PowerPro 256 kicks out on AC tig

[worntorn]

I purchased this unit in 2011. It's always worked perfectly for all functions. A couple of days ago while welding some 1/8" aluminum at 125 amps +-, the torch shut off.
The overcurrent warning light was on, showing green.
After shutting the machine off for an hour or so I turned it back on. The overcurrent light came on with the welder, amber this time.
After a few seconds the overcurrent light went off. The welder worked fine to finish welding up a motorcycle fuel tank I've been building. This is in .063" Al. , so amps were 70+-.
After finishing the .063", I welded some .125" mounts on. The welder cut out again. Turning power off then restarting brings back normal function, except now the welder will cut out in a few seconds at anything over 70 amps.
DC Tig , DC stick and Plasma all work fine to full power.
Is there a thermal cutout specifically for the AC output?
I'm wondering if the thermal cutout is faulty.
I have contacted Everlast Technical support.
They suggested shipping the welder to them for repair. Shipping and repair could easily cost more than the welder is worth, although I do like this unit a lot.
Just realized this should be in the multi-process section.
I'll look for a delete button
Glen

[christian]

Mark, from Everlast, will probably have some input for you before too long at the forum here.

I'm no tech guy, but while you have the unit on hand, what you can do is open it up and dust off the circuit boards with a clean paintbrush and use some compressed air in a careful manner to clean any metal particles out. I?d also take a magnifying glass and inspect everything that you can. Who knows, you may spot something obvious on a board, and then you might be able to just purchase one to swap into your unit.

I mean, your unit is about 10 years old. So, if you?ve never cleaned it out, this is a good time to poke around in there. And that won?t cost you anything.

Otherwise, if the plasma function and DC welding work well still, maybe a smart move would be to just get an additional, dedicated, single-function AC/DC TIG unit.

[worntorn]

Thanks Christian, I'll try that. It looks surprisingly clean in there but you never know.
Glen

[performance]

The AC side of the inverter sounds like it has had it. You need to talk with the guys over at ext 207.

[worntorn]

Mark, is there a separate AC board that can be replaced? If so, is this part still available?
My thought is that if the board isn't crazy expensive I might purchase one and install it.
Shipping the machine for repair is likely false economy at this point, but a board change might be worth a try.

Glen

[performance]

Yes, there is a separate part for AC. But it would be repaired, not replaced as the components are replaceable on the board on that machine.

[worntorn]

That sounds like a possible option. I could ship the board to the Everlast techie(s) for testing and repair.
Is this the AC board? Left side of machine from front.

[worntorn]

I talked with Everlast extension 207 and verified that the small board on the LH side is the AC board
Couldn't see anything wrong at first then noticed this- looks like something has blasted off into space from here

[christian]

And there it is!

Maybe it's just a little "C" capacitor nodule-looking thing like that "C8" spot.

You could probably get one locally and solder it yourself.

And that could fix it, or it could blow again, if there's something else underlying its failure. But that really risks nothing.

I'm guessing that you'd get lucky by just replacing it, as there seems to be no cascading other components on the board that failed, right?

[worntorn]

No other problems, DC Tig, stick and Plasma work fine to full power.
It would be nice to know the value for the capacitor. There are about 25 capacitors on the board with 3 different values. That info could be hard to get.

[christian]

Does the one right next to where it was give some indication via a number? Is see an O.22 and something else, which doesn't necessarily mean the one next to it is the very same, I suppose.

Otherwise, the Everlast support guys could undoubtedly identify it if you sent them a pic via email, as they have the schematics.

They might even be willing to send you a couple of them for a few bucks.

No other problems, DC Tig, stick and Plasma work fine to full power.
It would be nice to know the value for the capacitor. There are about 25 capacitors on the board with 3 different values. That info could be hard to get.

[worntorn]

A small local electronics store had a replacement capacitor. The owner was able to read the label at that location on the board then look up the part. 484 nanofarads I recall
I soldered the new item in and tried the machine.
No luck, it's still the same. The blown part is likely a symptom, not the disease.

Glen

[christian]

Oh well, I was hoping you'd get extra lucky that way.