connectors that come with the OEM Everlast torch assembly is an integrated one, which can't really be used with any other hose/cable.

So, here's what I'm going to do for the time being. Mainly because I need a new helmet more than a new torch, and that goes for all welding including stick.

But I ordered those parts on Amazon that you linked to, and I have a Nova foot pedal coming from Everlast, it shipped this morning. Looking inside the cable cover, the hose is actually fairly flexible, but it seems the cable cover is used more to keep the hose and switch control contained...after all they use wire ties to hold the control on the torch...I'll probably use pipe clamps when I need to use the control. I plan on using the pedal most of the time.

I think I can just get rid of the entire cable cover and cut the switch off, add the flex head I'm getting off Amazon and use that with the stubby kit I ordered last week.

This will not be ideal, but will get me a better working torch until I can get the CK 17 torch/hose combo. I was pondering if the hose is ok without the cover and it seems to be resistant as most flex cables are. Anyone have any concerns if someone was to use the hose without the switch or cover, just the naked flex cable?

And I do see now that CK has two lines of torches, one is the standard series and one is the master series. The part numbers are close, so if anyone is looking to buy one make a note. I really am not sure what the difference is, but Jody Collier and Wyatt Swaim both recommend the H seres (master series).

CK1525HSF FX master series

CK1525RSF FX standard series

There a minimal difference in price, about $15.

Alan

[christian]

Yeah,

If you're in no hurry to get a more "ultra-flex" and more costly hose/cable/Dinse assembly, you may find that the OEM 26 with the Euro torch replaced with a bare 26 Flex torch and a stubby lens is both nimble enough to use and stout enough to stay a bit cooler in the hand. I mean, just replace the torch itself, set aside the 2T switch, and ditch the cover too, if you like. Then the sole OEM 26 hose will probably become more flexible with use.

And, you can just snip the two wires at the Euro 2T switch and solder them to an ad hoc 2T switch that can be zip-tied to any typical torch, for when or if you don't use a pedal for some reason. A switch is $3.99, free shipping, no tax, via an Amazon seller (not Amazon itself).

https://www.amazon.com/Breynet-1PC-T...h+switch&psc=1

[christian]

Here's a guy who upgraded his Everlast OEM 26 Euro torch to a CK Worldwide 26 Flex torch with an UltraFlex cable, and a Clamshell Dinse connector, which is undoubtedly a little more costly than the new Everlast line of super flex hoses and comparable RotoHead torch stuff which approximates the CK stuff, especially because the Everlast assemblies integrate the Dinse/gas connector into the hose, so it's not a separate item like the CK clamshell connector is. But, again, the separated Dinse connector could be a benefit to some.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7fSrTyAwWs&t=3s

Anyway, I think what you'll probably be doing with the stubby lens and a generic 26 Flex torch will be nearly as good and certainly cheaper.

But the video helps in showing the differences in the assemblies.

I shortened the gas QuickConnect line out to the torch on my CK stuff and did away with the CK compression fitting to the 9mm QuickConnect adapter, with a more elegant solution via a barbed/9mm QuickConnect fitting and a small Oetiker clamp. Everlast sells those too, but they're not needed with an Everlast OEM torch assembly, as theirs don't use a compression fitting-to-9mm adapter.

I'd post a photo showing both, but the forum seems to be having trouble hosting photos at the moment, so I'l just post a link to the Everlast TIG part itself.

https://www.everlastgenerators.com/p...ln®-style-1pk

[aland]

Here's a guy who upgraded his Everlast OEM 26 Euro torch to a CK Worldwide 26 Flex torch with an UltraFlex cable, and a Clamshell Dinse connector, which is undoubtedly a little more costly than the new Everlast line of super flex hoses and comparable RotoHead torch stuff which approximates the CK stuff, especially because the Everlast assemblies integrate the Dinse/gas connector into the hose, so it's not a separate item like the CK clamshell connector is. But, again, the separated Dinse connector could be a benefit to some.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7fSrTyAwWs&t=3s

Thanks Christian, that's helpful. I seem to have the smaller flexible hose as I have the removable switch that is held on with wire ties. Not sure if the hose is as good as CK, but I'll strip everything off of it and see how it works. Hopefully this will buy me some time in upgrading to the 1525HSF FX.

I received those collets in the mail yesterday! Thank you very much sir, they will be put to good use.

I saw this video playing after the above, I've wondered if this is Mark that does these videos? Sounds like him on the phone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKkbdqI7cw8

Anyway, I think what you'll probably be doing with the stubby lens and a generic 26 Flex torch will be nearly as good and certainly cheaper.

Indeed, I appreciate you pointing that out for me.

I shortened the gas QuickConnect line out to the torch on my CK stuff and did away with the CK compression fitting to the 9mm QuickConnect adapter, with a more elegant solution via a barbed/9mm QuickConnect fitting and a small Oetiker clamp. Everlast sells those too, but they're not needed with an Everlast OEM torch assembly, as theirs don't use a compression fitting-to-9mm adapter.

I think I may want to do the same in the future when I upgrade my torch.

Alan

[christian]

Hey,

All the better then, if it's not a 26 Euro torch.

And if it IS a red colored 26 hose, then it's probably a more flexible 26 hose than was standard OEM from before Everlast improved their hoses, I think.

So yeah, those 1/8" wedge collets are good if you ever have much TIG to do near the 200 amp output, otherwise 3/32" tungsten can probably do everything else, even lap joints on utility knife razor blades.

Thanks Christian, that's helpful. I seem to have the smaller flexible hose as I have the removable switch that is held on with wire ties. Not sure if the hose is as good as CK, but I'll strip everything off of it and see how it works. Hopefully this will buy me some time in upgrading to the 1525HSF FX.