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Thread: Super wide etching on Aluminum!

  1. Default Super wide etching on Aluminum!

    This was a reply to a phone conversation with mark, about an issue I'm seeing but please feel free to comment if you have had a similar one, or new suggestion. ( Please first read my "hello" in the Introduce yourself column, just to orient yourself with my background in TIG, I'm not a newby .... 30 years or so, just want to save everyones time from having to try to cover basics. I really Love the machine but want to figure this issue out. ) Thx

    Hello Mark, again thank you for your time on a saturday afternoon. Well, sunday i went to the shop and burned thru half of a 125 bottle of argon! ....... layed down some aluminum for sure. Tried all kinds of things today. Here's kind of a summary of what i was seeing or finding -

    First, I tried two different brands of 2% thoriated, purchased WELL apart from each other time wise. Sharpening to a point, on my good ole dedicated belt sander, also on a dedicated fine ginding wheel ( properly ground long ways ). Tried any type point imaginable, long short, truncated etc. Arc stability was essentially the same for each, and experienced no weld impurity issues ( of course we're talking non specified, non crit welds here ..... just clean good looking shiny beads on some various coupons i made from stock on hand ). Now regarding the tungsten splitting issue - Both of the batches of thoriated tungsten began to develope "cauliflower" texturing as miller welding describes it, or splitting as you call it, either way at as low as 80 amps! Mterial thickness 3/32 - 1/8 or so. Tried different cups, in fact hooked up an entirely different brand new torch. With ac balance at 0, or full counter clockwise, up to the point at which it would burn the tunsten up, and anywhere in between. Pulsing off thru out, and started with ac freq. at about 60-80 hrtz. Nothing i could do or change would prevent the tungsten from becoming jagged cauliflower like once i hit 80 amps or so. ( I would definately not consider that overheating for a 3/32 electrode with balance at 0!! ). In fact according to miller welding's site, inverters should allow you to use a SMALLER tungsten for a given amerage, and they state that 200 amps is not a problem for a 3/32 thoriated! - I could still make very nice looking beads in spite of the ragged tungsten even tho the stability was definately effected somewhat.

    The WIDE etching issue remains. In fact adjusting the balance up to say 9 to 10:00, or more, seems to have little or no effect on the width of etching along either side of the weld ( 1/4 - 3/8 in on each side of the bead! ). This does appear to convince me that it "may" not be a balance issue as you stated, UNLESS it is not going as low as the 10% as stated in the specs, with the knob full counter clockwise, just a thought ( imagine if you will the ACTUAL starting point of the range of EN is say 40-50%, even then the etching should be waay closer to the weld footprint ) Again just thinking out loud here, but the taper of that potentiometer does seem to VERY rapidly favor EP range! At 12:00 I'd bet on a scope you'd be seeing 70% EP, as from there up the tungsten overheats almost instantly at quite low amperage. Keeping in mind most fixed balance squarewave machines run in the 50 -60% range for cleaning purposes. )

    The other attributes of ac balance seem to be in line with what you'd expect to see, ie wider bead, as i increase the balance knob clock wise, BUT there seems to be little or no change until reaching 9:00 - 10:00 on the knob, then it rapidly goes to tungsten melt down past noon. Once again the taper seems a little odd. This does seem to be peculiar to this machine as WELL as the last one i had with the defective freq, potentiometer (frozen thru a portion of it's range - the second 250ex to have that problem, the first having the same issue but with the balance knob, as well the first machine died within 30 minutes of use. HF stuck on and no arc initiation possible, no matter what i tried. Probably dropped during shipping? This is the THIRD machine, and came with a small dent in the side, numerous superficial scuffs and marr's about the face and a small crack in the face surround!). As far as the etching I can run a bead from my Lincoln Squarewave tig right next to it and the etching footprint barely exceeds the weld footprint (1/16 in and less if i want.) If that is not an ac balance issue, then I am truly perplexed as i have tried everything i can think of, Argon pressure changes, air leaks, back cap changes, collet body, tungsten tips, grinding, complete torch change out etc. I had no ceriated, Lan, Zirc, on hand at the time but i will try some others soon.

    In the end after about 5 hours of various combinations, i could not reduce the UGLY white etching footprint, ...... even while my welds were coming out beautifully, so shiny they looked like polished silver!! Some of the prettiest looking beads ive ever seen, like liquid silver (with proper heat and travel speed! ) Just that damn wide area along each side of the weld that ruins it! NOW, the interesting find ....... apparently thoriated does not like LOWER frequency AC, on the 250EX machine ..... when i ran it up to 2:00 ( 120-140 htz? ) The tungsten just kind of found a nice little blunt point or after a time MAYBE a small ball, but resisted splitting up to at least the area of 125+ amps. I did not have the time to establish a point at which the cauliflower splitting begins, but i will in the near future. Some difficulty occassionaly starting the arc tho at the high a/c frequency setting, but worth the trade off in my opinion to eliminate the splitting. There are things that i like sometimes about the old 60 htz wave, depending on the job, nice soft arc, wide buttery bead, etc. So it would be nice to be able to utilize that. But even so, i would sacrifice that for the excellent welds the machine is capable of if it wasn't for this etching issue. I have to wire brush the area precisely along the weld but always hit some of it ruining the appearance, and then i have a nasty wire brush on my piece. ( keep in mind I'm speaking of items that require appearance grade welds like sheet metal intakes, Turbo routing etc. ) You can see it as soon as i initiate the arc, and wet in the puddle. You can see the width of it, but it would be hard to put into words the physical look of it, ..... just a kind of wild electrical scattering on the surface of the metal along the perimiter of each side of the weld. Keep in mind that the arc cone is nicely focused, IS NOT wandering, just a very steady straight travel, tungsten height, speed, etc. that years of TIG welding has allowed me to perform. I will post some pic's as soon as i can to provide some visuals, matched with material thickness, and machine settings, along with some comparisons from my Lincoln squarewave on the same material. Any additional ideas info are appreciated in advance.

    Sincerely, Lou
    Last edited by trackmaster; 07-28-2010 at 04:53 AM.

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    Oh yes one more thing, Listen I get the price point savings that these machines offer over a 3 or 4 thousand dollar more Blue or Red. I really want to see Everlast really take hold of an so far missing middle ground in the US market for advanced machines. And understand the difficulties involved with having units built to spec in china, and having test and inspect each one. As well, i understand shipping damage DOES happen. BUT, .... i have to admit i am somewhat dissapointed, dismayed, and frustrated. I am on my 3rd 250EX! After pre-paying waited a month and a half before recieving it.

    Machine #1. Died in the first 30 minutes or so of use. The HF was stuck on when selcted to HF, and no arc could be intiated. No points issues or any wiring checking could solve that one. Yes perhaps due to shipping damage, although the outer box did not show it. But on that machine the A/C balance knob (potetiometer) was badly bound up thru a major portion of it's range. You would think that would be at it's most basic level an easy catch to check before shipping.

    Machine #2, waited another 10 or more days for it to arrive after calling in, and to my utter dismay, this time the A/C frequency pot was firmly bound up thru a major portion of it's range!! I offered to just solder in a replacement pot myself after speaking with tech and sales support, or even the possibility of a whole new front panel. But I dicovered on that #2 machine that the Aluminum welds were having this super wide etching, even with the balance control set to zero! Really REALLY hard to polish out on a marine application, ( a boating Wake boarding tower structure ). In fact i never could buff out the etching completely, ... would've had to get into some fine grit sanding etc. I discussed with tech support, the possibilty of a A/C balance control issue, possibly a wrong value pot installed was brought up as a possibility? etc ..... SO, i was told that i would just be sent out a whole new machine, ..... from a batch 10 days out, plus another week of shipping.

    Machine #3, recieved it, boxing looked fine. Upon initial visual inspection was Simply stunned if not angered at this point, to find a well marred up front panel!!! In fact i thought maybe a used or refurbished one? With a small crack starting on the face at the right side of the upper most vent traveling to the edge and almost wrapping around to the side. As well a small dent in the sheet metal on the left side at the bottom of the venting slots. OK ya know, kinda small stuff, superficial ...... but i am still just kind of, well, . whatever. The face surround literally looks used. I dont really care about any of that (sad but true) if the machine functions 100%. Happily i found that all of the knobs work!!! WOW! Trust me i was not holding my breath. All of the functions of the Pulsing work brilliantly, A/C freq. etc. Welds VERY nicely on DC Straight polarity, And the actual BEAD ITSELF quality on aluminum with A/C is at times stunning, ....... EXCEPT for the affore mentioned post of mine about the super wide etching. I am commited to hopefully finding the way to reduce this to a usable level, ( again for visual quality work ) As i really really want to love this machine and company. I think i have been quite tolerant seeing as this started in April i think? AM I perhaps just so suuuper unlucky?! ...... BTW, everyone at everlast has been very gracious and attentive to my issues, in spite of everything else happening, props to them for that.
    Last edited by trackmaster; 07-26-2010 at 11:38 PM.

  3. #3

    Default AC balancing

    Similar issues with fine tuning the AC process on thinner material. Etching a little wider than I like, but not critical for my applications. See "Aluminum Catch Cans" under projects for a picture. As you said, the AC balance and AC frequency knobs do not seem to be linear or range from 10 to 90 %. So adjustments are a learning process.

    Also had problem with the tungsten tips - spitting. You called it cauliflowering, probably a better descriptions. After seeing tungsten testing on WeldingTipsandTrick.com, I tried Thoraited and 2% Lanthanated, (3/32, fine grind - about 60 degrees, 0.050" flat point, @ 82amps). Hands down, the 2% Lanthanated worked the best in this AC application, thoraited was second, and pure and rare earth were poor (that is all I had to test with).

    I had been using a 250 DX Syncowave, but did not like the lack of frequency adjustment and wanted to reduce the width of my beads. The 250 ex does let me do that, but still working on the other fine adjustments. Please share what you learn as you go.

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    Hey thanx for the reply dlong! I was about to say " Bueller ..... Bueller ..... anyone? " Ha! Anyway i appreciate the input about the tungsten choice. Yep, bout the same point grind I've chosen as well, Little bit of sturdyness for the tip seems to help as the amperage goes up.

    Today i got a hold of a 2%- Ceriated 3/32, and found it to hold up MUCH better than the thoriated, speaking about ac aluminum of course, just ended up after a bit making a nice tiny ball at the end of the point, actually more just rounded off the point a little as it did not really exceed by much at all the original .050 or so tip. Worked up at around 125 amps and the tip hung in with out splitting or whatever we'll call it. Now this was all done at a/c balance at 10% ( full counter clockwise ). The ceriated didn't seem to mind lower freq settings (60 htz approx.) - unlike the thoriated which imediately got jagged. This i thought was very cool, as once again there are times that a big wide soft arc is useful. Arc starting seemed just fine as well.

    The etching still remains an issue for me, it was "maybe" slightly better with ceriated. And i agree wit ya "D" that in many instances it is not an issue, only the weld quality itself. I got heaps of praise for this machine I'll get to later but i am still wanting to get to the bottom of, or more aptly find a way to reduce the etching footprint! It still just seems to me that the control is not getting to the 90% electrode negative (10% setting), as advertised. I just don't know, ..... but I also just don't know any other variables that could be causing it other than something inherent to the circuitry design.

    As far as the Balance control itself, so far on this machine, it is somewhat like T!T's on a bull for me. Sorry, ... but unless welding VERY thin aluminum sheet, i so far, can't see ever moving it from full CCW, there just SEEMS to be plenty of cleaning leaving it right there! Please speak up if ya own a 250EX and your able to get the etching right down to just along the bead! Or if you are seeing the same thing, ..... a wide swath along each side of your bead. - thx, weld on Jimi, weld on!

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    Took some sample pic's and as soon as i figure out how to post them i will. Nothing fancy, just some 2 or 3 inch bead samples to illustrate what I'm seeing.

    Except for the "E" word thing and some QC issues, i want to say some positives about the 250! The ability of the unit to create fantastic welds is on par with or surpasses anything ive had the pleasure of using! My personal fave and benchmark machine is the venerable old Linde UCC 305! What a machine, ..... man back in the day when i was really good, i could do anything with that machine! .010 and less thickness, ... no problem. Arc stability like ya wouldn't believe. But i digress, .... anyway the 250ex has alot of those qualities!! Don't know yet if it it'll hold on down that low, but i don't do that stuff anymore anyway, BUT it reminds me of it right away! Plus it'll do things the ole Linde simply can't.

    The ac freq. control is plain awesome, I can't believe how fast you can actually travel on aluminum with the freq up high! Un real! Just boogies. Mig speed. In fact i can travel so fast the bead shape actually tales on that characteristic V shape to it that you'll see in nicely done spool gun welds! Very cool! As well on DC, as tips and tricks so aptly states, turning the Pulse control up really DOES make the weld "stick" where you put it. Just plain reduces that runny puddle tendency of ferrous metals!

    I'll give away an old trade secret, that is really nothing in truth, but back in the 70's when i welded at a company called Trackmaster, in the San Fernando valley, southern Cal, ( famous for Flat track harley racing frames ) we had a signature weld style that as far as i know was started by Lynn Kasten of Red Line/Trackmaster fame. It was a technique of manual pulsing with the pedal while tigging chromoly frames. WIDE pulsing ...... man everyones feet were working like crazy. A little more to it that I'll reserve, but anyway we all took up that style and brought it to the Red Line BMX line which we had the contract for. Anyway, the point is that not just any machine can do it like the Lindes we used! The old Miller Dial arc 250's could come kinda close, but no cigar. But the Everlast 250 to my great pleasure has that quality about it to take on for the most part the "Trackmaster" Bead!
    Can't quite get there with my Lincoln SQ wave, Miller Syncro etc. So, ... my hats off to a machine that is great now, but maybe with some tweaks could be phenomenal!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Default

    I am not able to completely get rid of the etched zone on aluminum with my Super200P, but didn't think it was a problem, I thought maybe that's just how an inverter running at 20% DCEP was supposed to work.

    Now I have noticed that my pulse frequency knob on same machine (Super200P) seems to have a super sluggish change at the lower end of the knob travel and also in the middle, and a super sensitive adjustment at the very high end, right off the max. If I crank it all the way up I can get a consistent relatively high frequency "hum" (supposed to be 300 Hz from the specs) but I wouldn't be able to get 150 Hz consistently, because the knob is too sensisitve right off the max and would probably drop way below that. Even if I did get 150Hz once, I could probably not find it again easily, so it's not practical for me to really use it. Prior to reading your post on this topic trackmaster, I've also thought that maybe the pot used was the incorrect or at least a "sub optimal" application of its taper (audio taper instead of linear taper, or vice versa, etc.)

    Never thought there was any problem with the balance though. Seems like it works pretty linearly to me, based on how readily the tungsten melts, and how much current I need to use to get a given size puddle. But then again this is also my first AC TIG welder I've owned or used, so I don't have experience of other TIG machines to compare it to.

    I do find the arc to be pretty useful for aluminum when cranked all the way to the "minimum cleaning" setting, though. At least if keeping a sharp tungsten and focusing the heat is the goal, (which it is most often when welding aluminum for me.) I've only ever used a cleaning setting at 50% or above when I was welding pop cans together, when I wanted to take some heat off the work intentionally. I set it up to about 70% to take some heat off the work (And yes it did ball up that .040" lanthanated tungsten of mine amazingly quick!) So quick I will admit it didn't take me much time at all to revert to the 50% setting. So the 50% setting is the highest I've found that I was able and actually wanted to use.
    Last edited by jakeru; 07-29-2010 at 08:00 AM.

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    I do find the arc to be pretty useful for aluminum when cranked all the way to the "minimum cleaning" setting, though. At least if keeping a sharp tungsten and focusing the heat is the goal, (which it is most often when welding aluminum for me.) I've only ever used a cleaning setting at 50% or above when I was welding pop cans together, when I wanted to take some heat off the work intentionally. I set it up to about 70% to take some heat off the work (And yes it did ball up that .040" lanthanated tungsten of mine amazingly quick!) So quick I will admit it didn't take me much time at all to revert to the 50% setting. So the 50% setting is the highest I've found that I was able and actually wanted to use.
    If I go over 65% (3 o'clock) indicated on my 225lx I ball and melt faster than I can type this. I want to play around with the EN side of the balance control. I ran out of scrap to practice on.

    I ordered a gas lens cup and collect in 1/16 and 3/32 to try out. A Pyrex cup is coming also.

  8. Default

    Lou,

    I see the same wide etch on my 250EX as well.

    I measured the AC balance range on my 250EX using an oscilloscope and found that the control range is from 27.1% DCEP (fully counterclockwise) to 71.0% DCEP (fully clockwise). This is the reason you are not able to get rid of the etching completely. You need to be in the 10% to 15% DCEP range to get the small etch you are looking for.

    The spec sheet of the 250EX indicates that the balance range is form 10% to 90% and that all the other models are 30% to 70%. I have attached a picture of the table from the user manual.

    It would be good if Everlast could clarify the AC balance range of the 250EX.


    Max
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    Last edited by maxspeedman; 07-31-2010 at 10:18 PM. Reason: clarification

  9. #9

    Default ac balance

    I was going for the O scope, but you beat me to it. Thanks for the input. It clearly explains the etching issue with the 250 ex.

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    Excellent info guy's, Thanx max for the initiative and ability to hook it up to a scope! Maybe technical or a rep from engineering can clear up the discrepancy? Seems specs may be same as the 200 - 225lx? Still seems that at 30% or so the etching would not be quite this wide? I dont know enough electrical engineering to know what else could be affecting or causing it, but sounds like you are on the right track.

    Man I am really digging this machine in just about every other respect! Just welded some mild steel tubing about 12mm O.D. with wall thickness of .015
    Ceriated ground to long fine point for low amp arc starting and the stability was first class!! A few spots were less than ideal fit up and i was still able keep from losing it. If they can come up with a fix or mod on this etching issue i think the machine will be unbeatable! And really be a giant killer, ie Thermal Arc, Miller, Lincoln.

  11. #11

    Default

    Since Lou first reported this problem, it has become clear that it is not an operator issue in all circumstances. We have been investigating it, gleaning information from our customers, isolating possible causes, and making reports to the factory etc. I have refrained from posting here until we had more information to go on...Not that we weren't concerned, but that it wouldn't do any good until we had some idea of the answer.

    So, here it is:

    We have isolated at least 37 possible units according to serial numbers that were assembled with the wrong board in it that have the incorrect values in them. Specifically these were boards from the 225LX not intended for the 250EX. These appear to have been assembled by one employee added to increase production at the new facilities when it opens. This has been identified as the problem and the problem traced to what seems to be a single assembly point. It does not appear to affect all EX's.

    Here's the deal:

    The boards are not defective per se. But they do not fully meet the 250EX specs. They only have the AC balance adjustment values of the 225LX. Other welding functions are have not been affected and the units otherwise function normally. Other than the cleaning width percentage, they are up to full welding capability.

    The boards are pretty much plug and play. We can send out boards for replacement as soon as the factory has produced them and expressed them in. Return of the units should not be necessary. It should not be a long process, but it won't be immediate either. Some of you may choose to keep the boards in your unit, which is your choice, and not a problem if you are satisfied with your product. Its not a "mandatory recall". It does not in anyway appear to affect functionality or stability of the welder platform, nor compromise safety. Its a service campaign that will be addressed on a customer by customer basis, should someone wish to exchange the board. At this time we do not see that it has affected all units in the EX line.

    My personal recommendation is that if you need the extra AC balance control, contact the sales office and work out the details of the replacement. If not and your unit is stable, the 30-70% cleaning width that is in some of the EX units, will be satisfactory for most welding situations, and if you are happy, keep it as it is. We realize customers have paid for the performance feature of the EX, so you do have a right for the full range...on the other hand, if you are satisfied, then there is no need for replacing the board. We will work on replacing existing stock inventories ASAP as well.

    We regret any inconvenience this has caused, but we are working to resolve the situation in a quick and timely manner. As tech representatives, we have asked customers to verify many aspects of their welding conditions before determining that the units have problems. It is part of our diagnosis process and in no way have we felt the issue was not happening. We have to be cautious and careful, as many tech calls are related to OE and not the units. But the forum here has done its job and the communication between customers and Everlast has been invaluable to addressing the problem directly with the factory. We appreciate your understanding and hope that we can resolve this issue to meet the customer's expectations.

    Serial numbers of units affected will be forthcoming as soon as the factory provides the information on the exact units. However, in the mean time if you feel you have an issue, contact Everlast sales with the serial number found on the back of your unit so we can verify the problem and get your problem corrected quickly.
    Last edited by performance; 08-03-2010 at 06:42 AM.

  12. #12

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    1. 18460654 11. 18460144 22. 18460006 33. 18460349
    2. 18460475 12. 18460587 23. 18460363 34. 18460454
    3. 18460486 13. 18460332 24. 18460697 35. Costumer called in
    4. 18460483 14. 18460473 25. 18460889 36. Costumer called in
    5. 18460697 15. 18460376 26. 18460411 37. Costumer called in
    5. 18460698 16. 18460414 27, 18460111
    6. 18460677 17. 18460002 28. 18460133
    7. 18460641 18. 18460036 29. 18460154
    8. 18460544 19. 18460467 30. 18460641
    9. 18460432 20. 18460019 31. 18460252
    10.18460399 21. 18460022 32. 18460739


    This list for PowerTig's 250EX that were sold in USA and have a wrong board installed.
    All those units were assembled by the same person. So it was easy to trace it.
    Last edited by Oleg; 08-04-2010 at 05:49 AM.
    Oleg Gladshteyn
    Phone: 650 588 8082 / 877 755 WELD
    Cell: 415 613 6664 ONLY IF YOU REALLY NEED IT
    Email: oleg@everlastwelders.com
    Website www.everlastgenerators.com

    www.linkedin.com/pub/oleg-gladshteyn/48/b08/875

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    Thank you Mark, .... First class post!!! One of the reasons I chose to purchase from everlast was from researching the companies response to various customer issues prior to purchase. This cannot be over stressed as there are so many company's out there that once you by it's, "cricket, cricket" as far as support. Even if one is not particularly satified in a particular situation, the fact that the effort to respond and address has been made is all the difference. That fact alone told me that Everlast is in the "game" to stay, and let me feel better about sending of my $$ in tight economic times. The 250EX is an amazing welder period! And considering the price point value, ..... well nough said. Can it be improved? Sure, but i have seen in a very short period of time that, the company is dedicated to that end, and thats good enough for me. I love to root for the underdog, but will also not hold back any critisizem (spelling? ha) I think i have demonstrated that already for any wondering where are the negative reviews, I call it as i see it, and while there have been some quality control issues, so far everyone at Everlast has been a CLASS ACT!! And i have no doubt that any issue will be handled in a prompt and professional manner.

    Thanx to all, Lou (Trackmaster)

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    Hey Trackmaster let me know if the new board works for you. I have a 250ex and it does not fall under any of the listed serial numbers and I have to have my machine balance turned all the way down and I still get a really wide etching effect. I have the same problem with the balance that once it goes any higher than about 10:00, my tungsten just disintegrates. Let me know how it goes.

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    I will Dis, ..... looking forward to seeing how the extra 20% negative electrode fairs, in regard to the etching. It's seriously my ONLY complaint with the unit. It just welds beautifuly in just about every other respect! And again what a GREAT value. Very close to being a giant killer!

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    It is a great machine. Ive had mine for a couple of months a yeas the machine can lay down beautiful welds. The only problem i really had with the machine were the unorthodox fittings on the water cooler so i bought some 5/8"-18 LH fittings for a coolmate and replaced them with those so I can use my other torches interchangeably on the machine. I also rewired an old ThermalDyn foot pedal because i just couldnt get used to the pedal that came with the machine. Thats all minor in comparison to how well the machine performs.

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    Yeah, really reaaly good arc stability! A little pre flow, and the arc starts just beautifully! No pre, and it's a bit forceful of a start. Just FYI for someone just starting out. Or ya can just hit the pedal with the torch away from the work piece and use enough post flow to give ya time to get into position and start the arc before the post flow stops again, but again thats one thing pre flow is there for, so use it, ha!

    I do have to say I may have a bit of trepidation whether or not the new board with the additional 20% or so Electrode negative capability, will significantly affect the etching (cleaning) width. It just seems to me that even at 30-ish EP, that it should be much narrower. Based on other welders that are auto and of much less range anyway, and adjustable balance machines that are limited to about 30-90. On either of them i can achieve a much narrower etch path, .... ?? Oh well, fingers crossed and hoping for the best!!

  18. #18

    Default

    Trackmaster,

    Never had any complaints before this issue...I have had one myself and haven't had that issue. As someone else said....you have to get below 30% to get rid of the etching for most welders.

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    As always Mark I take your word as a welding authority, and don't doubt what you say. But just so I am clear, you are saying that your (past or present) 250 does or did not have consistantly wide etching such that if you combined both sides, they would be wider than the weld bead itself?

  20. #20

    Default

    Trackmaster...

    Take a look here....

    http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...-settings.html

    This is a current series unit. Of course watch the whole series and you'll see a lot more.

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